How'd it go today?

Fairly productive day. Went into work usual time, got my nasty old poulanpro cause I had dirt logs to cut, got a bunch of wood staged for splitting, and a truckload of firewood.

Took the poulanpro back to the office, and got my 661+mill, and got an 8" slab cut in preparation for making the boss' brother's column. My new edging mill should be in Saturday, so I'll get the column sometime next week. I had to take the dogs off to make the cut. I'm looking at the screws thinking I can get them off without removing the saw from the mill, the clutch cover, and chain. Got all the screws out except for the one at the oil tank. Silly me, I didn't realize it went through the saw, and straight to their headquarters in Waiblingen. That was the only one that required me to disassemble everything :^S

Debated on cutting a couple more ½" slabs from the pine at the office. I didn't really feel like it, but I already had all the stuff out, so it was as easy as it was gonna get. That was a good call. Older lady next door heard the saw and came over. She wanted some deadwood removed from the maple behind her house, and asked how much I'd charge. I go over and look at it, and it's all pretty easy, and not much altogether. One branch I'll tie a rope to to lower it, but everything else is just dropping it. I say $100? She says that's not enough. How about $200? and asks if I'm sure it's enough. Honestly, I'd have done it gratis just to help her out. The work's no big deal. I'm gonna try to get that done before the weekend's over. My good climbing stuff's at home, and I'd rather use that. I could have gotten it today though.
 
I've been seeing a big boy grinder the last couple weeks. Tracked, and operated from a cabin. I think it belongs to our tree service client.
 
just did 20 eye splices in some 1/2" cheapo walmart 3 strand anchor rope, soft lay
my fingertips hurt like hell, no wonder you had trouble with the hard lay stuff, and I didnt get a single nice one, although I was doing it sitting on hot asphalt with sun glaring at me, and splicing onto wood (my plywood mats, adding handles)


yikes
For my homemade outrigger pads 3/4" plywood 4 layers thick), I would drill 2 large 7/8" holes about an inch in from the edge and about 8" apart. Then I drilled another hole about 7/16" in from the edge of the pad into the side of the larger hole. Then I used a length of 3/8" cord and stuck each end through the smaller hole into the larger hole and tied an overhand knot to secure it. Then I would melt the end of the rope to keep it from coming untied.

Also a crane operator years ago showed me how to easily carry full sheets of plywood without straining yourself. Stand the sheet up on end in front of you. Turn around and grab each side behind you while bending your knees a little. Then lean forward slightly and straighten your knees and let the board lay on your back. Walk to where it goes and set it down.
 
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Also a crane operator years ago showed me how to easily carry full sheets of plywood without straining yourself. Stand the sheet up on end in front of you. Turn around and grab each side behind you while bending your knees a little. Then lean forward slightly and straighten your knees and let the board lay on your back. Walk to where it goes and set it down.
I've moved enough 4 x 8 sheets of ply in my illustrious scaffolding career and I can agree this is the best way.👍
 
For my homemade outrigger pads 3/4" plywood 4 layers thick), I would drill 2 large 7/8" holes about an inch in from the edge and about 8" apart. Then I drilled another hole about 7/16" in from the edge of the pad into the side of the larger hole. Then I used a length of 3/8" cord and stuck each end through the smaller hole into the larger hole and tied an overhand knot to secure it. Then I would melt the end of the rope to keep it from coming untied.

Also a crane operator years ago showed me how to easily carry full sheets of plywood without straining yourself. Stand the sheet up on end in front of you. Turn around and grab each side behind you while bending your knees a little. Then lean forward slightly and straighten your knees and let the board lay on your back. Walk to where it goes and set it down.
Can you sketch that first part, please?

Kyle is a good artist, if tips are needed. ;) :lol:
 
I've got two 4x8 plywood sheet cut in half lengthways for trundling the spider lift on soft ground.
Two handles on one long side and one handle on one short end. Twisted nylon poked through a washer, hole, then through some pieces of old garden hose then poke through another hole, washer, knotted and melted.
 
