O.C.G.D. Thread, part two

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Got my stuff from arbsession...

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The HitchNut feels awfully light. It'll be interesting to see how well it holds up. I'm not worried about it. A big reason I got it and the wedges was because they made them in-house. They've treated me well, so I'm more inclined to gamble on stuff when they're getting all the profit.

Regarding the wedges... Those are $5 each when bought as a pair. The idea is you keep them hooked together on a piece of throwline, and you can use them individually as you would a normal pocket wedge, or you can stack them to make them double thickness. I'm usure how useful that'll be in practice, but it was cheaper per unit buying a pair, so why not? Again, 3D printed so durability is questionable, but these aren't banging wedges. Palm strike only.

The throw "cube" looks like it'll be pretty cool. More straightforward than normal cubes.

Finally, the felling lever. I anticipated taking the hook off cause my intention was to use it aerially, but I think I'll leave it. It's already a heavy item, and the hook doesn't add that much weight. Might be occasionally useful on the ground, and I don't usually take my big cant hook cause it's big and seldom needed. Seldom needed, but not never needed. The felling lever might fill that role without a bunch of extra crap to tote.
 
My air axe is untethered, but I don't use it much, and so far I've been by myself. I just clip it off on a paracord loop I have constrictored on the handle. A little more concerning is I've oversharpened it, and it'll cut you quick. I should have some kind of sheath on the blade. I cut my hand this week on my work woods hatchet. I had it in a bucket, and just brushed my hand against it, and it put a nice cut in my forefinger.
 
Saw came today! I won't bother with pics, cause it looks like Dave's except mine has the girly dogs :^D They really aren't bad, and I doubt I'll replace them, but we'll see what the saw gets used for.

Initial thoughts...

This saw's heavy, and it only gets heavier with the battery. I wonder if they make a harness to go with the 12ah battery? :^D This isn't a light trim saw, and isn't competing with the 2511. It's competition's gonna be the ~35cc tophandles. It also seems a little girthy, but I have the 2511 in my hand a lot more than the 355, so that's my frame of reference. It isn't obnoxiously wide for a high powered(presumably) tophandle.

The aluminum chaincatcher is mounted with a light screw. I'd like to see something more robust, and maybe a roller instead of a piece of aluminum. The lanyard ring feels solid, and I trust it more than the one on the 2511, though that one's never let me down. Everything went together well, and it seems especially easy to mount the b&c. I'll have to take a closer look to see why that is. Assembly looks good, and everything feels robust. It looks like it's ready for production work.

Question...

I'm gonna order a couple chains from bailey's cause I also want to get a nylon helmet screen I'm gonna see if I can mount to the petzl frame. If not, I'll order a Husky helmet, and use the nylon instead of the provided steel screen. It's cheap enough. Are all .325nk chains compatible with a saw like this, or do they do something weird like the ⅜"lp somehow being a different pitch than ⅜" standard? I ask, cause Husqvarna makes a .325nk Xcut chain. I'd like to try that both for the cheaper price, and I want to see how their chain performs. I haven't run an Xcut yet. They say it's made for small battery saws, but that doesn't mean it's made for *this* battery saw. Milwaukee branded packaging(same Oregon chain) is ridiculous. They want $30/chain :^S
 
I'm pretty sure my replacement chainnwas around $20 on Amazon. I didn't realize the stock Milwaukee setup is already Speedcut Nano. Not sure that is compatible with other. 325 chains.

To realize this saws potential, you'll want to dog it in push it.
 
I'm gonna order the Xcut, and I'll report back. They use a bunch of proprietary words, but I think it all boils down to reduced sized cutters on a 0.043 chassis. I can't find anywhere online where a user said "I put the Husky SP21G chain on my Milwaukee, and it was... ? ". All these products are very new, so there isn't likely to be much community knowledge around them.

