Holan bucket truck outriggers, the rebuildening

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  • #60
flushcut said:
Now to get the pin out.
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gonna stick it in the mill tomorrow and try drilling it out, if that doesnt work then I will probably either borrow a press or send it to the machine shop to get done while the new pin is being made
 
My hydraulic guy actually subleases his shop from the machine shop next door. So for stuff like this I don't need to make an extra trip. I drop it off and they both coordinate and get it done.
 
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  • #62
SkwerI said:
My hydraulic guy actually subleases his shop from the machine shop next door. So for stuff like this I don't need to make an extra trip. I drop it off and they both coordinate and get it done.
Click to expand...
how much on average are we talking for your hydraulic guy to re pack a cylinder, vs ordering the stuff and doing it myself? assuming I can even get it apart to begin with
 
I would assume around 100 an hour, but you're gonna have to call around. You will need certain tools and equipment to do it yourself, and it's one of those things that if you do it wrong you'll get to do it all over again. It's not rocket surgery, but you'll need to know what you're doing a bit before you tear into it, and know how to use heat to break up the locktite they use on about everything. Have you ever done a tie rod type cylinder before? Because this one will likely be a welded one so it's gonna be far harder to do, requiring several hundred foot pounds of torque for disassembly and assembly with a special spanner wrench that needs to be purchased or fabricated first. To do it right you'll also need the equipment to see if stuffs still straight and that all the dimensions are within tolerances before you reassemble it, just like you would for rebuilding an engine or something. Not necessarily hard to do, but you have to be pretty meticulous.
 
And that was exactly something I iterated to a buddy with a dingo. A tad more complicated hydraulic part than a cylinder. But still the same principal.
Drive motor. I bought the kit. The new shaft. Started to disassemble the motor casing. Stopped. Little light came on. That SOB was a biatch to pull out of that little machine. It had fought and fought me. Every step of the way. The very thought that I could screw up the order of the plates and seals inside, or just have it leak soon as I start it back up after reassembly made me cringe inside. I took it to someone and they got it right the first time. Also, they are able to test it prior to giving it back to me.
Told my friend this story.
He bought the parts, how hard can it be? Weeks went by fighting leaks and the process of tearting things down and putting them allllllll back. Finally, he bought a new motor. His was out of tolerance and was beyond what a simple kit would fix.
 
Just taking the gland nut off will require a torch (to heat up to break the locktite), a spanner wrench to fit the nut, braker bars and cheaters roughly 6 feet long, and a metal table substantial enough to hold everything in place to work on it. Then you'll have to hook up either hydraulics or pneumatics to push the plunger out, and be able to catch that without damaging it. More heat and wrenching, then it's time to bust out the indicators and mics to see what's actually going on with it. You'll then fight the seals and rings, installed with the proper assembly grease/oil, and will have to torque components to their required values, which you'll have to look up. Fun fun lol
 
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  • #66
decided to take the day off and learn oxy acetylene welding, no welding tip and zero penetration but hey, its free and fun, my welds are absolute garbage but we all start somewhere
I will probably just call a hydraulic shop and get an idea what they will charge to re pack the cylinder, if its not bad I will take the other side out and do both of them at one time

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WoodCutr said:
how much on average are we talking for your hydraulic guy to re pack a cylinder, vs ordering the stuff and doing it myself? assuming I can even get it apart to begin with
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My guy is very reasonable. He's up to about $150 per cylinder now. When I first started using him about 18 years ago it was $75 per.
 
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  • #71
I called about 10 different machine shops and nobody around here wants to make a pin since it needs threads, the only shop I found that seems to be able to make one wants to charge extra because its a one off
also nobody seems to have a press big enough, so I gotta drill the pin out on the mill, which will suck for long time
perhaps I drill it most of the way out and cut it with the sawzall, or do a weld bead around the inside to shrink it some like ive seen people do with old bearing races
 
Does the pin necessarily need to be threaded? My Altecs were held in place with C clips. Or even if you did a couple big washers and cotter pins on the ends? Nothing says it needs to have threaded nuts. There's no end pressure on the pins other than keeping them from falling out.
 
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  • #74
SkwerI said:
Does the pin necessarily need to be threaded? My Altecs were held in place with C clips. Or even if you did a couple big washers and cotter pins on the ends? Nothing says it needs to have threaded nuts. There's no end pressure on the pins other than keeping them from falling out.
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well, they were threaded from factory and nuts really damn tight, id say there was a reason for it, the pins are way over engineered for something that a $10 tractor drawbar pin could do with no issue
I also want them to match when I sell the truck

not sure why they are threaded so best not find out IMO
 
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  • #75
flushcut said:
Cough cough thermic lance cough cough :P:D
The pin will be an oxidized puddle of metal in minutes.
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cant melt into the cylinder, unless you wanna come buy me a new one, and I dont have the stuff to run one, and cannot afford a setup for it either
 
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