Holan bucket truck outriggers, the rebuildening

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  • #101
If they're too friggin' dumb to be able to cut a thread on a manual lathe they're too dumb to do it at all. Holy shit that's next level useless there.
not sure if their manual lathe can cut that exact TPI, ive seen some with probably 70 different threads it will single point tap, and some with 5 or 10, maybe just didnt get lucky today
 
You can do it by hand with a die, you don't even need a lathe. That's how rudimentary cutting a thread is. Give a hand any lathe with a leadscrew and he can single point it to almost any threads per inch you want, you just have to set the gear train for the particular thread. I get that it's probably threaded to a shoulder, but holy crap if you can't do that i bet they're needing someone to flip burgers, probably a safer and more attainable profession for the guy.
 
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  • #103
You can do it by hand with a die, you don't even need a lathe. That's how rudimentary cutting a thread is. Give a hand any lathe with a leadscrew and he can single point it to almost any threads per inch you want, you just have to set the gear train for the particular thread. I get that it's probably threaded to a shoulder, but holy crap if you can't do that i bet they're needing someone to flip burgers, probably a safer and more attainable profession for the guy.
I get that, I think its stupid that had to ask the hydraulic cylinder store if they could do it, they said they knew a guy
I wouldnt want to use a die on threads that big IMO, roughly 1" coarse thread, be a hell of a lot of torque to spin that die, if it were me with my own lathe id tap it to whatever thread works if the lathe wont do the exact right TPI, and just buy 2 nuts that fit

but the one machine shop that even entertained it does almost 100% CNC and im betting just didnt feel like cleaning and moving stuff to get to their manual lathe, didnt want to CNC a single part anyways
 
You need to find some old, retired machinist who ran an independent shop, and still has all his tools out back. Child's play for someone like that.

I know a guy here who could handle it in a second, and enjoy the challenge...but we are on opposite sides of the continent :).
 
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  • #105
You need to find some old, retired machinist who ran an independent shop, and still has all his tools out back. Child's play for someone like that.

I know a guy here who could handle it in a second, and enjoy the challenge...but we are on opposite sides of the continent :).
its getting done now, by whoever the hydraulic shop uses, they said its "no problem"
im just upset by the time I spent on the phone trying to find someone to do it, then had to go to the place that never even said they would, turns out its "no problem"

yikes, nobody wants to work nowadays I guess
 
You can use a die on the lathe, but 1" isn't that bad if you had to. On the lathe you can use the tailstock to help start it and keep it square, and run it in under power or by hand. We cut pipe threads all day everyday on pipe up to 4", no big deal at all, and i won't hesitate to cut up to 1" by hand if i can save a bunch of walking back to the threader. Once upon a time when all thread was just a dream the trades used to cut all our own hanger rods the same way, much more professional looking since the threads are only right where you want them, showing skill in your layout work. Before thread rolling became common every bolt made was threaded with a production die to cut the threads, that was the fastest way to do it.

Are they doing the heat treating too, or sending it out? Might be important info to know if or how much that's hardened, and that might affect how they cut the threads.
 
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  • #107
Are they doing the heat treating too, or sending it out? Might be important info to know if or how much that's hardened, and that might affect how they cut the threads.
no heat treat that im aware of, just plain old stainless off the shelf, it has hardened bushings on it where it slides but thats it, cuts with a sawzall
 
Odd place for stainless with the crevice corrosion, might be worth looking up the spec, especially since it's a lift. Can you cut it with a torch or no?
 
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  • #110
Odd place for stainless with the crevice corrosion, might be worth looking up the spec, especially since it's a lift. Can you cut it with a torch or no?
not a spec of rust on it at all, magnetic, and cuts with a torch so id say its steel of some sort
would rust out though if it were dry like it is and not stainless, drills like steel also
edit:
I handed the pin from the other outrigger over to hydraulic shop guy, and said "make me one" he knows what it does, and what its from, gets them made daily so id say hes a safe enough bet, he would be able to spec it out right
 
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  • #112
Chrome plated maybe, or a high chrome content steel minus the nickel.
maybe, I thought the rust on the parts I cut off was on the hardened ring but I will have to check tomorrow, they are sitting on the truck in the rain so they rust quick, possible that I am wrong, and the pin is infact not stainless
whatever it is, will update when I get my parts back
 
Didn't think so, cool. Stainless doesn't like having a crack or gap that doesn't get air, causes crevice corrosion, so it is very seldom used as a pin.
 
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  • #114
Didn't think so, cool. Stainless doesn't like having a crack or gap that doesn't get air, causes crevice corrosion, so it is very seldom used as a pin.
didnt know that
this is why I came here, the big brain forum :)
 
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  • #117
no update on the cylinder yet, will call and ask about it, im thinking the pin is whats taking a while but still doubt it, I could make it in 30 minutes on a manual lathe assuming I have the right tooling on hand, which is very simple stiff anyone would should have if they run a lathe
 
Depends on the tools involved, and how efficient you are at using them. It can take longer than you'd think to make something on a lathe if the initial size of the material you are working with isn't already very close to the final dimensions. My lathe will easily stall when I'm not expecting it to, or one time I had it bend a 2.5" diameter 6061 rod because I was cutting a little deeper or faster than the rod could handle. I was only trying to cut .015" if I remember correctly. No tailstock support at the time, but it was only about a 4" long rod.
 
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  • #119
Depends on the tools involved, and how efficient you are at using them. It can take longer than you'd think to make something on a lathe if the initial size of the material you are working with isn't already very close to the final dimensions. My lathe will easily stall when I'm not expecting it to, or one time I had it bend a 2.5" diameter 6061 rod because I was cutting a little deeper or faster than the rod could handle. I was only trying to cut .015" if I remember correctly. No tailstock support at the time, but it was only about a 4" long rod.
in the case of this, only an inch and a half out the chuck, around 1" diameter steel, even a light cut you dont have to take off much material, fairly close to an off the shelf size, should go quick
 
I often finished well into the night for a "should be simple" task on the lathe. My poor skill and my junk small lathe aren't stranger to that, but still, the time seems to flow at a different pace.
 
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  • #124
hydraulic shop told me 1 week at most, 2 weeks later im told "wednesday", called on friday and got told "we will call you when its done but we dont know when that will be"
anyone else have this experience? I get having to order seals, but it doesnt take a month
im getting pissed off at this point, I cant even haul chips till the truck is fixed
 
What is nice, is when they tell you two weeks and surprise you with 5 days. Maybe. But parts are not all that available right now.
Society has been living off the shelves and Conex boxes through Covid. Production of little things has not yet surpassed the demand.
 
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