Tree felling vids

@davidwyby

to add... you may (likely will) cut off part of a hinge, all of a hinge, part of two hinges, all of a hinge.

IDK which if any face-cut type might work best. If I was trying get the most, (currently sitting in the recliner) I would consider a full-gap face, with the caveat---beware spiral grain.
 
Trains said:
They will pretty much go where they are leaning, you will get a bit out of them, but not much, best to aim off, put up line if assets nearby you dont want altered :), a tapered hinge helps a bit depending on species, but dont rely on them to give you what you want.
I mostly plunge cut, set hinge, that way you get a feel for the rest of the stem you cant otherwise see, as they do tend to become hollow, or rot. you also feel how the stem feels as you plunge thru it, that can give you useful info on the stem your dealing with, as each will be different.

Regarding the knot in that other hinge, look at the fiber pull, what does that tell you ?

Re sap wood, I think you get more difference between compression and tension wood on the leaners, so consider those factors and keep to the basics of good hinge placement for the situation and correct aim etc.
Click to expand...
Knot on the hinge in the ironbark or back cut in the knot/burl in the Euc?
 
davidwyby said:
Knot on the hinge in the ironbark or back cut in the knot/burl in the Euc?
Click to expand...
the second one, tall thin spindly one that leaned way over, the comment with that video in it, missed the bit where you wanted to cut thru the knot/ burl of that one,
 
@davidwyby


I hope that pic works.

I would bore-in from both sides to set up the hinges.

Find a landmark on your bar (maybe a specific letter of the logo on the bar) that can help you know when you've bored-in halfway+ to be sure you don't have an accidental center post/ cut too much out of the middle.
 
Last edited:
Seen it. Great flick! Great documentation of a natural 'disaster'.

Lordy, once again, those cutters are so freaking hard!!!! Those big saws are so freaking heavy. And doing it all with no hearing pro and dealing with the ash and dull saws, it don't get more hardcore than that I'd say.

And can you imagine chopping bark 7 hrs/ day??!!??
 
KV and I both enjoyed that film, immensely. It was a winner with my little one on two fronts, she loves logging, and she loves "old" documentary films.
 
It will take more review on a bigger screen for me.

I believe, overall, the cut manipulated the tree to lean towards the natural lean (toward the rear), rolling into the area of cut compression wood (90⁰ clockwise of the layout) into the 'secondary lean' , swinging with momentum, guided by the tapered hinge to the facecut aimed at the layout.


I've been trying to learn how this cut works over time. Haven't tried it, yet.
 
SeanKroll said:
It will take more review on a bigger screen for me.

I believe, overall, the cut manipulated the tree to lean towards the natural lean (toward the rear), rolling into the area of cut compression wood (90⁰ clockwise of the layout) into the 'secondary lean' , swinging with momentum, guided by the tapered hinge to the facecut aimed at the layout.
Click to expand...
I'm eager to watch, will soon. Your description sounds a bit like this:

 
Soft dutchman and sizewheel are different cuts. Not necessarily capable of steering a leaner the same way. I'll use a soft dutchman more for just swinging a tree off canopy where the favor of the tree really only needs to slightly swing off to miss. So the tree they did with the sizewheel was able to be set into a larger arch using the longer fibers on one side.
Soft dutchy is more about compressing the curfs as the tree closes the face.
 
True. I was just wondering if the Sizwell cut in the vid was in addition to dutchman action.

Either way, seems like strong wood species is key, e.g. D fir in both vids
 
Oversimplification…Dutchman pushes the compression side up/fwd. The sizwheel holds the tension side.

The easy way to start off is to make your flat gunning cut gunned between the lean and the lay. Then your Humboldt angled cut to the lay. Then open up the tension side with the sizwheel. It’s a one side gap face. Taller hinge holds on longer.

I have studied and studied these and rarely get a chance to use them. The trees here do not lend themselves to it.

Recently went up n but the landowner wanted the trees 180 to the lean not 90…
 
Does a sizwell normally have a kerf in it or is it usually just the vee section with no kerf.

More-

 
Oversimplification…Dutchman pushes the compression side up/fwd. The sizwheel holds the tension side.

The easy way to start off is to make your flat gunning cut gunned between the lean and the lay. Then your Humboldt angled cut to the lay. Then open up the tension side with the sizwheel. It’s a one side gap face. Taller hinge holds on longer.

I have studied and studied these and rarely get a chance to use them. The trees here do not lend themselves to it.

Recently went up n but the landowner wanted the trees 180 to the lean not 90…
cory said:
Does a sizwell normally have a kerf in it or is it usually just the vee section with no kerf.

More-

Click to expand...

no kerf, tall clean face
 
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