My interest in doing this is three fold. I don't like Oregon chain much. I think the steel's too soft. Secondly, I just want to try the Xcut, and compare it to Stihl, which imo, is the undisputed champion of chain; at least compared to the older brands everybody knows. Third, being tied to a single manufacturer for supplies makes me uneasy. I like to have options available in case things go south for whatever reason.

Baileys prices for the 59dl chain are $16.99 for the Xcut & $20.99 for Oregon.
 
I have not. The battery came out of the box too dead to cut with(1 bar). I also want to try to hold off til my Baileys order gets here. I'll then have the Xcut chain to compare with the Oregon, and I can compare them in OOTB condition. Assuming the Xcut is somewhere close to fitting, I want to take a bunch of pictures, and do some test cuts and post results. Might be interesting for someone, cause I couldn't find anyone using the Xcut on the Milwaukee with my less than thorough online search.
Have you had a chance to run the saw yet? I'm curious to see what people who have more top handle experience than me think about it. It's great for what I'm using it for, but that is ground based.
 
I picked up some Hyperclimb to replace the drenaLine that I bought initially for the Akimbo, many moons ago. I like it.



Just used an old vinyl 20 oz throw bag for manipulating my throw line in a draggy deodora cedar at home (coffee break, now). Works a treat. Worth having a really heavy, slick bag, once in a long while, IME.
 
Have you had a chance to run the saw yet? I'm curious to see what people who have more top handle experience than me think about it. It's great for what I'm using it for, but that is ground based.
It'll probably be this weekend. My stuff from baileys is supposed to come today, and I want to document the two chains in as-shipped condition. The new truck has a sticking caliper on the right rear, and will probably go in the shop tomorrow afternoon. That means I'll likely be hanging around the house all weekend, and it'll give me a chance to run the saw. I don't think I'll be climbing, though it's a non zero chance, but I can race the two different chains, and I had a locust branch come down in a storm, so breaking that down will give me a little idea how nimble it is.

I'm thinking not very nimble. Right now, I'm thinking the saw's place will be by the chipper, and for times I want to reduce noise a bit. It can be used as a light pruner just to keep noise down, but it's better matched to bigger wood(as long as the power rating holds true). Mike's little makita is a fine trim saw, and works good by the chipper, but it's Mike's. I should have my own electric, and I think the bigger saw is a better match for my needs. It may also become my "big" truck saw to replace Ol' Smokey. Not sure about that yet. I have a few saws I can jostle around for that position. I have to run it all through my head, and figure out which way I want to go with it.
 
I picked up some Hyperclimb to replace the drenaLine that I bought initially for the Akimbo, many moons ago. I like it.



Just used an old vinyl 20 oz throw bag for manipulating my throw line in a draggy deodora cedar at home (coffee break, now). Works a treat. Worth having a really heavy, slick bag, once in a long while, IME.
I'm gonna use this opportunity to pimp the Pulsar again...


It isn't super slick, but has great bounce. Really nice for manipulation. There's the other lighter ones too, but I think going heavy makes the most sense. Set the line with a regular bag, drop it and swap in the Pulsar, then put it where you want. It's expensive, but it's a worthwhile tool to keep in the bag.
 
Yeah, try not to bounce it off something with a big shot...lol

I love having a 20oz for isolating on rough bark. Shoots better through dense interior live oak canopy where a 16oz will come right back off the supple springy brush. PUNCH IT THROUGH LADS!
I keep a 20 in each cube along with a 16.
The little guys are in my climb bag for when needed for height.
 
Got my stuff from baileys. I'm gonna have to mod the faceshield, but I think it'll work. There's still a tiny bit of life left in the petzl, so I'm gonna use that up completely before I use it as a template to install notches in the husky.

Here's the two chains. They look virtually identical(husky on top oregon below)...

IMG_20241003_183442074.jpg Closer on husky...

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Closer on oregon...

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Rakers & safety bumpers look very similar. Both have top plates 7mm long and 5mm high measured with a simple ruler. The oregon has oil scavenging grooves in the drivelinks while the husky is more primitive blank steel. Not sure how big a difference that makes, but stihl and oregon think it's good enough to include. Probably more important for stihl due to their stingy oilers.

