Tree felling vids

Ok, so as well as the sapwood held on this one, it makes me wonder if on these really brittle trees I shouldn’t go very shallow or maybe even no face, all sap wood when I want them to hold…?





This one I goofed by putting the back cut in a knot. Might have held better in good grain, or if I had vertical plunged behind the hinge to cut it loose from the stump and allow it to flex.


@Trains
 
What's the question buddy? At first glance in a few seconds of video, looks like you've got a Charlie Foxtrot situation.
The one on the right has a limb in front of the tree on the left. I wonder if I can wedge it fwd toward the camera enough to unlock it and drop it left


@SeanKroll with triple hinges, have you found it best to center the back cut vertically in the hinges/face, or at the top?

Thanks
 
Ok, so as well as the sapwood held on this one, it makes me wonder if on these really brittle trees I shouldn’t go very shallow or maybe even no face, all sap wood when I want them to hold…?





This one I goofed by putting the back cut in a knot. Might have held better in good grain, or if I had vertical plunged behind the hinge to cut it loose from the stump and allow it to flex.


@Trains

They will pretty much go where they are leaning, you will get a bit out of them, but not much, best to aim off, put up line if assets nearby you dont want altered :), a tapered hinge helps a bit depending on species, but dont rely on them to give you what you want.
I mostly plunge cut, set hinge, that way you get a feel for the rest of the stem you cant otherwise see, as they do tend to become hollow, or rot. you also feel how the stem feels as you plunge thru it, that can give you useful info on the stem your dealing with, as each will be different.

Regarding the knot in that other hinge, look at the fiber pull, what does that tell you ?

Re sap wood, I think you get more difference between compression and tension wood on the leaners, so consider those factors and keep to the basics of good hinge placement for the situation and correct aim etc.
 
If you can guy it agaist the lean, even better. Keep the hinge thicker on the tension wood. If you can clear the structure with a face set 45* off it, better than 180. Your hinge will hold longer.
Guy it for sure.
 
Staying on the ground and finding a way is more fun and challenging. And I’ll probably live longer.

Sorry for being short on details. I started taking that vid and the guy started talking.

I was gona post a pic, but…

If you watch the above video of the brittle Euc, the two crossed trees now in question are just behind the one I’m dropping. The phone was at the fence. So, they both need to do the same thing…lean out a little 90° to their lean, then drop with the lean. The one I did went a little too far with the wedge and clipped the fence. The one on the left is easy…once the one on the right is gone. It leans left (north) but has limb weight back south and the trunk sweeps back east towards the container pretty good. On the first, one I gunned 90° to the lean and got 45°. So I think I will gun and winch this one 22.5° 😁 off the lean to swing it out a bit and then drop with the lean. If it doesn’t come out far enough, it may get hung…but the winch won’t care.
 
I think I should just give the David a crash course in climbing, then he'll be asking totally different questions.

Also @davidwyby, it looks like I'm based out of Springerville moving forward, if you find yourself in the area. Got my wood cutting permits too...
Wanna go, bad, trees wifout targets…but winter slammed busy

Ain’t it mucho frio over there?
 
Wanna go, bad, trees wifout targets…but winter slammed busy

Ain’t it mucho frio over there?
Dress well and work like the devil and it's fair warm.

Don't hurt living I'm the truck like I have, ive noticed I'm a bit better acclimated to the outside lolz. That'll probably change, since someone let the stray in.
 
The one on the right has a limb in front of the tree on the left. I wonder if I can wedge it fwd toward the camera enough to unlock it and drop it left


@SeanKroll with triple hinges, have you found it best to center the back cut vertically in the hinges/face, or at the top?
Try this if you like...

Rather than having a triple- hinge on one side with a tapered backcut, bore 3 parellel, vertical slots, forming 4 full-width hinges (the rearmost hinge includes all of the remaining backcut- wood). Use a pull line that as-strongly-as-possible resembles a 90⁰ retainer line, possibly "floating-a-log", too.
Use another pull rope if needed.


When going for the backcut, you can still have tapered/ stronger tension-side of the hinge.

Cut fast with a strong, sharp saw, with a bar long enough that it clears the tree or nearly clears the tree ( cut up the compression side a little, maintaining the kerf plane as you are on the tension side, or come in lower a hair on the tension- side kerf).
 
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