ruel
TreeHouser
I think Nick Arrya has something about invisible lock stitching. Basically you do the stitches where the cover strands "x" or in between strands. That way the stitching lays below the outer cover, no shredding
To dress the end of a cut rope, I first wrap it tightly with a little bit of masking tape. I use the blue painter's tape (less glue). Cut the rope in the middle of the tape with a razor knife. Then I melt the end of the rope with fire (a cigarette lighter). Smooth off any rough edges with the bottom of the lighter, then remove the tape. The result is a nice finished end that will not unravel.The electric tape doesn't stay long. It's too thin and fragile. A few rubs on the bark and it's teared away. But it leaves its messy gum on the rope as a reminder of why you shouldn't use that. At the opposite, the paracord makes too thick of a layer. It will catch on the bark and be slided away. The heavy thermo retractable sleeve can sustain the abuse, but it seems that only the hotmelt glued version of it is able to stay in place.
I tried the first two, but not the last pne.
Icetail and Tenex are the same construction but different material. Icetail will scorch and char because it’s technora (I think) Tenex will melt, it’s polyester.Hello, everyone I'm new around these parts and I just did my first splice. I was sent some cordage from a fellow tree houser, thank you if you read this you know who you are. Now I was told that this was some 5/16 tenex after doing some research after I made the splice I think it is some ice tail. Samson at least currently doesn't make tenet in this color. I made the splice following the samson class 1 12 strand eye to eye instructions. I started with 73 inches and got a 30 1/2 inch eye to eye. I was shooting for a 30 e2e. For my first time I was stoked that my black Magik math worked.in the samson pdf they say a 3/8 inch line at 80 inches will produce a 33inch e2e. I minus 6 for 3 inch on each side minus 1 inch for rope difference
I may have freestyled it a little, meaning that on the second side brummel on the second one I did the inside out trick since I didn't think it would be possible to pass the whole other end threw the hole. And I tapered the end more than the 3 1/2 inches they suggest. But I think a total taper of 8 inches would probably be best since that is how long they over lap in the rope.
Anyways looking at my master piece I found that on one of the first brummel of the eye instead of it being perfectly in the middle I was one strand off. Will that make the e2e significantly weaker?
I plan on trying this out as progress capture on a 5 to 1. Just messing around with it I tied a handfull of friction hitches and test to 100lb ish and all the ones that I normally use all bit great.
I also plan to try to stich lock the brummel but I'm waiting on supplys.
Thanks for your time
And conctructive criticism
I do that too for the rope's cuts. But my post was about protecting the lockstitch of the eye splice to avoid destroying it by rubbing on the bark.To dress the end of a cut rope, I first wrap it tightly with a little bit of masking tape. I use the blue painter's tape (less glue). Cut the rope in the middle of the tape with a razor knife. Then I melt the end of the rope with fire (a cigarette lighter). Smooth off any rough edges with the bottom of the lighter, then remove the tape. The result is a nice finished end that will not unravel.
I used to do the whipping on my splices years ago but they kept getting xhewed up by tree bark. Then I went to 'hidden' lock stitches and no more issues.I do that too for the rope's cuts. But my post was about protecting the lockstitch of the eye splice to avoid destroying it by rubbing on the bark.