The Official Work Pictures Thread

I have no idea what happened. I went to edit my post and it all looks normal.
I'll get more pics tomorrow when I beach that whale. The lake gets real nasty and smelly in some areas. Zebra mussel has really helped clean the lake
 
Love the flushcut post post post post....... :lol:

So, Stephen....you SRT'd with spurs off a highline!!!! Good work, for sure. Glad it worked out for you.
 
lxskllr said:
Is that the large or medium tooth?

I haven't fooled with mine yet. They're still in the packaging. I think my first attempt at a handle will be made out of spruce, and hand shaped with a knife.
Click to expand...

I made a handle for my extra tsurugi out of diy sugru. Basically a putty made out of silicone caulking and corn starch. It's moldable, kinda squishy, pretty comfortable. DIY sugru recipe on instructables
 
Beached whale Image 2.jpg Image 2.jpg Image 3.jpg Image 1.jpg I ended up setting up a 14:1. (7:1 into a 2:1). The blue line is 1" Stable braid, green line is All Gear Pro force 9/16" 1" block secured with 3/8" grade 80 chain on the log. I had to cut one of the two major limbs off to clear a norway maple on the shore. Surprisingly enough after pulling the beast out there was only one limb left in the lake to grab with a polesaw. After it all I ran an estimate to take down the other willow for the neighbors and trim four other trees.
 
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We did that with a 40"dbh poderosa "top" that blew out in a storm and into a river. Pulled it out of the water, over boulders and onto a landing. 5:1 with the portable winch. Water logged, i bet 2' of wood weighed 1k.
Had to cut into 12-16" pieces for the mini to pick up. Fug that water was cold. Balls deep, bare foot with the 066.
350 ' of 1/2" stable braid. That little winch earned its money that day. As did the rope.
 
Maybe 30-40 ' to the landing. High block and redirect at the tree base to the winch another 20'away. Pulling the rig back for the next pick into the river was a chore. Winch man feeding you slack through the blocks.
 
Damn, not big enough? Would it make a difference if I told you i bucked a 8 foot log off of the beast that i needed a 3:1 with the mini to pull up?
 
The end to the right of Eric (my guy in shorts) is the bucked end. And i had to over come the slope of the shore that fell at a rate of about 9 or 10 inches per foot. Steep and muddy as there was a spring fed drainage all up in outr woork area.
 
Jonny said:
That’s the large one that was bought as the complete saw with handle and scabbard, and I got couple more blade in large and medium. I attempted a handle on one of the medium tooth blades with paracord and shrink tubing over the cord wrap. It’s a comfy grip that should be pretty durable. I gotta trim a little excess tubing to make it look prettier.
I posted the link a couple times before, but if any of y’all want a kickass full tang Silky blade for 10$, check Gemplers :)
View attachment 101994
Click to expand...
This is what I've come up with so far...

IMG_20200711_140308.jpg

Kinda ugly, but surprisingly comfortable, at least sitting in the house. It's just 3/8" polypro temp whipped. I'm gonna run with it like this and see how it works out. This will be my work belt saw. I just need to get a sheath together for it. I'll see if I can dig up some cargo strapping. I'm sure I've squirreled some away somewhere. Just need to find it.
 
Yea, it might not. I was thinking up all kinds of elaborate setups, and just said "screw it", and did the whip. I typically do the minimum necessary getting something to work while prototyping. Sometimes you get lucky, and it works fine, but if nothing else, it can clue you in to unforeseen problems before you've invested a bunch of time in a bad idea.
 
Just put some polyurethane glue on th e saw bef ore wrapping it.
That'll hold.

I got tired of apprentices constantly breaking the handles of the mauls we use for beating on wedges.
They can't hit the hardhead wedges and as a result, the handles eventually breaks.

Since they don't have the tools to replace the handle, that always falls to me.


So I came up with the idea of coating the handle with PU glue, then wrapping the top 5" with 0,5 cm Dyneema rope and saturating that with PU glue.

When that has hardened, I think it would deflect a .38 special.

No more broken handles here :D
 
Hey I could post this in the SUP thread but perhaps more folks will see it here. I've got a glue question for a marine application, maybe Ruel will weigh in.

I have this one carbon fiber SUP board, its a racing type board ( I don't race but I do like it's speed and lightness) and it has zero cargo tie down capability- no where to affix some bungy cords etc. So I bought a small elasticized cargo net with 4 plastic suction cups but the suction cups don't work because the board has a slightly roughened texture so the cups can't get suction. I was thinking of glueing the cups to the board, was wondering what type of marine glue I should use or if y'all have any other ideas. Thanks
 
Epoxy. Carbon fiber is almost always done with epoxy, so you will need epoxy to stick to it.

I would also strongly consider not gluing on it, and just use a full wrap ratchet strap when tying it down. Just put the ratchet straps under it, then fold them over the top which will pin it down. Like this.

Screenshot_20200711-154818_Photos.jpg
 
Straps will cause drag. Dunno how meaningful it would be, but it would be something. I used contact cement in my canoe, but that was rubber to plastic/vinyl.
 
lxskllr said:
Straps will cause drag.
Click to expand...

Exactly. Im trying to affix bungies or a cargo net to top of board so I can carry stuff while out on the water. Kyle, maybe I didn't explain it right.

Online searching is recommending super glue/cyanoacrylate.
 
Likely my misunderstanding. You can try that first, and if it doesn't work, you can epoxy it then. Simply hit it a bit with sandpaper first.
 
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