How'd it go today?

Here in the salt belt it pays to clean up your hubs when putting on new rotors or drums. Good coat of NS and they will come right off instead of being welded on. Same if you have to replace a hub bearing. I use it a lot. It does suck to get it on you.

I have never seen Free All. I used to be a fan of PB. Now the straw inside the can falls off and it will only work upside down or it bleeds off all the pressure and won't squirt at all. Years ago my uncle brought a can of STP penetrant from California. I was so good I hid it so it didn't get wasted. Spraying a whole bunch on does no more than a little.
 
Keep your eyes open for little spray bottles. You might use something around the house that could be repurposed when empty. I've had cans of oil-like things go bad(PB was the last one in fact. Your post reminded me). Drain off any air that might be left, punch a hole in the can, and drain it into the spray bottle.
 
I was removing my hail mary chain from the Frontier yesterday. I used it to hopefully hold the chipper if it came loose from the truck. I was gonna take a pic of the underside to show the nightmare going on under there, but it probably wouldn't have turned out well due to lighting, and you really have to see that kind of thing in person. It was a northern PA truck.
 
Fair to say in view of its remarkable properties that you shouldn't use in some apps e.g. chipper knife bolts?

You absolutely should use something, and i use it on most sealing surfaces as well. Bolts are tightened to a set torque, basically you can calculate the squeezing force of a bolt by the torque (it's an inclined plane wrapped around a cylinder), and what you're actually doing is stretching the bolt in the plastic deformation phase, so the steel itself stretched to hold it in place. If you don't lubricate the threads the coefficient of friction is much higher, so your torque will be much higher as well to achieve the same clamping force. And since that force is enough to physically stretch steel you can imagine the force that's carried on the little nubs of metal.

This stretching needs to happen for the bolt to do its job, which is why critical bolts are only used once, they are stressed hard enough in use that the metal has likely work hardened, and the threads act as a sharp point to start a fracture. The forces to do this are incredible as you can imagine, and most really critical stuff the exact lubricant is specified, and i would imagine most chippers have that, along with the fastener specs, likely a proprietary bolt but can be cross referenced or measured. Studs are even stronger because they're completely uniform so a better heat treatment is guaranteed, and I've even used ones that were Teflon coated too. So at a minimum some lubricant has to be used to even install a bolt correctly, as all torque specs are for lubricated conditions.

Which one is a hard thing to answer, but it has to be something. Oil is fine, but it will wash away and the stuff will rust together. Grease works pretty good, and they've even developed assembly greases specifically designed for the assembly process, and most products you buy with critical stuff come slathered with it. The problem is that to remove the bolt later you're gonna have to apply a ton of torque, and by then the threads are have rust packed in them to quickly render the little remaining grease into an abrasive powder. All this creates a ton of heat, so much so that the threads weld themselves together, called galling. Without anything you will likely gall them up before you get to the install torque, and coming out, lol good luck. And this is what sets neversieze apart from the rest, because it's not only an oily mess, it has powdered metal in it to prevent this galling process. There's several different types, aluminum for aluminum, nickel and copper for general use, and even molybdenum for the real stuff. It will remain effective even through a bunch of heat and cool cycles, where all the metal is expanding and warping, the true test of a bolt.

I'm not kidding, I've come up to bolts figuring out how i was gonna cut them off and been completely amazed by how easy they came off. Ones painted over so many times the paint stays on the nut in shape of the bolt, ones completely rusted away behind the nut so you cut the extra threads off and it comes right off. 40 plus years in steam service, no paint, come right off. It's stupid effective.

Thread locker is another option, and very well may be what you're supposed to use since you kinda want them to stay. Likely one that comes apart easily after a bit of heat, because there's a bunch of different types of those too, all with different applications, they even have one that siezes parts together so well it's as good or better than a press fit. Paint was the old school way, and works now too, and I've even heard of the wrap it in sock full of rock salt and spraying it down so it rusts trick for stuff you want locked without welding or punching threads. Messing them up with channel locks is used on other applications with mild vibration, 1 time use normally but forcing the nut off fixes the threads. But for important stuff use the right stuff, engines the same way.

For me personally, i tend to go with the neversieze for pretty much everything, and if it's critical it gets torqued. I plan on maintaining it, and I'm too tired to fight shit. My chipper drum is machined with blind taps, balanced, and has been out of production for decades. I cleaned and chased the threads with a tap and oil, and then used neversieze, because fixing that would be a giant pain. I recheck torque a few times, but i plan on removing them again at some point. Most gaskets get painted too, and then you don't have to scrape nearly as much. It will help fill irregularities to make a more secure seal, and I've gotten away with just coating a slightly torn gasket with the stuff and they're still holding to this day. Brake calipers where they slide, screw threads on jack stands and trailer jacks, outdoor hinges, basically anywhere that the navy would grease in their paint and grease maintenence method (moves gets grease, doesn't then gets paint) is a candidate for the stuff.

