Wood stove in shop

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I have a 12kW diesel genny for backup, so no power worries there. I wouldn't get rid of the existing stoves, though.

If their hot water is running at 180 degrees, something's wrong. :?
 
I think those outdoor boilers are slick for their safety but besides that I prefer a burning hot box or two in the house. Like Scott I enjoy being able to get nice and toasty or back away to somewhere cooler and, I have to sleep in relative coolness.

I find pine to be the worst for pitch out of the softwoods we burn here. I burn alot of pine also fir and birch a little larch, virtually little to no true hardwoods. Pine is the worst and can creosote things up in a hurry, it's all in how you burn though.

I've had woodheat all of my life except for when I was nomadic. Then I had no heat, warm clothes and a goooooood sleeping bag. Lol.

I could never imagine not having wood heat. One of my lifelong dreams is to have like four or five years or more!!! Of wood cut, split, stacked, and sheltered. I still do most of my splitting or atleast final splitting by hand with a maul. I find it very meditative in a sense. It is a very enjoyable ritual I find. Don't get me wrong, I enjoy doing it to heat my own home/shop but, I'm not into doing much more than that.
 
squisher said:
Like Scott I enjoy being able to get nice and toasty or back away to somewhere cooler and, I have to sleep in relative coolness.
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So split it into zones, and each area gets it's own thermostat. Which is what we have already- four zones.
 
Something my wife doesnt understand. She turns the baseboard on in the kid's bedroom and leaves the door open, wonders why it doesnt seem to heat up when the rest of our place is 5C cooler than she wants his room.
 
i don't know if there is an ounce of truth in it, but I have heard a number of times that firewood that has been split and then gets rained on, it smokes less. A big proliferation of wood stoves in these parts over the last few years, part of it is the high energy costs, and a bigger attraction is the so called romance of burning wood, which may or may not have longevity it appears. Lots of problems have occurred in tighter congested places between neighbors, resulting from the smoke....hubbie's underpants have soot on them!!! A friend of mine builds stoves for a living, and does quite well at it. I know when he is busy, as I turn his door hinges on my lathe, and sometimes make the tapered legs for one model. His stoves are quite a bit less than say something like a Vermont Castings, where the stove and installation will run you over ten grand. The cost of double walled pipe must be figured by the mafia. I like wood heat and cooking in my stove, like the smoked trout in the photo, but come March and April, I do get tired of chucking wood in and cleaning the ash out. Burning all day long everyday when in the shop, makes a lot of ash. I put it in plastic bags and the town has a depository close by, pick up once a month.

People still use charcoal burners under a low table with heavy covers thrown over it, then you sit there with your legs underneath, or there might be a cut out in the floor with the burner and covers on top, so a fair amount of ash gets generated in town. It's a real cool ancient method in a culture where the cost of energy can be prohibitive. We have a charcoal burner in our place, it is very comfortable and practical at night, and for folks that are home all day. My wife maintains it and knows just how to keep it going with fine warmth...when to add charcoal. Modern times...most folks have gone to an electric heater under the table and quilt to replace charcoal. The charcoal heat is more comfortable by far. It's some special kind if charcoal that you buy, very tightly pressed together round things like briquettes that they sell for barbecue. It isn't so bad having the rest of the house cold, if you have at least one location where you can get warm, you get used to it.....sort of. Rooms where people sleep aren't normally heated.
 

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NeTree said:
If their hot water is running at 180 degrees, something's wrong. :?
Click to expand...

That's what the Hardy is set to. The reservoir of water that heats the house is kept at 180*, and the water tank for the house's hot water sits either adjacent to or atop it, I can't remember which. My dad gets around it by having piped the hot water into an electric water heater that isn't even hooked up...just uses it as a holding tank so the water cools down a little before being used.

One thing I don't like about it is that it relies on so many relays, pumps, switches, etc. to be reliable all the time. A simple leak at a fitting can shut the whole shebang down until it's repaired. No heat or hot water.
 
Usually there's a circulator on a thermostat between the heating process water and the potable hot water heater.
 
I'll probably make an outdoor boiler for hot water and heat once I get a welder... We are solely wood heat in this house now. We will burn both pine and oak. But I also clean my chimney every year as well. We do it our selves. Triple wall pipe is required here. You will find most newer stove have like a built in catalytic plate and venting that automatically does the secondary gas burn. Ours does. Very efficient even with the damper mostly closed.
Chimney fires and bad JUJU. That shit gets so hot it can destroy mortar, melt tin.... Erik knows exactly what I am talkin about. Used to see a lot of them in MA from folks burning pine and not keeping the chimney clean. I always thought the colder air in the winter was a huge factor in creosote build up.
 
If you can keep the stack temperaure above 300 it really heats with the creosote .Problem is on a masonary flue or even a long double insulated metal pipe that's tough to do .With a fire place it's no problem but then you're just heating the out side air because they are only at best 10 percent efficient .

Like I said before mine got in worse shape than I had thought .The top 8 or so feet looks like roof tar .I don't like that one little bit . It's hard as a rock which is good in a way and it hasn't pyrolited which I suppose is good . I've got to do something though .
 
I checked the attic just by touch and it isn't running hot that I can tell .I've got maybe 4.5 feet to the attic ,4 feet of attic and about 4.5 above the roof from the attic .It's that cooling from the outside air that causes the build up .The closer it gets to the outlet of course the thicker it gets because the stack is cooler .

