What would be a good way to add friction that doesn't use specialized hardware? I think the munter hitch has a reputation for thrashing ropes. Maybe a rescue8?
Basic natual-crotch rigging.
3-strand treemaster and TrueBlue take natural-crotch abuse and are stretchy for energy dissipation.
Relying on a less-than-experienced groundie would be way more dicey, IMO, than a veteran climber catching a small top on a spindly spar.
Self-catching bigger tops, I rely on a remote-from-me rigging point if needed, and a double friction wrap Natural Crotched or metal friction device (BMS Belay Spool, Rig-n-Wrench, Morgan Block, POW).
Ropes are like saw chain...very durable, money- makers that wear out and you get a new one. Cheap compared to what they protect (your body) and the paying work accomplished. Downgraded ropes are useful for lots of things.
Fwiw, I've got 5/8" DB, 9/16" DB, 1/2" DB, 3/8" DB, 1/2" Stable-braid and Husky, 1/2" 3-strand TREEMaster and TrueBlue, a 1/2" XTC 12 or 16 strand (old climbing rope), etc., for rigging.
A large percentage of the time I use 3-strand treemaster (best with Maasdam rope-puller) and TrueBlue.
There is a real place for stronger, stiffer ropes.
I'm going to look into smaller and lighter.
Lots of my rigging is for pieces weighing less than 100 pounds. 200 pound pieces, eased down onto the rope using wood fiber, then cut free can still be within WLL.
Nothing catastrophic happens at 11% MBS.
3-strand rotates with a load. Mostly, that doesn't matter for me.
If I'm switching between lowering and somewhat flat speedlining, I'd go with TrueBlue. 3-strand is poor with biners directly sliding in a flat rope angle.
Steep rope angles, 3-strand is ok.
For high- tension speed- lining and/ or flat rope-angles, a low-stretch rope with a smooth sheath is called for.
Munter- hitches and F8s will hockle ropes if you allow.
Both have more limited options than NC (additional wraps are available at the main rigging point, and on a remote stub ot trunk).