ChrisCampo
Treehouser
Please see the spec sheet and the product link below:
Arbo Space LPX 1/2" (12.7mm)
Looking for a top-quality rigging sling that won't let you down? Look no further than Arbo Space LPX 12 Strand Hollow Braid! This rope is made from the best materials on the market, and our special coating ensures maximum abrasion resistance. Plus, our rigging slings hug trees perfectly and have...
www.arbospace.com
Hi Chaps,
spliced up a loopie out of 5mts sampson 12 strand tennex, and then with the other 5mts made an ultra sling with an arbpro ring using 3 brummels 6" eye spacing, ran out of room at the end, so just did 3 brummels and then buried the tail, quick whip lock and burnt the end strands, not pretty, but didnt want to loose the last eye of the sling.
It was the splicing forum that drew me here some years ago now, and have learned lots and have a never ending list of things to learn.
pics of the loopie.
Yes, I used some of the wifes knitting needles that were no longer needed, they make excellent fids.
and the ultra sling with ring
spliced up a loopie out of 5mts sampson 12 strand tennex, and then with the other 5mts made an ultra sling with an arbpro ring using 3 brummels 6" eye spacing, ran out of room at the end, so just did 3 brummels and then buried the tail, quick whip lock and burnt the end strands, not pretty, but didnt want to loose the last eye of the sling.
It was the splicing forum that drew me here some years ago now, and have learned lots and have a never ending list of things to learn.
pics of the loopie.
Yes, I used some of the wifes knitting needles that were no longer needed, they make excellent fids.
and the ultra sling with ring
Mesquite
Treehouser
@Jonny I finally figured out what to do with all that 5/8 tenex you sent me.
I made a dead eye for my porty. Not pictured. The rest I cut in half, to make a loopie and an ultra sling. They can be set around a 2 foot diameter chunk when they are maxed out. Perfect size for canopy slings around her. Everyone always talks about how much they love their ultras, I figured I I better see what all the fuss is aboot!
I made a dead eye for my porty. Not pictured. The rest I cut in half, to make a loopie and an ultra sling. They can be set around a 2 foot diameter chunk when they are maxed out. Perfect size for canopy slings around her. Everyone always talks about how much they love their ultras, I figured I I better see what all the fuss is aboot!
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Mesquite
Treehouser
@Mesquite
its an arbpro ring, I rekon its near the size of the notch no2 ring, see the pics for model number and specs.
Center will take a 16mm/ 5/8 rope, the inner dia is 25mm (edited for typo), going by memory, so 3/4 would get thru it, but I will use it for 5/8 or less as a redirect mainly.
Have the DMM pinto for smaller rigging, but interested in using it in place of the pinto.
Have my eye on a notch no3 thimble to make an ultra in the 3/4 tennex ive got, seems each time I save up for them, they go up in price, dont get me started on saving for the 3/4 rigging block like isc, dmm, notch.
Cant believe how cheap those things are on the other side of the pond, the recent jumps in inflation etc certainly haven't helped either.
I really like how simple the single braid is to splice up, but enjoy the tech side of the double braid process more.
Some 16mm with larger eyes made for small porty and block point in tree as per sampson class 1 vid.
yet to be lock stitched in the photos.
closer pic, was yet to load it up, but shows the bury a bit better, camera angle dosent help with some pics, where it looks wrong or uneven, just waxed some twine to do a quick basic whip on the end too.
its an arbpro ring, I rekon its near the size of the notch no2 ring, see the pics for model number and specs.
Center will take a 16mm/ 5/8 rope, the inner dia is 25mm (edited for typo), going by memory, so 3/4 would get thru it, but I will use it for 5/8 or less as a redirect mainly.
Have the DMM pinto for smaller rigging, but interested in using it in place of the pinto.
Have my eye on a notch no3 thimble to make an ultra in the 3/4 tennex ive got, seems each time I save up for them, they go up in price, dont get me started on saving for the 3/4 rigging block like isc, dmm, notch.
Cant believe how cheap those things are on the other side of the pond, the recent jumps in inflation etc certainly haven't helped either.
