The axe thread

  • Thread starter Thread starter davidwyby
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I quit trying to smash wedges, I just give them a moderate tap, and add more wedges if the ones in use snug up without advancing. I'd rather not mushroom the wedged or ax if I can avoid it.
 
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If you don’t have to hit them hard enough to mushroom, you’re not really wedging 😁

I do agree on multiples…but a timber faller can only carry so many. Maybe you saw my 4’ back weighted oak…I think I had 10 in it, 5 double stacked.
 
5 is a good number, I tend to keep 5 handy. Once you divide the work between 5, it gets a lot easier on you, the axe, and the wedges. Plus, by the time you cycle through a hit or 2 on 5 wedges, the tree has had enough time to move and decompress off of the 1st. Otherwise you could end up driving 1 or 2 in faster than the tree wants to go. Accelerating something as heavy as a tree with poor leverage, coupled with wood compression and the hinge fatigue, can be a slow process. Once I wedged over a 20ft tall 3ftDBH log over to a steep angle. I ran out of wedges to double stack, and they were driven in as far as I could get them. The hinge fatigued 10min later and it fell. It already had what I thought was a dangerously thin hinge under 1", and I didn't want the side lean to send it towards some valuables.
 
You'll never mushroom an axe or maul on plastic or hardhead falling wedges, no matter how hard you drive them. That will only happen with steel wedges, most usually when splitting rounds or making posts or rails.

An axe is not forged with hitting steel as a normal use in mind. Mauls and sledges are. Hitting a steel splitting wedge with an axe really is an improper use of the tool.
 
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No but the build process looked awesome.

I haven't used an axe in decades. I use a hatchet for kindling and use a hammer for pounding wedges and a sledge hammer for knocking out large face cuts.
 
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