How's the splice today?

[Jonny]

These two are my first two double braid splices Ever! YeeHaawww!!! 3/8 stablebraid is very fantastic for first time. me, cherry popped good! Me love long time. Im suprised how easy it was to follow SAMSONS video. I got this rope on clearance from wesspur and i had be looking for light rigging rope. I originally made the bigger of the two so i could girth it to the snap but then i got home and wanted to splice so i tied eyed to snap. I think i should cut rope in half, that way i can end to end splice

How do you know when milking the eye, do you know when its done? And when you can get some more? Any tips on it?

Excellent!!!
Can you post the video from Samson that you used?
My last attempt was a mess, and I got a ton of 3/8” Stable Braid. Runs really nicely with the Trango Vergo as a lanyard, functions almost exactly like the old Trango Cinch (which are a real treasure if you can find one), just made for skinnier rope.

Hell I might make a bunch of long prusiks and use them for speed line slings.

 

[Mesquite]

@Jonny

I watch this



With this attachment open in the back ground so when i forget what line they are refering to i go to this for a reminder its the samson written instructions its all class 1 double briad eye

 

[Jonny]

Thanks very much!
Hopefully I’ll have an easy and boring shift on Sunday night to Monday morning and I’ll give it another try then. Got a nice CT captive eye carabiner in mind for it. It’ll be nice to not have a big old knot on there when I wanna use the Trango Vergo for an adjuster.

Fingers crossed.

 

[Mesquite]

One thing i did do differently on the second splice was the taper on the cover and core. I followed their directions and then on top of theirs i than uweaved 3 to 4 inches from the end and cut at a diagonal. I noticed on my first splice that it was a little bumpy and that made it all better.

@Trains if your looking for a more complex 12 strand hollow braid splice the tuck bury its a nice splice for an eye. Samson has instructions and dynamica ropes too. I use the dynamica way because i like how the rope enters and goes through the standing side their way the best. I dont like how they leave the ends out of thr rope and tape them so i was able to bury those pieces. But i think a nice whipping would do a nice job in covering them and making the rope look better than tape


Here is dynamica ropes video



Here is samsons video

 

[Mesquite]

@Jonny are you going to use the trango vergo as an adjuster for your lanyard?

 

[Jonny]

Yes, I’ve already used it some with a piece of Sterling 10mm WorkPro or SafetyPro or something like that. Soft, floppy, squishy rope. I don’t much care for that rope, but the Vergo is nice.

 

[Mesquite]

has anyone tried a class 2 double braid splice with a class 1 rope? looks easier as long as you do a great whipping jobbie at the end

 

[Brocky]

If using the class II, theoretically it would only have about half the break strength as the cover is only whipped to the side and not involved in the splice, and not the usual half. Lots of stitches might help, a few with tight whipping wouldn’t, the rope shrinks in diameter too much when loaded.

 

[Mesquite]

Yeah i wasnt fond of how they finished with the cover. I will have to simmer on all the double rope splice instructions and come up with a frankenstein splice.

I got to use my newly spliced stable braid today. It worked fantastic! I used one side to butt tie and the othe side of the rope to a tag line both going through redirects to keep the limbs off the roof that was 2to 10 ft below depending on the limb. I was able to cut a nice open face notch twards where i wanted it to go, sideways away from the roof. I cut it up and then pull on the tip tie to swing the branch and i did a good job with the face cut so by the time the limb cleared the roof the hinge let go. The limbs were 150-100lbs ish. Each limb the butt tie was snubbed off.So that was a good warm up for my 3/8 stable braid. The HO thought that it was the cats mee-yow or the bees knees

 

[Brocky]

I got good results by lock brummeling the cover and core together and burying them in the core, using the same bury lengths.

 

[Mesquite]

i think this guy has a great tip about marking the cover instead of using marker to mark the cover of the rope. plus he has some other great videos on splicing, if your a splicing pro it wont be anything new. but sill check out the first couple of minutes to see how he marks his cover that is going to be visible

 

[Mesquite]

this is a good tip if the crossover is being stubborn. this probably wont happen with stable braid but for some one down the line splicing a climbing line double braid this might help in the video he splices ocean poly in a 28 inch i2i.