I really like how simple the single braid is to splice up, but enjoy the tech side of the double braid process more.
Some 16mm with larger eyes made for small porty and block point in tree as per sampson class 1 vid.
yet to be lock stitched in the photos.
closer pic, was yet to load it up, but shows the bury a bit better, camera angle dosent help with some pics, where it looks wrong or uneven, just waxed some twine to do a quick basic whip on the end too.
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Jonny
Treehouser
Check out rings from Elevation Canada, pretty good price and they’re pretty much the same as every other ring. 60$C so around 47$ US for the size 3.
BLACK RIGGING RING SIZE 3
Elevation Canada Black Hard Coated Rigging rings are made with high-strength anodized aluminium. Perfect for making retrievable false crotches, slings, or other rigging slings. In some applications they can replace a rigging block. Size 3 is good for ropes 1/2'' to 7/8'' Maxium break...
elevationcanada.com
Mesquite
Treehouser
I had bought these heavy-duty Thimbles months ago, finally figured might as well make something out of them and I needed a friction saver. I made it with 3/8 tenex tec, I gave it the straight bury treatment, the buries over lap in the middle by a good amount. I still need to finalize with some whipping of some sort.
How do you finish the whipping so it doesnt come loose after abuse? Do you use a knot? Or just a lil melt and stick action? Epoxy?
How do you finish the whipping so it doesnt come loose after abuse? Do you use a knot? Or just a lil melt and stick action? Epoxy?
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Burnham
Woods walker
Whipping might be considered sacrificial. Just tucked and pulled down underneath the wraps is a solid finish. If it gets ragged or loose, just redo it. Mostly, it'll last a long time.
Those thimbles are galvanized, yes? I think you might find they are not as smooth as could be desired and may wear on a running rope. Perhaps a really easy and careful hand with a round file might knock off any rough bits. Of course, that'll impact rust resistance if you do. In your climate, probably not a problem. But that's something I'd look at.
Otherwise, looks great.
Those thimbles are galvanized, yes? I think you might find they are not as smooth as could be desired and may wear on a running rope. Perhaps a really easy and careful hand with a round file might knock off any rough bits. Of course, that'll impact rust resistance if you do. In your climate, probably not a problem
. But that's something I'd look at.Otherwise, looks great.
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Mesquite
Treehouser
Thanks for the info Mr Burns. i think they are hdg, i was just messing around about it being a friction saver but after looking at them i think they will do the job. Like you said there is a couple of places that isnt the smoothest so i will smooth it out and give it a shot. Im going to try them for riggin. You never know they could be the new $1 rigging ring. I figured just some light fun. I was also planning to use it as a rigging prusik, and an anchor. Multi use is the name of the game.
Burnham
Woods walker
Sorry...what is hdg?
Mesquite
Treehouser
Hot dip galvanized
Burnham
Woods walker
Thanks...I should have figured that out.
Mesquite
Treehouser
In the first picture, This is an end of my newest piece of hitch cord. I put a eye on one end and seizing method 2 in samsons terms on the other. I did not measure out the lenght the old fashion way. i tied a friction hitch extremely longer than practical and then tied an anchor knot and gave it a few more inches and i figured it would be long enough. I made it to try kyles helical hitch. If i can set and dress it correctly it is a very nice riding friction hitch! The second pic is the eye on my extremely to long hitch cord.
Third pic is the tether for my cmi pulley rope wrench, it is 8 inches long and you cant tell what splices where used but on one end i have locking brummel and on the other i have one side passing through itself 3 or 4 times. That is one reason why all the whipping the other is to make the tether stiffer. Also In the third pic the friction hitch is my extremely longer than practicle set up in a 5-7 vt and still has about 7-10 inches after knot.
I also have had issues with my whipping coming lose and i dont know exact reasons, it could be the thread i used streached or i have thought that maybe it has something to do with the rope streaching or doing something funny. What i have started to do is coat the whipping with clead guerilla glue. the clear stuff which is actually fantastic stuff. Its Not the white stuff. It stays clear after hardening and doesnt expand like
The original stuff. I believe the in the first pic i had already coated the seizing. I had covered the exposed rope pase the seizing and when i made the cut it i kept the end on both sides of the cut nice and clean and there has been no fraying yet.
