Nutball
TreeHouser
Maybe they put it in the mailbox of whoever lives 27min before you on the route. Possibly a similar name or address number.
How'd it go today?
- Thread starter MasterBlaster
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Dave Shepard
Square peg, round world.
That's my guess. I'm on West Road. I've gotten the same number East Road's mail before.
@CurSedVoyce Try smaller whips, aka less movement if you can. With 7018 and 6013 you should be able to drag the rod on the metal, flux gently resting on it, and with enough drag angle that the slag and molten metal flows back behind you and keeps the rod lit. You can also hover right above too, and have to do so if your weaving it, and sometimes that's easier depending on the position (probably easier to learn that way first). The rod size in decimal form is roughly your heat with 7018, so 3/32 = .093 aka around 90 amps (75 to 95), 1/8 = .125 so 125 amps (115 to 135), use smaller sizes if you aren't flat on top so you can control it better at first. If you're using 6010 or 6011 use the heat setting for the next size down 7018 (so 1/8" would be around 90), and try to do a smooth continuous bead so it seals good, a bit longer arc length with 6010 and it'll flow in there beautifully, and have a slight drag angle to help it flow behind you just like before.
You can whip back and forth or do circles but that is only to manually cool the puddle to keep it under more control, the whip stacked dimes thing is greatly exaggerated all over online, it's formed by the freezing action of the puddle as it's coaxed along, not intentionally done or even sought after. Think a row of dimes pushed over but still super tight, much tighter spacing if the ideal of perfectly smooth can't be achieved. Certain welding processes and procedures can cause them, but they're not really what you want even with 6010, especially when welding pressure stuff. These are some pictures of what you're looking for with stick, notice how tight the ripples are, and that's because you're trying to make it as smooth as possible, simply letting the puddle fill in the weld behind the arc as you creep forward, any movements are done just to control the heat and to make it more consistent. Here's some of mine done with better dc machines, but that's what you're shooting for, and gives you an idea of what you're after. You're getting there man, just keep burning rods! And probably take the screwed stuff apart if you can, it can swell with the heat and gall them up, or burn out the tape and dope and make it leak. If that's not feasible keep a wet rag on it to keep heat away from the threads as much as possible, and use 7018 so it's more ductile because of the rapid cooling. If you're getting bubbles (porosity) it's probably from the oil, acetone on a rag will clean it up pretty well so that won't happen.
7018
6010,6011
You can whip back and forth or do circles but that is only to manually cool the puddle to keep it under more control, the whip stacked dimes thing is greatly exaggerated all over online, it's formed by the freezing action of the puddle as it's coaxed along, not intentionally done or even sought after. Think a row of dimes pushed over but still super tight, much tighter spacing if the ideal of perfectly smooth can't be achieved. Certain welding processes and procedures can cause them, but they're not really what you want even with 6010, especially when welding pressure stuff. These are some pictures of what you're looking for with stick, notice how tight the ripples are, and that's because you're trying to make it as smooth as possible, simply letting the puddle fill in the weld behind the arc as you creep forward, any movements are done just to control the heat and to make it more consistent. Here's some of mine done with better dc machines, but that's what you're shooting for, and gives you an idea of what you're after. You're getting there man, just keep burning rods! And probably take the screwed stuff apart if you can, it can swell with the heat and gall them up, or burn out the tape and dope and make it leak. If that's not feasible keep a wet rag on it to keep heat away from the threads as much as possible, and use 7018 so it's more ductile because of the rapid cooling. If you're getting bubbles (porosity) it's probably from the oil, acetone on a rag will clean it up pretty well so that won't happen.
7018
6010,6011
Maximalist
Treehouser
Today I took a walk in one of the parks of St. Petersburg -
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CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
@Tree09
Kyle, I wish I was younger and did it more.
Its like I just about get where I can run the stick 1/2 way nice (when my shakey hands and eyes co operate) then take a year off.
Ain't pretty, but leak is fixed for now. Factory weld (real pretty) cracked or seperated from one side. We kept cooling it as I went and opened the valve so pressure would run back to tank. We might just buy a new cylinder later in the summer. I keep thinking, if I switch that out, I'll project that one. I do not like the design. No clear way how to open the cylinder to rebuild it.
Kyle, I wish I was younger and did it more.
Its like I just about get where I can run the stick 1/2 way nice (when my shakey hands and eyes co operate) then take a year off.