- YouTube

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

youtube.com

i also read in the hoos, that some people lock stick the cross over to keep it from becoming baggy during insertion. a couple inches each way and that you can use a piece of the cover that you tapered previously

 

[Mesquite]

I forget what these things are called but they are great tools when extracting the core out of the cover. I use them the exact way shown in samson double braid video how they extract the core. I just find the little hook on them grabs the core great and they are dull on the ends so that they dont pick the core while feeling around.

 

[Marc-Antoine]

A crochet hook, used to make the lace. The hook's size is function of the thread's diameter. It allows to grab the loose thread on the back of the lace and pull it through toward the front without catching the already woven ones (actually just the same thread from start to finish)..

 

[Tommy_B]

I haven't spliced anything for ages. Will have to get the kit out later

 

[Mesquite]

@Jonny were you able to do any splicing las nigh or this morning?


I think im going to turn my wire fid into a wire fid like this! It would be nice to have a handle on the end.

Rope Logic Wire Fid

This custom wire fid is hand made by the folks at Rope Logic.

www.treestuff.com

 

[Tommy_B]

Not a bad way to spend an evening

 

[Mesquite]

Just a little whipping, i am reluctant to do lock stiching because ever break video where they break ropes there is so much movement in the eye that i dont want to interfere with any fibers in the splice since that is where the rope will break. In my opinion i think lock stitching is a big thing with ropes you buy because its the fast and easy to do.


The video for me was great to watch i picked up so many little things that will make life easier. One is to put a cam cleat on your desktop where you spice as a soft attachment point to hold you rope in place while working on the splice. Another quick tip i got was to use buggie or shock cord to do the milking. Its great and it saves the hair on my palms from getting pulled out by the rope.

 

[Brocky]

What does the rope manufacturer splicing instructions say about stitches?

 

[Tommy_B]

Not sure why picture didn't attach

 

[Mesquite]

@Tommy_B is that orange one a 16 strand? Ooo is that an adjustable friction saver? Me likey!

@Brocky well samson's double braid instructions say to finish splice with with a lock stitching. I have been watching yoyoMans aka richard Mumford's youtube channel and all of the double braids he has tested when real weight is applied a good amount of the eye gets sucked into the throat of the splice and the more weight the more the eye continues to get sucked into the throat until terminal velocity hits and all hell breaks loose. I would say i have seen at least 3 to 5 inches have disappeared, Maybe more. He has a few videos of him breaking all types if ropes and webbings. Very informative stuff he has!

I personally dont like the idea of sticking a needle through my rope, even if they are dull, i don't like it!

 

[Brocky]

Those splices might not be done right, they are sent in by amateur splicers, not professionals. There is no “disturbance in the force” by putting a needle through rope, as long as it is a ball tipped, not chisel tip needle. The twine used will break before it adversely affects the splice. Not many places offer hand spliced products, most are sewn.

 

[flushcut]

Rise of the machines and their repeatable perfection. God bless the hand splicers!

 

[Tommy_B]

@Mesquite Yes, adjustable friction saver. Saw a photo of a guy using 2 cambium savers to give 4 anchor points. Had one cambium saver so thought I'd make another one to go with it!

 

[Marc-Antoine]

You are never allowed to put a load close to the breaking strength on any gear/rope. Far from that. If you plan to load as much your rigging or anything, you seriously have to reconsider your way. The purpose of the stitching is to keep the construction in good order under no or light load despite all the manipulations, movments, wiggles.... It has to stay itself in good condition in all the practical domain of use, not to sustain the destruction of the device.
Iit's interesting to see the failure at the limit, but it's irrelevant for the practical use. It's like running a dozer over a car!
That's why I'm really woried with the towing/recovery gear for offroadinig. Interesting stuff and cheap (mostly) but often, the safety factor is only 2. Sure their rating makes the product looks good, but if you look a bit closer, it is actually scary weak for the purpose.

Edit, I surely said that before.