Overall, I think the oregon's a better looking chain. Nicer grinding, better finish, and oil scavenging drivelinks. Durability remains to be seen. If anyone wants a different pic, or some kind of measurement, just ask.
 
Unusual... I was just looking at the husky box, and it says made in USA. Also, the website says Xcut, the packing slip says Xcut, but the box says Xprecision. I'm wondering if it's just rebranded oregon? I thought husky's chain factory was in Sweden?

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edit:
Just went on Husky's site, and they say their self made Xcut chain is in their Swedish factory. The chain I have is oregon, or possibly carlton. Carlton uses the more primitive drivelinks also. Not sure if I should waste my time speedtesting them. Geometrically, they look the same, and only the finish is slightly different. This was a couple bucks cheaper than the oregon, so I'll call it a trivial win, but I still won't have tried the Xcut :^/

edit2:
FFS. They list the Xprecision with their Xcut chain, which implies it *is* Xcut chain, but their chain factory is in Sweden, while the Xprecision is US made. They can't both be right. This shit's annoying. Don't have this trouble with stihl. It's all made by stihl, and it's all Swiss made. None of this lower bidder shit, or whatever husky's doing.
 
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I like the grooves, not only for their function but also because they are another tiny sign of modern human's phenomenal manufacturing abilities - blasting them lines in effortlessly (with a laser?) which would be prohibitive for lesser developed societies
 
Got my stuff from baileys. I'm gonna have to mod the faceshield, but I think it'll work. There's still a tiny bit of life left in the petzl, so I'm gonna use that up completely before I use it as a template to install notches in the husky.

Here's the two chains. They look virtually identical(husky on top oregon below)...

View attachment 141773Closer on husky...

View attachment 141774View attachment 141775

Closer on oregon...

View attachment 141776View attachment 141777

Rakers & safety bumpers look very similar. Both have top plates 7mm long and 5mm high measured with a simple ruler. The oregon has oil scavenging grooves in the drivelinks while the husky is more primitive blank steel. Not sure how big a difference that makes, but stihl and oregon think it's good enough to include. Probably more important for stihl due to their stingy oilers.

Overall, I think the oregon's a better looking chain. Nicer grinding, better finish, and oil scavenging drivelinks. Durability remains to be seen. If anyone wants a different pic, or some kind of measurement, just ask.
Hard to say for sure, but looking at the pic of the husky chain, that one cutter looks like it might have been burned a bit in it's manufacturer's sharpening.
 
Hard to say for sure, but looking at the pic of the husky chain, that one cutter looks like it might have been burned a bit in it's manufacturer's sharpening.
Are you looking at the side plate? I think it's just a shadow from the gnarly burr on there. Top plate's the same. I don't typically study my new chains like I did these, but I thought the grinding left a bit to be desired. Looks like it was hit with an overaggressive file or something. Pretty harsh for OOTB chain from a big name.
 
I was specifically looking at the color of the ground surface of the side plate in your second pic. That may or may not be accurately represented in the photo. But if it did get hot and that is general to the whole chain, then that could affect the temper and thus the wear the teeth provide.

And yes, the burring is definitely visible too. That's not great, but easily remedied.
 
Took the saw out today for a little nonsense work. I broke down the locust branch, and mostly cut a Swedish candle. I didn't get as far as I'd like due to the battery overheating.

### Things I like ###

Everything related to the b&c is on the saw body. Nothing is on the clutch cover. That means it's very easy to get the b&c mounted. Put the b&c on, tension it close, then put on the cover and finish tensioning it. Saws like the 2511 have the tension stuff in the cover, and it makes more stuff to get lined up to get the saw together.

Onboard scrench. The benefit is obvious. My newer poulans both had one, but they weren't mounted as well, and I lost one in the woods. This one appears to have a solid mount, and I think it'll stay in place well for typical treework. Instead of black it should be something bright though. Form over function amirite? :^D

Good power. It never wanted to stall. I had the bar mostly buried in spruce for the candle, and it never hesitated.