knocked 2 white pines down to a stick, got 3 to go but waiting on the crane for them, all low limbs over the fence and houses, gonna have 2 crane setups in 2 parkinglots to reach, gonna have lots of cars to move
lots of GRCS lifting today, took all day for the 2 since I was a dummy and left my 1/2" line home, brought my 3/4" incase, and my 1/2" blocks, but no ring or block for the 3/4", WTF

had to run the vermeer and buy yet another 200ft bag of 1/2" stablebraid, but hey, 2 1/2" 200 ft lines, 1 200ft 3/4" line, not a bad deal honestly for any rigging I plan to do

mangled a speedline biner using it as a frictionsaver too, I think my rope got around the gate and loaded it up
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I'm whooped. Hottest day of the year so far, and I decided to do the lady's job next to the office. Took way longer than I expected; about 4.5hr all included. I kept finding more stuff to cut while I was in the tree. My 2511 is being a dick also. Doesn't want to start after shutting it down. I can get it going with one pull on fast idle, but that's lame, and not right.

Almost lost my 8oz throwbag. I wanted to do some throwline pruning while I was in the tree. Throw the bag, snatch it up so it wraps around the branch. Perfect! Well, not quite. Though it was very dead, I hit it too close to union, and it wouldn't break. After giving it a couple big pulls, I dropped the line, and figured I'd try when I hit the ground. Got down, wrapped it around a stick, and pulled like hell more or less inline with the branch. I somehow broke the branch, AND my throwline, but I got the bag back.

I didn't get everything, but I got all the major stuff, and most of the minor stuff. Woman was very happy, and I got paid in cash, which is awesome. Figured I'd get a check. Tree's in pretty bad shape. It's on a slow decline. It'll be a good while before it must be removed, but she'll have to keep her eyes open for dead branches. The house is in striking distance of some of them.
 
I can get it going with one pull on fast idle, but that's lame, and not right.
you dont hold your saws wide open when starting?
only saw I dont do that with is the 500, all the others I start almost exclusively at full throttle, and they start easy
 
First start is full choke/fast idle. After that, I just pull the cord unless it's set for awhile. At 0.5hr, I might set fast idle. Depends on the weather. All my saws have behaved til recently with the 2511.
 
It is best to start engines on fast idle. Autotune Husqvarnas like it. In theory, the idle throttle is just enough to keep the engine spinning at idle rpm. Starting rpm doesn't draw in fuel/air as much, and the power output possible at cranking rpm is extremely low, so fast idle is the ideal way to start. My modded (by someone else) 2511t is very finicky to start. I always have the choke set at 2/3 on, and that of course means fast idle is set.
 
On the ground or even more in the tree, I much prefer to start the saw with the chain still. Fast idle, the clutch engages, so, the chain brake is mandatory, wear, noise, more moves, not ready to cut... I can deal with that to warm the saw, but most of the time in the tree, I shut off the saw after each cut, that would represent a lot of unnecessary moves operating constantly both the trigger and the brake during all the day. It pisses me well enough when the chain brake engages itself by touching the limbs between two cuts. Idealy, this should be (and it was the case not long ago) pull, cut, shut off. That's all. Not click, pull, clack, cut, re clack...
 
I don't mind operating the chainbrake. It's all pretty fluid when you get in the groove. I don't want to pull the cord more than once though. I've gotta look at the saw this weekend. AFAIC, if you have to start a warm saw with throttle, the saw's broken.
 
I rarely use the brake. I prefer not to. It helps me to never assume the chain won't spin, and it prevents wear and tear on the brake, so hopefully it is more likely to work when needed. I guess that could backfire if a lack of use lets too much sawdust accumulate in the way o the mechanism, if possible. I find no problem with letting the chain spin at startup in the tree. Autotune Husqys don't move the chain much if any on fast idle, they either have a rev limiter or special mixture setting that keeps it in fast idle mode without spinning too fast.
 
An intelligent neighbor said that an important government official (presidential cabinet status) was on that plane as it had an escort. Wonder if the secretary of defense was above our house this evening?! Not sure if both planes showed up on the photos. The leader was supposed to be a fighter jet.
 

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An intelligent neighbor said that an important government official (presidential cabinet status) was on that plane as it had an escort. Wonder if the secretary of defense was above our house this evening?! Not sure if both planes showed up on the photos. The leader was supposed to be a fighter jet.
adsb exchange and flightradar 24 are great for seeing what planes are where, maybe thats got some info?

whats a general area and time? I might can go back and see what it was
 
I believe most government planes, especially those with military escorts, fly "dark" (are not on that app or any registry). Their flight paths may be available after landing, but even that may be considered sensitive information.
 
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