How'd it go today?

Routine day. Boltholes on a bridge, and some road and erosion/sediment control on another job. I got under the truck today to check the fluids. Only thing left is the rear axle. Best I can tell, the transmission looked fine. Dipstick is a huge PITA to get to. It's right on the transmission, and you have to get it from underneath. Had to free it up with Pblaster. Transfer case took 12oz of fluid. I think that's where the smell's coming from.

Two questions...

How empty is empty on a transfer case? That 12oz I added is 25% of the total capacity. When does damage start?

Is there anything I can do about rust underneath that's easy? It has a shocking amount of rust for an 8 year old vehicle. It isn't nearly as bad as the Frontier. I don't see any potential frame failures, but it's still bad. I used to think MD cars got rusty. I clearly didn't know what rust was after seeing PA/NJ vehicles. Is there any kind of quicky spray, or oil that can be added to rusty metal to help it in any way?
 
Reading about Fluid Film, and I think I'm sold. I've been wanting something for the chipper also. Rust isn't too bad on that, but it's only gonna get worse. It would be nice to slow it down.
 
From their page...

FLUID FILM® is formulated from specially processed wool-wax, highly refined petroleum oils and selected agents to provide corrosion control, penetration, metal wetting and water displacement. The long lasting product contains no solvents, will not dry out and will penetrate to the base of all metals, providing corrosion protection from both natural and industrial atmospheres. Heavily corroded and/or frozen parts such as nuts, bolts, shafts, etc. that would normally be damaged during maintenance, can be salvaged by applying FLUID FILM®

 
Yea, my quick reading over the last hour or so says to apply it once a year, and that it washes off too fast in areas like wheelwells. Also said not to get it on exhaust components cause it stinks bad as it burns off.
 
The old ported 026 was acting up. It's due for a rebuild, so I'm trying to use up the last of the chains without buying a bar and rim, because I'm not going to rebuild the low end, and it could fail at any time. It was binding up and preferring to cut crooked. I was wondering what would have dulled the chain, but it still cut fast when it would. It rapidly deteriorated until I swapped it for the slow quiet saw. Later I saw at least 8 teeth broke off. I was wondering when that would happen.
 
The old ported 026 was acting up. It's due for a rebuild, so I'm trying to use up the last of the chains without buying a bar and rim, because I'm not going to rebuild the low end, and it could fail at any time. It was binding up and preferring to cut crooked. I was wondering what would have dulled the chain, but it still cut fast when it would. It rapidly deteriorated until I swapped it for the slow quiet saw. Later I saw at least 8 teeth broke off. I was wondering when that would happen.
Just set it on a wooden raft, douse with diesel and two stroke, and let slip a flaming arrow. It’s had a good run give it the peace it deserves.
 
Well, I ordered the Fluid Film. We'll see how it goes. I also got a box of Oregon 11/64" files. That's waaay more than I need, and I've heard people say Oregon files are shit, but I'm not sure I believe it. They're almost certainly made by Vallorbe in Switzerland, same as Stihl files, and Stihl files are my favorite, so I got two trial items coming. Just have to douche the underside of the truck to get ready for the treatment. I might do that tomorrow.
 
Just set it on a wooden raft, douse with diesel and two stroke, and let slip a flaming arrow. It’s had a good run give it the peace it deserves.
The problem is it still runs so good. The crank case paint is bubbling up and will eventually let loose. I thought the bar was worn out at first seeing how it's the original bar. The other saw was a waste of time in comparison. It felt like less than half as fast.
 
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