Tree felling vids

He matched his cuts up nicely. Probably has it's place as a specialty cut, but I don't see how you could log a woods doing that. There's no control over the tree. Every tree will go where it wants to go, so there's a 1:36 chance of it being where the faller wants it to go assuming 10° is acceptable precision.
 
I think this has been discussed before.
Iirc it was a guy cutting high value walnut or similar, nice if it works, you’d need a tree with just the right lean.
I shan’t be bothering.
 
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Exactly

High value (maximize wood harvest with no fiber pull) and they go with the lean. Sometimes even climb and limb to create lean. They don’t lay them all out in lines clear cut like in the west. Selective.
 
@davidwyby There hasn't been a clearcut on the Mt. Hood NF in over 25 years. Most western federal timberlands, it's the same. It's ALL selective cutting.

And I will promise you, no one is doing it without face cuts. The trees HAVE to be placed in the proper lays, lean be damned.

Otherwise, on the short ground we have here, you get far too many broken trees to be acceptable. Plus, to keep collateral damage to the remaining stand in check, both in the felling and to be able to remove the logs.

I have a very hard time believing that most "eastern" fallers are not using face cuts. But I do not know, so cannot argue otherwise.
 
I can only comment on the clearing I see, which is mostly the same guy/company, but also some others of unknown origin. It's pretty much all standard face cuts. This is both for getting it all done and gone(timber value is a lesser concern), and cutting for timber value.
 
Just tells me he cant make a low Humboldt when I see shitty sawyer practices such as that.
Probably more than a few guys "back East" that have the scars to prove those practices are not all that, then assigned nick names like one leg Reggie.....
 
Burnham said:
@davidwyby There hasn't been a clearcut on the Mt. Hood NF in over 25 years. Most western federal timberlands, it's the same. It's ALL selective cutting.

And I will promise you, no one is doing it without face cuts. The trees HAVE to be placed in the proper lays, lean be damned.

Otherwise, on the short ground we have here, you get far too many broken trees to be acceptable. Plus, to keep collateral damage to the remaining stand in check, both in the felling and to be able to remove the logs.

I have a very hard time believing that most "eastern" fallers are not using face cuts. But I do not know, so cannot argue otherwise.
Click to expand...
The point I was making is that they can go with the lean. They don’t all have to lay the same. If you don’t need to guide or aim the tree you don’t need a (fiber pulling) face or hinge…
 
It seems doable if you're going with the lean. I'm surprised he doesn't put a little top-cut face/snipe on the lean-side to help things.
 
cory said:
It seems doable if you're going with the lean. I'm surprised he doesn't put a little top-cut face/snipe on the lean-side to help things.
Click to expand...
They usually do. Use the flare trim for a face. I’ve done it as well. Or they use all the flares as spurs for hinges/release. All to save $$$ wood.

One downside of no hinge is potential to get pinched. I think this is why they run big saws on short bars. Also back barring packs the kerf with chips while pile up and help prevent pinch. I just did it the other day, vid on my YT.
 
Different methods for different trees in different locations for different log buyers.

That being said, I know an eastern cutter who is hardcore n no fiber pull and always uses hinges. More fiddling than slick stump. Less skill needed too.
 
I see an application.

Not bread and butter, day in- day out.

Sometimes, I'll cut a flat-cut similarly with maple logs (split prone trees with lean enough). I'll already ring the log with a kerf (similarly to leaving a square of uncut wood in the middle of the log being bucked, finishing with the square).
 
As soon as the tree started moving, there was absolutely no directional control. Also the way the trunk crossed the stump was terrifying, completely unpredictable, and exactly why we shouldn't do this.

1 Gun Cut (aims tree)
2 Face Cut (makes notch)
3 Back Cut (makes tree fall down)
3a Bore Cut when applicable.

Keep It Simple, Sawyer.
 
According to these guys they get paid to take chances 😆

The trees are quite valuable (veneer). Finding them straight and unblemished is rare. They don’t grow straight for very far so trying to keep min log lengths means cutting very low and flush with no fiber pull. Mills are tough.
 
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OK as someone in a high risk profession, a certian amount of ego and arrogance is required for success.

No excuses. I can do better. Super high value logs are what? 10-12 bucks a tree as compared to 2? Just sayin.

Let's just say it's actually worth it. Then I climb the tree, take virtually all the limb weight out of it, and secure a pull line.

Even then, I'd Humboldt the stump to keep from splitting the log.

Alligator juniper is quite brittle, as an example.

But what do I know? I'm just a hillbilly from northern Arizona with too many chainsaws...
 
SeanKroll said:
Boring out the whole center would seem, from my recliner, to prevent fiber pull in valuable wood.
Click to expand...
That is how Walt does it. He has a specific process. Wide open face close to the edge of the tree (flare trim) and a little stump shot. Gutted hinge. This way the hinge crushes and breaks before the face closes and pulls it. Walt is doing the opposite of what I try to achieve - more hinge time/control.

i think the other feller only doesn't hinge to save time.
 
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