Holan bucket truck outriggers, the rebuildening

[WoodCutr]

Call in a pro it sounds like you are under gunned for this fight. There was a no shame in knowing when to call for backup.

Once I give up, sell the truck, too much to fix on this thing to be worth that kind of money, just seeing what I can do at the moment with what I got for as little as possible

No money coming in right now, slow season so paying a mechanic won't happen

 

[flushcut]

Well, best of luck to you.

 

[WoodCutr]

Worst case I part out the boom, make a log splitter with the lower cylinder and steel sections, and have a mini skid platform behind the cab

 

[BlackSmith]

Does the stuck pin have a grease fitting?

 

[WoodCutr]

Does the stuck pin have a grease fitting?

Nope

On a good note I have the other side pin intact as a template when I get a new one made, it's coming out tomorrow one way or a other, I need my truck back to work asap

 

[Tree09]

If I could get my welder out here I would, no plugin nearby and nowhere near enough amps on 110

This is why i say engine drive! Lol anyways just strip it down the best you can, and use scrap steel and sheet metal, and soaking wet wood to shield the rest. Spray it with water if it's getting hot as you go. If you have to be super precise get the biggest welding touch tip you got. Just heat it up a bit, let it cool a bit, heat it up more, slowly stepping up the heat so you're not gonna crack anything, and help soak the heat thru the parts. Get some regular old paraffin wax that you would use for canning, and just dab it on the joint from time to time during this process. You can even get a bolt for a drift and weld some bs handle on it, smacking that from time to time helps wick that thru breaking up any rust and lubricating the parts. At some point during this process either the parts move or they get destroyed, but usually with some effort and time and the right tools you can get it.

If a press is really hard to use i would revert to my wedges. Go get some leaf springs from a junk truck or car and make yourself some wedges, sharpened by simply grinding them to a very long slight taper then quenching by splashing water to harden them. Then you can beat them in tight spaces with a sledge, just like you would a tree, using several to spread the force so you can keep beating, and to help keep it in alignment/ work it back and forth to help break it loose. You can use shims to help pad surfaces, and to step up the process as you work it free since wedges only work over a short distance.

Moving up the escalation ladder depends on your equipment and skill set. You can destroy the pin, aka lance. You can also cut off the bushings, if you notice those are usually welded on. You can also cut it apart anywhere else you think you can rejoin it, and then simply use a good shop press to help get it apart. Safe to say all of these are squarely in the if you gotta ask you better not camp. You can also just price out the new parts and just torch till you get there, then bolt up new, which honestly is likely the best course. Good luck man, just work slow and think of what could go wrong, and keep some extinguishers close.

 

[flushcut]

More heat! Soak’er down in atf and acetone let it sit overnight, get some localized heat on the pin, hit it with some water don’t drowned it just enough to get a good flash steam, reheat and beat. Repeat.
It might take you a hot minute or all weekend or call around and get a pro out there for 5-600$ out and on your bench in two hours. I’m just shooting from the hip on price but that seems fair to me.

 

[WoodCutr]

This is why i say engine drive! Lol anyways just strip it down the best you can, and use scrap steel and sheet metal, and soaking wet wood to shield the rest. Spray it with water if it's getting hot as you go. If you have to be super precise get the biggest welding touch tip you got. Just heat it up a bit, let it cool a bit, heat it up more, slowly stepping up the heat so you're not gonna crack anything, and help soak the heat thru the parts. Get some regular old paraffin wax that you would use for canning, and just dab it on the joint from time to time during this process. You can even get a bolt for a drift and weld some bs handle on it, smacking that from time to time helps wick that thru breaking up any rust and lubricating the parts. At some point during this process either the parts move or they get destroyed, but usually with some effort and time and the right tools you can get it.

If a press is really hard to use i would revert to my wedges. Go get some leaf springs from a junk truck or car and make yourself some wedges, sharpened by simply grinding them to a very long slight taper then quenching by splashing water to harden them. Then you can beat them in tight spaces with a sledge, just like you would a tree, using several to spread the force so you can keep beating, and to help keep it in alignment/ work it back and forth to help break it loose. You can use shims to help pad surfaces, and to step up the process as you work it free since wedges only work over a short distance.

Moving up the escalation ladder depends on your equipment and skill set. You can destroy the pin, aka lance. You can also cut off the bushings, if you notice those are usually welded on. You can also cut it apart anywhere else you think you can rejoin it, and then simply use a good shop press to help get it apart. Safe to say all of these are squarely in the if you gotta ask you better not camp. You can also just price out the new parts and just torch till you get there, then bolt up new, which honestly is likely the best course. Good luck man, just work slow and think of what could go wrong, and keep some extinguishers close.

thanks for the help, gonna revisit tomorrow after my CPR class, im thinking 18" pipe wrench and a long cheater pipe, if that doesnt work chain it to the skidsteer and give it a twist or 12