Ain't pretty, but leak is fixed for now. Factory weld (real pretty) cracked or seperated from one side. We kept cooling it as I went and opened the valve so pressure would run back to tank. We might just buy a new cylinder later in the summer. I keep thinking, if I switch that out, I'll project that one. I do not like the design. No clear way how to open the cylinder to rebuild it.
Dave Shepard
Square peg, round world.
I went to the PO this morning and told then my package was not delivered. They took my tracking number and came back in a couple minutes and said that, yes, it had been delivered to the wrong address, and that it would be retrieved and delivered today. It seems that a precise GPS tag is recorded when they scan the package at the delivery point. It was in my mailbox this afternoon.
It looks like you can get a spanner wrench in the end of the cylinder, that's how you get welded ones opened. Def get a cheater lens, I'm only 41 and been using one for a couple years now, in tight spots I got to where i can't get my head far enough away to see it, it all just becomes a blur. And yes it's easier to learn when you're younger, and it does take time, but the more you do it the easier it is. Save scrap from your travels and jobs (random junk is often at different jobs you may do, inquiring about stuff laying around has scored me many great finds, and thankful people that i hauled stuff away for them), even the big box stores have steel pipe gas line, I've built plenty of stuff from that. If you can think of something to build and grab scrap for it or budget material, the next thing you know you've got what you wanted for a bunch less.
Make some tools for the mini, maybe a big log arch that you can use with the mini to move and load far more than the mini will pick, or a big log dolly like @flushcut did, either of those would be as cheap as an old axle and some pipe or something, and would give you more material handling capabilities than you currently have, making you more profitable. I've most of my stuff for the tree business and around the house, and i build stuff all the time for work at work too, including a big weighted base for the core drill so i don't have to set an anchor on smaller floor holes. The more you use it the more you'll find yourself using it as a tool for a bunch more than you ever anticipated, and won't hesitate to whip up your own tools as needed, or use it in ways you didn't think of before, like cutting u joints to pull parts or work on stuff.
Make some tools for the mini, maybe a big log arch that you can use with the mini to move and load far more than the mini will pick, or a big log dolly like @flushcut did, either of those would be as cheap as an old axle and some pipe or something, and would give you more material handling capabilities than you currently have, making you more profitable. I've most of my stuff for the tree business and around the house, and i build stuff all the time for work at work too, including a big weighted base for the core drill so i don't have to set an anchor on smaller floor holes. The more you use it the more you'll find yourself using it as a tool for a bunch more than you ever anticipated, and won't hesitate to whip up your own tools as needed, or use it in ways you didn't think of before, like cutting u joints to pull parts or work on stuff.
Knotorious
That Guy With The Face
I used to be a bit of a hobbyist mycologist, scouring the woods for various mushroom specimens, and photographing them with a macro lens setup and interesting lighting/backdrops/composite photography. Anyways, I'm 95% certain that the mushroom on the tree in those pictures is Laetiporus.
It is a genus of edible mushrooms found throughout much of the world. Some species, especially Laetiporus sulphureus, are commonly known as sulphur shelf, chicken of the woods, the chicken mushroom, or the chicken fungus because it is often described as tasting like and having a texture similar to that of chicken meat.
When it grows on trees as densely as that -- or, rather, on a tree that is still healthy and worth caring for -- it is sometimes already too late and the huge amount of decay that is caused by the mushroom will eventually spread exponentially, making the tree increasingly brittle/weak, and eventually leading to death. Growing up, we had an enormous, beautiful oak tree on our property in Massachusetts that developed a Laetiporus colony and we had to call out an arborist who basically gave the tree a full workup (pruning, removal of the mushrooms, cutting out as much decay as possible, and spraying large portions of the tree with fungicides of some kind if I remember correctly).
Thankfully, we caught it very early, so the tree ended up surviving and is flourishing to this day. I think the arborist may have even used something to seal up the initial entry point, where the mushroom gained entry into the trunk via a puncture or minor area of decay. When the mushrooms were cut off, I ended up eating some (raw and also some cooked with seasoning) and they aren't bad as far as mushrooms go. Definitely a great find in a survival situation!
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
Collect scrap (but nice scrap) all the time. Scored some 4" square the other day. Pretty stout. Not to mention that plate I scored off a deck removal. Holy moly. Heavy shat. Good stuff.
Also, not seeing where a spanner will lock into the cylinder on the end to spin it out. Might have a lock ring.... maybe. No holes in the end for the pegs.