Quiet(ish).

### Neutral(may be good or bad. Depends on perspective. Some are inherent with the tech) ###

You really notice the slower chain speed on small stuff. If you don't cut it at a union, it really whips the limbs around and makes an ugly cut.

Heavy. I wouldn't want to spend a day pruning with this saw. It's comfortable with two hands, but feels unwieldy with one. Also, the slower chain makes it a poor match for light pruning.

### Things I don't like ###

The battery overheated. I was pushing it hard ripping the spruce, so it was just going for a long period, but it gives me pause. I don't know if I'd be comfortable taking this saw out to fell a couple 14" trees in the summer far away from the truck with a single battery. I'll have to give it more time and consideration though. Making Swedish candles is outside the limits of real work, so maybe blocking down something like a pine would be fine? I'd be irritated if I was up a tree on spurs, and the saw told me it didn't feel like working anymore.

That gets to battery life. I'm down to two bars cutting a medium size locust branch, and a small Swedish candle. I wouldn't want to run electric exclusively. It has it's place, and it has useful attributes, but I don't think it's a perfect replacement for gas.

No captive bar nut. It's 2024; There's no reason not to use captive nuts on every saw, from the cheapest to the most expensive. If they want to position this as a pro tool, a captive bar nut is mandatory.

The sound. Though it's fairly quiet, I really dislike the sound of electric tools. It sounds like a dental drill for a brontosaurus :^D My neighbors probably appreciate it more, but I prefer the sound of a 2stroke.

### Uncertain ###

The safety switch is interesting. It's a lever on top that pushes forward, and you grip it to the saw handle to allow the saw to work. Makes it easy to just pick up and use, but it has to gripped deliberately. Making long reaches with the saw where you might have a lighter grip on the top handle can allow the switch to come up and you won't be able to squeeze the trigger.

The alternative is a power button. Something to push every time you want to use a saw, but you push it, and it's done til it times out. That has safety considerations if you aren't diligent about setting the chainbrake. I could see someone getting in trouble grabbing a live saw before the switch times out and getting cut. That requires people doing things wrong, but that's what people do, right?

I'd have to use both styles over a period of time to know which I prefer.

### Final thoughts ###

I'm happy with the saw. It does what I need it to do, and it does it pretty well. I don't think it's gonna be a truck saw. I prefer the reliability of gas, and a gas saw will work all day on fuel I can easily carry in the field, at little cost. I'd have to have a few batteries stashed in the truck to be ready for anything, and that's like $1k in easily thieveable fuel to keep around, and make sure it's topped up. If I decide I want to use a different truck saw than Ol' Smokey, I'm leaning towards kicking the ms170 out of the house. I'm not super fond of that saw, though it is pretty. I think the Milwaukee beats it for power, but the 170 would beat the Milwaukee in a marathon.

edit:
One other thing that doesn't pertain directly to this saw. I'd like to see a charger that has selectable power that ranges from glacial to ultrafast. Nobody does this, but it would go a long way to getting the most out of the batteries. Batteries should be charged as slowly as possible, and below max capacity, though that last point isn't practical with tools. You should be able to charge ultrafast on the jobsite when the tool *must* work, then when you get home, you set the charge to glacial, and get them topped up overnight.
 
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Yeah the battery ones aren't designed for full on heavy cutting, too much battery draw all at once, so if I'm doing firewood with mine I'll just split for awhile to let it cool off. There's also a huge power difference between the 1 battery and 2 battery saws, my bigger one takes 2 batteries and pushes a 16" decently, obviously far more power than the single battery 12". Makita is better at almost everything over milwaukee imo, especially chainsaws since they own dolmar (who invented the gas chainsaw btw). The power button turns on and off, chain brake locks the saw out, adjustable oiler, and the small climbing saw doesn't have captive nuts most likely for weight considerations, but my 16" has everything built into the clutch cover so that's nice since you don't need any other tools.
 
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