SeanKroll
Treehouser
Interesting. I will have to open the battery up to see what is inside. I hadn't thought about that option. Can you direct me to a parts source, please?
Line shot through the larger tree and base tied on the larger tree that was up rooting. We secured the continuous puller at the base of the smaller tree it was leaning on for a 2:1 tensioning. The line that was to hold the larger tree then went through a crotch on a large poplar (8" plus limb at trunk) and down to the base of the poplar and through a snatch block as a redirect to the puller. A sling was secured just below the redirect in a cow hitch with a 50kn screw link biner holding a prussic of 3/8ths stable braid that held the 14 mm rope (almost 9/16ths) that came from the larger pine. Once the line was secured by the prussic, the tension was let off at the 2:1 and continuous puller. The smaller pine was more helping support the larger as it leaned into it from storm throw as the root wad was failing on the larger. Just bending the smaller pine but not yet snapping it. Just adding the guy to the larger pine took the weight off the smaller preventing a snap and further root wad failure till the storms passed.What's the setup there? Looks like far leaner is an anchor, and you're cranking on the left tree that has a line going up, then to the close leaner down it's entire length?
Most everything with lithium batteries uses 18650 cells. Ideally you would have an idea of how many amps the device needs, and try to get the lowest discharge rate, highest capacity cells if you want maximum run time. Or, to ensure the cells stay cool, and the motor provides maximum output, go for the highest discharge current rated cells, which have just a little less capacity in most cases. The cells should be spot welded in with a special spot welder You'd need the metal strips they use for connecting them. Or use a big simple 200w soldering iron and copper strips of sufficient thickness. Soldering to the batteries can be tricky. You don't want to overheat the cells, but you don't want a cold solder joint. A thick tipped iron helps having enough stored heat to apply solder to the cell in just 2 seconds or less. Then let it cool, and solder on the tinned copper to the solder you applied to the cell.Interesting. I will have to open the battery up to see what is inside. I hadn't thought about that option. Can you direct me to a parts source, please?
Thanks.Most everything with lithium batteries uses 18650 cells. Ideally you would have an idea of how many amps the device needs, and try to get the lowest discharge rate, highest capacity cells if you want maximum run time. Or, to ensure the cells stay cool, and the motor provides maximum output, go for the highest discharge current rated cells, which have just a little less capacity in most cases. The cells should be spot welded in with a special spot welder You'd need the metal strips they use for connecting them. Or use a big simple 200w soldering iron and copper strips of sufficient thickness. Soldering to the batteries can be tricky. You don't want to overheat the cells, but you don't want a cold solder joint. A thick tipped iron helps having enough stored heat to apply solder to the cell in just 2 seconds or less. Then let it cool, and solder on the tinned copper to the solder you applied to the cell.
Business: The Ultimate AdventureHe got the job, I did not, and the custy regretted it.
So here again....
He approached the HO. I did not refer him. He must have seen us from the road and while "walking his dog" ........
God I love competition.
It is something I'm very aware of, when teaching apprentices.She has a nice straight back in pic 2 which afaik is good ergonomic form. Is that just happenstance or is it something you folks emphasize