Wood stove heat

The Czechs are master craftsmen and are without peer ... My grandad was from Slovakia and had 8 siblings
 
The blower motor in my stove is old and hasn't had the recommended maintenance of oil every 6 months, or whatever it says. Anyway, it is a bit noisy because the shaft can rattle slightly (not screech) in the bushings, though I've found most of the noise comes from the whole blower assembly vibrating against the stove if it is very slightly out of position. I've already started oiling it regularly, and it likes lots of oil now, some every 2-3 days.

Heat seems to degrade the oil quickly, it seems to dry out and get sticky, which is especially noticeable when I relight the stove and start the blower, which doesn't want to turn until it warms up some.

What is a good high temp oil for bronze bushings that won't dry out or degrade quickly? I'm using 3 in 1 long lasting motor oil SAE 20 for 1/4hp+. I originally used some of this with graphite to help fill in the wear on the bearings, but haven't added graphite since. I've tried a few other oils I had laying around with little success like 2 stroke oil and Scorpion bearing oil, though I haven't used them long term enough to know that they for sure don't dry out as fast.
 
If the shaft rattles in its bushings, the play is too wide now. Each time the shaft made a "tic", it went airbone and lands again on the busching's surface. The thin film of oil takes it, aerosolizes in an tiny oil fog and slowly disapears. Local hight points of friction increases the temperature and mixes the oil's remains with the metal dust from the wear. That makes a paste which eventually accumulates and locks the shaft. I tried to oil repeatedly the bushings of my electric heater, that's doesn't work very long.
Wd40 doesn't lubricate but dismantles the layer of residues and gives back some free play (usually too much because the metal is worn out).
Oil after wd40 works better, but only temporarely. The bushings are hollowed out, so back to the first line above. Replacing them sounds a good idea (where can we found that though), but the shaft itself is often worn out too. Even if not as much than the bushings, it no longer has the right diameter and will come soon in trouble again.

The roller bearings should be better but modifying this litlle motor to make the change is a lot of work for what it worths.
 
My ex was renting a place that had a forced air furnace. The blower was out of balance and got a sheet metal shimmy going. I asked her if that noise didn't bother her. Not really. I got a piece of scrap and jammed it in to eliminate it. While I was in there I looked at her filter and burner. Full of dust. Told her she should get her landlord on that. Not sure she had much appreciation, maybe. We get along better than most exes.
 
Well, it's that time of year again, and i just ordered an insert for my existing fireplace. It's an ashley so it's nothing special, but should be able to heat my house well enough and installation will be easy. The stove i got I'll be putting in the garage, so that'll be soon too.
 
How do you find that flexible flue for soot/creosote accumulation and subsequent cleaning?
 
I have one, and it gets a stellar rating during inspection. "It's just ash at the top" they say during the yearly inspection/cleaning, but I try to do a hot burn with the door open while spraying Anti-Creo-Soot to burn off any soot and creosote before they come. It's about time to cancel the yearly inspection/cleaning now that I know I can keep it clean. I would not consider my stove to be clean burning and efficient. Though I try to get it to burn clean, I often sacrifice clean burning for a long burn time at night.

Other than making sure it flows well, I wouldn't be concerned about buildup in a stainless pipe since they are less prone to chimney fire damage.
 
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