Third pic is the tether for my cmi pulley rope wrench, it is 8 inches long and you cant tell what splices where used but on one end i have locking brummel and on the other i have one side passing through itself 3 or 4 times. That is one reason why all the whipping the other is to make the tether stiffer. Also In the third pic the friction hitch is my extremely longer than practicle set up in a 5-7 vt and still has about 7-10 inches after knot.
I also have had issues with my whipping coming lose and i dont know exact reasons, it could be the thread i used streached or i have thought that maybe it has something to do with the rope streaching or doing something funny. What i have started to do is coat the whipping with clead guerilla glue. the clear stuff which is actually fantastic stuff. Its Not the white stuff. It stays clear after hardening and doesnt expand like
The original stuff. I believe the in the first pic i had already coated the seizing. I had covered the exposed rope pase the seizing and when i made the cut it i kept the end on both sides of the cut nice and clean and there has been no fraying yet.
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Mesquite
Treehouser
Mesquite
Treehouser
I was wondering if anyone has spliced 12 strand hollow braid like this. What i did was made a whoopie splice how the cord runs inside itself and then the tail got tucked after i had made the eye. With the tail tuck i went down a couple of picks before tucking i didnt think i could fit it in the same hole.
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Marc-Antoine
TreeHouser
Super thick heat shrink and layed with hotglue inside. With just the bare tube, it will slide on the rope, even if well shrinked.
Shouldn’t be any problems doing it that way, probably makes the eye four times the strength of the line itself.
Mesquite
Treehouser
I made this beauti last night. I teally enjoy splicing, it helps me wind down at night. But anyways i found myself looking at these kind of prusik loops in catalogs and so i decided im going to make it. I sure am glad that i decided to buy that 100ft of tenex tec a while ago, i have been able to splice till my hearts content. On the eye i did two sets of locking brummels and a end to end buy samsons instructions. I feel as if the brummels are the best ones to date. But i dont think i followed the two pick rule after each brummel. What i did was pull the rope back hard before i picked out where i will enter for the next brummel. That way it made for a nice and tight weave/pattern. I will let you know how thr whipping holds up after putting some real weight on it. I am hoping the whipping will help with keeping a better bend radius. Hopefully it just doesnt fold up. I have been suprised how strong a good whipping is.
What are good friction hitches that can be used with this type of prusik?
What are good friction hitches that can be used with this type of prusik?
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The way you’re using it, one locked brummel would be enough to trap the thimble.
Not too many loop friction hitches, Prusik and the Klemheist, that you show, another is the shackle end coming from the top going through the whipped bight starting the wraps at the bottom, would be the Hedden Hitch.
Not too many loop friction hitches, Prusik and the Klemheist, that you show, another is the shackle end coming from the top going through the whipped bight starting the wraps at the bottom, would be the Hedden Hitch.
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BeerGeek
Tree Numbnutz
Ohhh Brocky, all hail your new avatar!!!
Add-on: Yes, very big Warner Bros. cartoon fan.
Add-on: Yes, very big Warner Bros. cartoon fan.
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Mesquite
Treehouser
These two are my first two double braid splices Ever! YeeHaawww!!! 3/8 stablebraid is very fantastic for first time. me, cherry popped good! Me love long time. Im suprised how easy it was to follow SAMSONS video. I got this rope on clearance from wesspur and i had be looking for light rigging rope. I originally made the bigger of the two so i could girth it to the snap but then i got home and wanted to splice so i tied eyed to snap. I think i should cut rope in half, that way i can end to end splice 
the factor 55 fid worked like a champ splicing this stuff
How do you know when milking the eye, do you know when its done? And when you can get some more? Any tips on it?
the factor 55 fid worked like a champ splicing this stuffHow do you know when milking the eye, do you know when its done? And when you can get some more? Any tips on it?
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