Btw there's another trick with using the stuff, as it comes from the factory is wonderful but it is messy. If you let it dry out a bit it develops a stiffer consistency, making it much easier to use and paint on the threads. Some guys just put a dab on and go letting the spinning spread it out for them, and you can get away with that for some stuff, but you're not really getting it in there where it's needed. So i paint everywhere i don't want rust, so pretty much all the threaded part, really working it in the threads. The thickened neversieze carries more of the metal powder, so galling is even less likely. It won't drip on you, and will dry onto the surface kind of like a stubborn dirty dish, which protects the steel from rusting, so well in fact they wrap pipeline pipes with a neversieze filled fabric wrap when it is likely to have the paint chipped coming up out of the ground like a gravel lot (now that's a damn mess). As you probably guessed a penetrating oil restores it to a more liquid state again, and you can do that in the can as well so don't throw out the old stuff yet. The biggest thing is getting the metal powder on there, that's what does the work after the grease and oil leave.
 
When I was switching trucks over a week ago, I found a set of vicegrips I lost ~20 years ago. They dropped out when I was moving an ammo crate. I'm not exactly sure where they came from. My best guess is they were wedged into the wood on the bottom of the crate, and finally dropped off.

Well, it was a nice morning, so I went out to tweak the truck setup. After I was done, I turned my attention to the vicegrips. They were rusted up tight as a drum. I poured a bunch of PB on them(from a stihl mix bottle cause the can had died :^D ), and got them worked loose. Problem was the spring was missing, but I had a solution!

Maybe 10 years ago I bought some harborfreight mini vicegrips. I figured I mainly use them for clamping a piece of hacksaw blade to make xcuts in concrete, so even a completely shitty tool should be able to do that. Never underestimate how bad HF tools can be! They broke almost immediately, and have been sitting around my house forever. I've had them in my hand several times to throw them out, then think "Nah. I might be able to use parts off of it sometime", specifically thinking of the spring. I finally got to use it! It's a crappy spring, and it'll fall off if you comoletely open the vicegrips, but it works well enough. The jaws of the vicegrips miss fully closing by ~0.5mm, but they'll clamp a hacksaw blade. and will probably get better with use. I moved the repaired grips to my belt, and brought my better ones in the house, and I finally get to throw the HF carcass away!

Also, the truck's better. I still need to spend time with it to figure out where everything wants to be, but it's setup pretty well.

IMG_20241006_093901513.jpg
 
You know you can make a slide hammer puller from a pair of vice grips for stuck injectors or glow plugs and possibly other stuck widgets? Just need some all thread, nuts, washers and a heavy impact socket. Thread the all thread in where the tightening nut goes. A nut there so its lockable at that adjustment. Couple washers, socket, couple washers and a nut on the end for the stop.
 
Of course Kyle would probably just fab one up by welding it. But I like I can disassemble by unscrewing the all thread and replace the tightening nut so I can use them as vice grips if needed
 
I don't need to hear reasons to hoard shit! The HF grips have stripped threads on the adjustment screw slot. Yea, I could conceivably fix them, or possibly scavenge another part, but it's time to let them go. I've held onto them long enough, and it paid off. The gods punish you when you get too greedy :^D
 
You guys think that's a good idea for chipper knives? When it was mentioned, I looked it up in the manual, and it didn't say one way or the other. I don't yet know how bad they can be to get off. I've never really used anti seize compound aside from doing sparkplugs in alloy heads. I've always been afraid of taking the threads out with the plug on non iron heads.
 
They didn't, the dry friction is more than enough to cause galling, and the static and sliding friction coefficients are too far apart. The lubricated friction is much less, so it will require far less torque to achieve the bolt stretch, aka preload, and since the static and sliding friction coefficients are much lower they're much closer together, so it's achievable in the field. If it's a thread that matters, it needs something on it. Some stuff is meant to rust and lock in place, carriage bolts come to mind, but those are cheap grade 3 hot dipped bolts. Ever notice how pretty much every actual grade 5 or better bolt you buy has oil all over it? You can go look it up too if you don't believe me, I'm sure it's in an asme code somewhere too, I'll check later in machinery handbook
 
I use anti-sieze on my chipper blade bolts and never have a problem. I get grumpy when I change another crews blades and they haven’t been using it. Basically if I can’t break them loose with the impact, someone else gets to do it with a breaker bar.

I had a good week end. Took the girls down to the Paul Bunyan show this morning. We got to check out all the cool equipment. And get buckets of fair fries. For some reason they are so much tastier than any other French fry. Then a birthday party for my nephews. Got to catch up with some of my wife’s family that I rarely see. Now just relaxing a few before going out to load up for work tomorrow.
 
With a pretty nice spell of weather over the last week or so, only one rainy day in the last 8 days, M and I have been getting after a few items on the honey do list.

We replaced about 120 lineal feet of PT 2x6 decking on the back deck and a couple of 8 foot long by 12 inch wide treads on the front porch stairs. We generally have to replace a few boards every 5 or 6 years, but this year it was time for a bit more.

In one of those "why the hell have I not done this before...it has needed doing since we built this house in 1988!?" projects that ended up far simpler than I would have guessed, I cut out a 2'x3' rectangle of siding on the tall end of the porch skirting and built a door to access the underside of the porch. This will make replacing several boards on the porch decking easier, since I will need to sister some joists to simplify that job. One more trip to the lumber yard should do it for a few more 2x6's, and we can finish up the porch work later this week.

Good to get these projects done, and it has been straightforward and easy work in the bargain :).
 
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