Mesquite
Treehouser
Brocky can you please, give an example of a hitch cord that the TuckBury splice could be used?
Jonny
Treehouser
True Blue is a solid braid 12 strand. Also Arborplex and Yale Buzzline and a few others. Maybe it’s do-able but wouldn’t be easy like hollow braid 12s.
Nice light rigging line though, generally pretty stretchy, so they’re kinda forgiving with energy absorption.
Nice light rigging line though, generally pretty stretchy, so they’re kinda forgiving with energy absorption.
As Jonny said probably economics, plus takes some skill to keep the twist in the strands so only the blue shows, this is the last one I did, the first few were whiter and longer, still hadn’t come up with better solution for the ends.
Most of the cords used have a hollow braid core, Samson says it is only for dyneema, but that is the slipperiest, I’ve done Vectran and technora with the same bury lengths, which tested very good also.
The cord on left is a 6mm technora solid braid, the ends were covered by whipping here, as well as the blue whipping to hid the ugly joining. Samson’s new instruction fixes this. The next cord is Bailout core,16 strand hollow braid where I buried the ends, but should have done it closer to where they exit. The cord on the right is Bailout with cover, same splice. It’s easier to milk the cover back over than locked brummels also.
Most of the cords used have a hollow braid core, Samson says it is only for dyneema, but that is the slipperiest, I’ve done Vectran and technora with the same bury lengths, which tested very good also.
The cord on left is a 6mm technora solid braid, the ends were covered by whipping here, as well as the blue whipping to hid the ugly joining. Samson’s new instruction fixes this. The next cord is Bailout core,16 strand hollow braid where I buried the ends, but should have done it closer to where they exit. The cord on the right is Bailout with cover, same splice. It’s easier to milk the cover back over than locked brummels also.
Mesquite
Treehouser
On the blue, is that heat shrink on the tips?
How much weight do you think you have put on the blue one?
Have you been using the brown ones as hitch cord?
How much weight do you think you have put on the blue one?
Have you been using the brown ones as hitch cord?
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The True Blue does have the thin rubber like shrink tube, but I’m in the process of burying them into the rope.
Never tested them, another variation of tucking tested 119% of the ropes break strength. A tuck-bury I had tested only lost one and a half percent of it strength. Instead of pairing the strands, they alternately get tucked down the rope.
The hitch cord on left has alternating tucks, not very strong itself, not used much. The Bailouts are strong and are flexible for good biting. I didn’t bury the ends right away on coverless one, went over a strand first, and they stick out if bent, easy to snag. I’ll probably have it tested to compare it with a locked brummels I’ve had tested.
Never tested them, another variation of tucking tested 119% of the ropes break strength. A tuck-bury I had tested only lost one and a half percent of it strength. Instead of pairing the strands, they alternately get tucked down the rope.
The hitch cord on left has alternating tucks, not very strong itself, not used much. The Bailouts are strong and are flexible for good biting. I didn’t bury the ends right away on coverless one, went over a strand first, and they stick out if bent, easy to snag. I’ll probably have it tested to compare it with a locked brummels I’ve had tested.
Mesquite
Treehouser
How are you guys finishing the second side of an e2e, when you do the lock brummel splice? How do you get the standing end through with an eye on it?
Marc-Antoine
TreeHouser
Look at that:
Locking brummel using one end of the rope
I figure everyone but me has seen this but I find it may be useful someday. I'll bookmark it on here so I can find it again.
www.masterblasterhome.com
Mesquite
Treehouser
ruel
TreeHouser
Nice, I love a soft shackle. What you going to Use that for?
Mesquite
Treehouser
Im not 100% sure. Im have been thinking of trying to attach pulleys or the like to something.
If i would put a chafe sleeve on it, would the rope on rope rubbing still be an issue? Like if i was using and whoopie or a loopie with a chafe sleeve on it and a chafe sleeve on the soft shackle would there be an issue?
If i would put a chafe sleeve on it, would the rope on rope rubbing still be an issue? Like if i was using and whoopie or a loopie with a chafe sleeve on it and a chafe sleeve on the soft shackle would there be an issue?
ruel
TreeHouser
That should be fine as is
SkwerI
Treehouser
Rope on rope rubbing would need to be severe to cause any concern. Like your lifeline trapped under a lowering line with a 1000 lb limb and the groundie is burning it to the ground to keep from shaking you out of the tree. The rubbing you are talking about wouldn't even be noticable when you pulled your rope out of the tree.
Mesquite
Treehouser
I just like to double check things. Thank you guys for the quick replys I started with 5 ft of 3/8 tenex and got 4 1/2 inch on the inside of the circle of the shackle.
I followed this video. It was easier to tie when he demonstrates the first time. When he was going over what not to do I would catch up with making my knot so by the time I was ready he would go on to the next section.
