Shoo Goo glue works great on carbon or fiberglass. A dab under each suction cup, after they and the board have been de greased and de waxed, squish down and secure for 24 hours. The nice thing about Shoo Goo is it's not permanent and can be removed, albeit with effort, and not leave any marks
Shoo Goo glue works great on carbon or fiberglass. A dab under each suction cup, after they and the board have been de greased and de waxed, squish down and secure for 24 hours. The nice thing about Shoo Goo is it's not permanent and can be removed, albeit with effort, and not leave any marks
Don't remember where the tsurugi handle discussion was, but here's mine. 100% Silicone caulking, cornstarch and some blue paint, makes a putty that you can squish/mold pretty well.
Epoxy is what was supposed to be used to make it. Nothing will really eat it. The carbon fiber is simply set in epoxy, it won't eat it. There's an off chance they used polyester resin, or polyvinyl, but epoxy is safe regardless. Super glue is fine too, it won't harm it but that's not what's used. I was/ am eventually planning on building some boats so I've been reading up on it for about a decade, honestly my idea for retirement basically Build a big sailboat, do charter sails and fishing, and get paid to live.
Hey I could post this in the SUP thread but perhaps more folks will see it here. I've got a glue question for a marine application, maybe Ruel will weigh in.
I have this one carbon fiber SUP board, its a racing type board ( I don't race but I do like it's speed and lightness) and it has zero cargo tie down capability- no where to affix some bungy cords etc. So I bought a small elasticized cargo net with 4 plastic suction cups but the suction cups don't work because the board has a slightly roughened texture so the cups can't get suction. I was thinking of glueing the cups to the board, was wondering what type of marine glue I should use or if y'all have any other ideas. Thanks
Just saw this, second kyles don't hard mount the net. My first thought is to locate where the suction cups should go, then do as little sanding/ cleanup, then coat the areas with west system epoxy/equivalent. That'll give you a nice smooth surface to suction to.
Lobsters and reefer are now the foundations of Maine's economy, come on over!
I started with two .75" edges I cut off of some spruce boards I made last year. They've been outside since, and were a little gnarly. There's also bug channels in them that didn't come out with the carving. Aside from the initial boards, all work was done with the tools shown. Two knives, and the saw I made the scabbard for. Roughed in the dimensions with the saw, cut a shallow channel in the middle with the knives, then glued it together, and carved the outside. My intention was to have it dangle like a puukko, but the hilt was too heavy, so I added the second double single constrictor down low to pin the loop in place. It can be put on a belt, or a biner can be clipped to the loops to hang it. Something happened when I glued and clamped it. It either slipped, or glue got in the channel. The saw doesn't fit as deeply as intended, but it should find it's place after a bit of use.
Like all my stuff, the polite description would be "rustic", but it should suffice for the task.
edit:
Correction - The lower constrictor is a single. I might have to change that to a double. I didn't account for enough cord when I cut it, but I'll see how it goes as-is.
If it works and you’re happy, then I’d call it a successful project
I rather liked how mine looked with the 550 cord wrap handle. Was thinking about some scraps of 1/8” poly sheet for a scabbard.
Sean Ruel, that looks great, almost the same profile as the handle from Silky.
That would be interesting to try. Dunno how I'd make out. My last spruce I was getting weirded out up top(feet at 35'?), but I didn't really trust the tree. It was dead as dead could be, and had a decent lean to it. Not sure if a fairly healthy tree would make a difference to my head. at least at Jed's height.
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