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I made a post here about eating a bit of mushroom off my locust. I weirded out, and had a borderline out of body experience :^D It was just anxiety over eating a mushroom that didn't come from a store. I'm nearly 100% certain it was chicken of the woods, but it probably isn't a great idea to eat one off locust. Locusts are toxic, and I could see a mushroom pulling some of that into it's structure. I don't for fact it would do that, but probably better to not eat stuff off locust.
pigwot
M's, Juniper's, Lowen’s, and Inge’s Grandpa
I thought it was mainly haulback that runs slow over bridge…
I don't know. My networking has always been very weak. Stuff's like voodoo. Most things JustWork™, so I haven't delved in to really figure it out.
flushcut
TreeHouser
The log dolly is really a great tool to have for moving logs. But it is border line too heavy to move by hand, two guys or mini. The foam filled tires really added the weight to it. But seam to take the weight of the logs well with good floatation. I’ve never used the handle I made and probably never will.
Make some tools for the mini, maybe a big log arch that you can use with the mini to move and load far more than the mini will pick, or a big log dolly like @flushcut did, either of those would be as cheap as an old axle and some pipe or something, and would give you more material handling capabilities than you currently have, making you more profitable. I've most of my stuff for the tree business and around the house, and i build stuff all the time for work at work too, including a big weighted base for the core drill so i don't have to set an anchor on smaller floor holes. The more you use it the more you'll find yourself using it as a tool for a bunch more than you ever anticipated, and won't hesitate to whip up your own tools as needed, or use it in ways you didn't think of before, like cutting u joints to pull parts or work on stuff.
I want to make an arb trolly clone but with a narrower axle to accommodate wider tires. But still use 2”x2”x1/4” tube, 2000lb spindles and hubs so it can take some wood. Overkill but hey why not. Then build a nice light bunk and handle out of 14ga tube.
Building shit is cool.
Inspiration pic
Pics got added weird
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
treebilly
Student of the Jedi. OH-7106A
Kind of looks like a type of snap ring in there. I know the box store type splitters are built to discourage repairs.
It’s been a great day. Easy crane removals and then lots of work at the house. Kids all rode around on the four wheelers while the wife and I tended to the garden. Had hot dogs over the fire and now just hanging out listening to music.
It’s been a great day. Easy crane removals and then lots of work at the house. Kids all rode around on the four wheelers while the wife and I tended to the garden. Had hot dogs over the fire and now just hanging out listening to music.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
Yeah, kind of shitty design. But it's what we could afford at the time, years ago.
Kind of like it does not owe me anything. I have two. But the other is only a 21 ton.
Anyway. A new cylinder is more serviceable down the road, but the design still sucks. IF I can afford a 30 ton in the future, I might make it a skid steer attatchment. Break up big rounds right on the ground
Kind of like it does not owe me anything. I have two. But the other is only a 21 ton.
Anyway. A new cylinder is more serviceable down the road, but the design still sucks. IF I can afford a 30 ton in the future, I might make it a skid steer attatchment. Break up big rounds right on the ground
I would clean it out really good, blow it out really good with an air compressor, but what it looks like to me is that's a threaded ring holding it in place. If so then bleed the pressure and take the lines off, and then see if you can tap that around with a screwdriver (or something that fits in there) and hammer, maybe pad it with a little piece of romax wire so you don't dent anything. If it starts spinning you'll know, just walk it around. You could also make a tool to fit it too, i bet they have a video online too.
BlackSmith
Uncivil
Might that be a retaining ring?
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
My feeling on it
Nutball
TreeHouser
With the end of the cylinder being tapered, I think it's a 1 time use ring that gets pressed into place, kind of like a piston pin ring, except there's no way to get the ring out. You'd have to machine the front outer edge of the cylinder off, make a new ring if the old can't be salvaged, weld the cylinder back to full length, and machine the front taper and ring groove. Easy job for that guy in Australia who remanufactures heavy machinery parts.
Thats enough to just swap it with a different make, what sick bastards would come up with something like that!? There's probably a redneck way too, if you got the keeper ring out or destroyed you could pull it, or maybe just cut the other end and weld it back up when you're done or something. I would be tempted to see if i could wash the ring out with a cutting torch, or maybe get it to crack with a chisel if it's not steel, or maybe grind down to a spot from the outside with a cutting wheel to cut it out that way, which wouldn't affect the new ring or seal areas. Last ditch efforts to make it easy enough to do again before ordering a new one that you can rebuild. A taper like that could also be just to help it assemble easier too and push the orings in, there's gotta be a way to get that off.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
Yup. For about 380.00, I can totally eliminate the issue and make it serviceable
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