I followed this video. It was easier to tie when he demonstrates the first time. When he was going over what not to do I would catch up with making my knot so by the time I was ready he would go on to the next section.
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Mesquite
Treehouser
what splicing tool do you recommend using to help with pulling the core and or jacket through the jacket when making an eye with double braid or kernmantle? i have only spliced a kernmantle eye once and it was a complete nightmare because everything was so tight, i eventually got it but that was when i realized all my fids i had where for 12 strand or similar type of splicing. i would like to try anything on the cheaper side if possible, i know the wand is awesome but , before i spend that kind of loot i want to make sure that i am going to stick with splicing these construction of my own ropes.
SkwerI
Treehouser
I bought one of those wands and tried splicing 16 strand single core lifeline (Arbormaster). The splicing tool ended up in a mangled pile on the floor and I was out over $100. I went back to using a bent coat hanger wire, and I'm still using the exact same coat hanger wire today 15 years later. That was also that last time I tried splicing Arbormaster. Now I stick to double braids.
Mesquite
Treehouser
Marc-Antoine
TreeHouser
No, it's new to me. But It seems that putting a knot in a splice defeat two main purposes of the splicing principle: streamling and retaining most of the rope's strength (if not all).
Mesquite
Treehouser
I wish I remembered where I found that picture, knowing the context of using it may help understand the splice
flushcut
TreeHouser
Looks interesting nonetheless.
Mesquite
Treehouser
First off the splices in the photos are for demonstration purposes only. You will see that the splices in the pictures are not locking brummels. Do you call it just a brummel splice? Its one side of the rope going back and forth through the other side. I didn't have access to the other side of the rope and I just did the splices for the pictures. For the question at hand take into consideration that I want to know, if it will make any difference, The strength for a locked brummel splice.
The question, is one splice stronger than the other?
In the first pic you will see that the rope enters the rope, at 90 and goes straight through the rope and each consecutive pass through the rope do the same. I understand this way to be the standard.
In the second pic and what I would think could be stronger is when the rope enters instead of going straight through the other side going down in the center 2 or 3 picks before exiting the rope on the opposite side.
As you can see it looks smoother of a transition and it should pull on the rope fibers more evenly.
How many locked brummels could you do before it would not help the splices strength? Do ultra slings have three passes?
What are your thoughts?
The question, is one splice stronger than the other?
In the first pic you will see that the rope enters the rope, at 90 and goes straight through the rope and each consecutive pass through the rope do the same. I understand this way to be the standard.
In the second pic and what I would think could be stronger is when the rope enters instead of going straight through the other side going down in the center 2 or 3 picks before exiting the rope on the opposite side.
As you can see it looks smoother of a transition and it should pull on the rope fibers more evenly.
How many locked brummels could you do before it would not help the splices strength? Do ultra slings have three passes?
What are your thoughts?
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It is weaker to open the rope to insert a tail than to pass it through itself.
5-7 locked brummels can be used with a short 2” bury.
A lock brummel is only useful if a short bury is needed, like hitch cord, or no bury, like ultraslings. By themselves with no bury there is about a fifty percent loss of strength, and five ten with a proper bury,
From The Splicing Handbook by Barbara Merry
5-7 locked brummels can be used with a short 2” bury.
A lock brummel is only useful if a short bury is needed, like hitch cord, or no bury, like ultraslings. By themselves with no bury there is about a fifty percent loss of strength, and five ten with a proper bury,
From The Splicing Handbook by Barbara Merry
ChrisCampo
Treehouser
Hello Guys,
So from now on it’s not only Tenex that will be on the trees helping you guys.. now we have our own exclusive Lupex rope only sold by Arbo Space and Arbo Space retailers.. the rope on the right (orange) is a tenex rope with a regular chafe gear that is how all the other companies offer their eye protection and the grey rope is our Lupex with Black Dyneema Chafe gear which is 1000x more durable.. we go the extra mile to satisfy our people!! I will upload also some splicing videos this week!If you are curious about the quality, go ahead and get it and if you are not happy with the sling we will refund you your $$$$.
So from now on it’s not only Tenex that will be on the trees helping you guys.. now we have our own exclusive Lupex rope only sold by Arbo Space and Arbo Space retailers.. the rope on the right (orange) is a tenex rope with a regular chafe gear that is how all the other companies offer their eye protection and the grey rope is our Lupex with Black Dyneema Chafe gear which is 1000x more durable.. we go the extra mile to satisfy our people!! I will upload also some splicing videos this week!If you are curious about the quality, go ahead and get it and if you are not happy with the sling we will refund you your $$$$.
Hey Chris. Just doing a search on y’all’s website. I couldn’t find specs on that rope or it being available by the foot. A lot of us make our own slings. Personally I buy my tenex tec from Wesspur cause I can get it at around $1 a foot (best prices I’ve found overall). Would definitely be interested in buying some lengths of rope if y’all make them available
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