I suppose I can drag a generator out and run my welder with that, but I only get 80 amp on 110, no 240V generator for me and the truck is about 50ft too far away from my shop to use my welder cord
the portapower seems like itll work, just not quite strong enough, worst case I can run my plasma cutter off the trucks inverter and air system and start torching stuff apart, just dont want to cut into the turret, or outrigger
between the portapower, PB blaster, skidsteer and pipe wrench I figure itll go, absolute worst case I suppose I can take everything off if I have to and borrow my buddies O/A torch
the other pin seems to be intact, so I can take that to a machine shop and have a copy made, will get that done while im having the cylinder fixed


gonna be completely honest, the reason for not wanting heat is just me being a lazy frig and not wanting to pull things off to make it safe

 

[WoodCutr]

More heat! Soak’er down in atf and acetone let it sit overnight, get some localized heat on the pin, hit it with some water don’t drowned it just enough to get a good flash steam, reheat and beat. Repeat.
It might take you a hot minute or all weekend or call around and get a pro out there for 5-600$ out and on your bench in two hours. I’m just shooting from the hip on price but that seems fair to me.

last time I had a "pro" out to do a boom return hose it cost me $1300, and that was just 4 hours of labor pulling a hose
although that acetone/ATF is friggen amazing stuff, might go mix more up in the AM and soak it down, its cheap so I can go heavy with it

 

[cory]

shit is getting real

 

[WoodCutr]

shit is getting real

very, decided to get a torch, and remove everything, its coming out either solid or liquid now
as much as I didnt want to remove all the wiring and hoses, it seems ive run out of options, the pin is quite hard to the zawzall wont cut it, either I cut it while its cherry red, or melt it out

 

[WoodCutr]

This is why never sieze and grease are your friends!

its getting some never seize before the new one goes back in thats for sure

 

[Tree09]

I would imagine it's hard enough that a file won't even touch it. Some things are just this level of tight and that's kinda how it goes. Rust takes up more volume than iron, so any oxidation at all makes a close fit into a jolly tight mess. I would still be trying to remove the pin, heat, wax, beating, turning and pressing, over and over til it goes. What you're doing is actually crushing the rust and dirt and working it out of the joint until there's enough room to move again.

 

[WoodCutr]

I would imagine it's hard enough that a file won't even touch it. Some things are just this level of tight and that's kinda how it goes. Rust takes up more volume than iron, so any oxidation at all makes a close fit into a jolly tight mess. I would still be trying to remove the pin, heat, wax, beating, turning and pressing, over and over til it goes. What you're doing is actually crushing the rust and dirt and working it out of the joint until there's enough room to move again.

10T press and heat, maybe itll go, if that dont work then I go buy the 20T ram for my portapower and just make stuff to take up the space
at this point im doing what I should have and removing everything thats in the way, might even cut off the mesh behind the cab to get me another 4-5" to play with
if that still doesnt work then IDK what I want to do, revisit with more coffee tomorrow

 

[WoodCutr]

to clarify for anyone reading, the reason heat wasnt an option before is because I was being stupid and lazy, its amazing what getting off your ass can do!

 

[Ryan]

That's more like it!

 

[cory]

Stupid and lazy? We have alot in common

 

[Tree09]

You haven't been lazy, it's simply not knowing because you haven't done this before. I have, on all sorts of equipment from pumps to stir reactors to dozer and excavator pins. I assumed you had a torch since you were attempting this, it's the tool to use if steel parts are stuck together. But you didn't know that, and I'm just some dude on the internet.

 

[WoodCutr]

You haven't been lazy, it's simply not knowing because you haven't done this before. I have, on all sorts of equipment from pumps to stir reactors to dozer and excavator pins. I assumed you had a torch since you were attempting this, it's the tool to use if steel parts are stuck together. But you didn't know that, and I'm just some dude on the internet.

I was being lazy, got access to a torch from a buddy any time I need it, just didnt want to un chain the outrigger, let it extend to get the packing away from the end, remove the holding valve, wiring, hoses, etc

 

[WoodCutr]

yall think this will get it out? maybe if I put it on my portapower?

HCG10004

HCG10004, 1196 ton Capacity, 3.94 in Stroke, Single-Acting, High Tonnage Hydraulic Cylinder

www.enerpac.com

 

[BlackSmith]

“just didnt want to un chain the outrigger, let it extend to get the packing away from the end, remove the holding valve, wiring, hoses, etc”

Everything in life will go smoother after you realize you have to do what needs to be done instead of what you want to do.

 

[lxskllr]

Words of wisdom. I wish I had the time back from all the "shortcuts" I've taken over the years.

 

[Cobleskill]

Or all the time wasted from trying to hurry up on a job.

 

[WoodCutr]

Making good progress, got one end of the pin cut off, heating it to soften the steel

I decided not to chip the frozen leaves out this morning, as they thawed I caught them on fire no big deal just out a fire extinguisher lol, shyte happens


Although I'm half done now, with removal atleast

 

[WoodCutr]

Almost got both sides of the pin cut out, first end took 5 minutes and half a blade, other end took 5 blades, lots of acetylene, and had to go buy more blades
Using 12" blades to have more teeth to wear out, bought some Diablo blades to try