I'm just going to stuff a stainless liner in it and be done with it once and for all .
 
treesmith said:
That's what the Hardy is set to. The reservoir of water that heats the house is kept at 180*, and the water tank for the house's hot water sits either adjacent to or atop it, I can't remember which. My dad gets around it by having piped the hot water into an electric water heater that isn't even hooked up...just uses it as a holding tank so the water cools down a little before being used.

One thing I don't like about it is that it relies on so many relays, pumps, switches, etc. to be reliable all the time. A simple leak at a fitting can shut the whole shebang down until it's repaired. No heat or hot water.[/QUOTE

In Death Valley NP, the rangers will turn off the water heater in the summer, and use 'hot' for cold (read cool) water, and 'cold' for hot water, which comes in pipes through the hecka hot soil.
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I don't see any way of regulating the hot water temp without changing the temp of the heating water. The firebox heats them both simultaneously. And as hot water is used in the house, it just flows from the tank into the house. Seems I recall a warning sticker about 180* water somewhere on it.
 
Gotcha. Usually, the hot water heater has a coil inside that's fed with the boiler water through a separate circulating pump that's turned off or on depending on the setting of the hot water thermostat. The boiler water runs through the coil to heat the hot water up to the set temperature, then stops when the thermostat shuts off the circ pump. The hot water heater is just a heat exchanger. This is how I've seen most set up, anyways; not fired off the same fire box.
 
You may be right, Erik. I'll take a closer look sometime. I do know there's something said about 180*, but that may be specifically talking about the boiler water.
 
It would make sense that 180 would be the main water jacket temp .It's my understanding these things are atmospheric boilers with no pressure ,just hot water .You certainly would not want the water to boil .
 
I wish I had a wood stove in my barn to throw all those test session cookies in. BUT after I checked into insurance with wood burner it was a no go and if I didnt have wood burner listed on ins and fire came back due to use of wood burner they would not pay.

So I go with noisy ass torpedo for heat.
 
Cut4fun said:
I wish I had a wood stove in my barn to throw all those test session cookies in. BUT after I checked into insurance with wood burner it was a no go and if I didnt have wood burner listed on ins and fire came back due to use of wood burner they would not pay.

So I go with noisy ass torpedo for heat.
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You just have to build a smaller shop Kevin.
I'm still enjoying the heat down here in Mexico, but when I get back home in less then 2 weeks back to -20 below, I'll be finishing my chainsaw only shop that I started.
I was tired heating a 2 car garage to work on saws so I built a 8'X12' shed with 8' walls. The floor, walls and ceiling are fully insulated. I got a 42"X42" double pane slider window over the 8'workbench on the end wall. The shed/shop is sitting on skids so I can move it if needed.
Its wired for 220 so I can heat it with a small thermostat controlled construction heater. I can plug my welder into the same plug. No room for a wood burner I'm afraid.
It's gonna be chainsaw heaven in there when she's finished. But still have room to bring the stump grinder or Muck Truck power barrow inside to work on.
 
Burning wood is a subject I know a bit of.
I have one open fireplace, two stoves and wood burning furnace in the garage. Furnace have reversed combustion, primary and secondary burning. Flame go down under fire to a chamber where it gets really hot and burn almost to completion. Nails etc burn there too... I get out as much energy of the wood as I think is possible without more sophisticated systems.
Heat from furnace is stored in isolated water tanks. Hot water is from one of these tanks and in it is electric heater as back up if I am prevented to burn.
Burn 3 hrs in evening and have heat and hot water for a day or two depending of weather. Summertime I have 5-6 day's hot water.
I burn about 25-30 cubic meters of wood/year. Put wood in baskets that take a bit more than a cubic meter, no stacking, just tip it or drop it in. Store it with covered top outside to dry, then inside to keep dry. Take a box and put in shop, replace when empty. No lifting of wood prior loading boiler. Mostly hardwood, Elm, Beech, oak in 50-60cm length. Smaller than fist, no splitting.
System is prepared for solar panels, but they are not there yet and I can put a burner in boiler if I wish, for chipped wood, pellet, oil, gas etc..

If it smokes it isn't burning right.

Here is a movie (sorry about the Swedish voice): http://www.varmebaronen.se/html/vedolux_40_ub_utokad.html
vedolux40.png
 
Regulations here is about as Stig described.
You can have fireplace any were as long as you build according to the rules.

Some of the bigger city's requirer catholic converter for some types of stoves.

I have license to clean my chimney and it is inspected every 4 year.
Those who don't and use a system like mine need inspection 2-3 times a year.
If it is just occasional use it is once per year.

I made a big mistake when I built my system. It required 160mm chimney and I thought since you never know what happens 180 would be good so it can be relined. There was no available at the time so I got 200mm after talking to the people who know...
I now have too much speed thru system and need to strangle it to not get too high temp in fumes out of furnace.
Around 200c is about max what I would like. I thought I would put in turbulators in the tubes or a spring hatch in chimney, but never got around to actually doing it...

Chimney is a clay material that is vented so i can put wood right to it. System is called Isokern.
Found a pic of a newer system they sell today (I have a different hat).

isokern_dm.jpg
 
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