The axe thread

  • Thread starter Thread starter davidwyby
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Lot of work for an ash handle :^P

Seriously, I wouldn't put that kind of effort into ash unless I was just practicing to make hickory handles.

Does any other wood make a credible axe handle? Oak? Ironwood?
 
Maul kerf cut too deep
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So this is more about eucalyptus. I try to split on my side of the round, but also have to work in parallel to the rings…and every once in a while a kindling side piece will split off and get the handle. The stuff is harder than the handle and it’s end grain. Gonna have to wrap with steel. This is an Aussie block splitter on spotted gum. A lot of that was uneducated teens too.


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American maul, one kindling hit.

Center punch, wrecked that handle. Wood seems pretty soft.
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i would prefer a drawknife over a spokeshave. with s drawknife you can do rougher cuts and finer cuts and with a spokesshave only fine
 
I'm not really comfy with this split/wedge mounting system. It obviously works, but I find that it weakens the handle where the wood is the thinnest and the most solicited That hurts my mechanical sens! :lol:
At least, use a real split, not a saw kerf (too much fibers compromised).
 
I have many hundreds of hours using the small broad axe. The Collins did a lot of chopping before the handle sheared off. Chopping white oak joists takes it's toll on man and tool. The short 3 1/2 # was a perk from a former boss. One of my instructors said a short handled axe was ideal for chopping joinery. It's a Snow and Neally, and it cost more than all the others combined excepting the Gransfors Carpenters Axe in the sheath. I hung all the others, including the adze, but not the Gransfors or big broad, myself, as every head came to me dull, no handle, and free.

I haven't tried the big broad axe yet. It is shaving sharp, ready for wood!

 
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