Tree felling vids

Looked like a 15-20 % of the diameter hinge thickness.

Gutting the face would have helped, standing it on two green, strong corners with plenty of room for wedges, even with a deeper facecut.

Backleaners can be stood up on three wedges with bored-in slots

Wedging plates are well-suited to backleaners without the spit- out risk.
 
What’s the raisining on the face? Just stability side to side?
I'm not familiar with this term, David.

Edit: Did you mean reasoning, as in what was my reasoning to say the face was too shallow?

If so, I meant that he'd have been well served by cutting the face closer to 40-50% of the diameter because that shifts the pivot point to the rear that one has to tip the back leaning weight past to get the tree to commit. If that pivot point is closer to the wedges, the lift they must generate doesn't have to be quite as high.

I also agree with Sean...gutting that hinge would have been smart. Plus a thinner hinge, as you said.
 
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I'm not familiar with this term, David.

Edit: Did you mean reasoning, as in what was my reasoning to say the face was too shallow?

If so, I meant that he'd have been well served by cutting the face closer to 40-50% of the diameter because that shifts the pivot point to the rear that one has to tip the back leaning weight past to get the tree to commit. If that pivot point is closer to the wedges, the lift they must generate doesn't have to be quite as high.

I also agree with Sean...gutting that hinge would have been smart. Plus a thinner hinge, as you said.
Ah, yes, but then the leverage is reduced as well. That's a hard geometrical conundrum.

If It was me, I'd go thinner hinge, not too, gut it. Skip the rope unless there are targets. Probably std face depth. Lots of wedges to spread the load.

Here's the part I'm not sure about : what if we also gap face and high back cut it.

Std cut as he did, he is trying to compress the front half of the hinge, and rip the rear half apart. My way, there is an opening for the hinge to fold out into away from the stump, OR, instead of trying to compress the front half of the hinge, there will be air instead of resistance. Something to experiment with in November when I have a bunch of trees in front of me.

Option 1 - the peel

Skip to 7:21



This might take more wedging effort...

Option 2 - no front half in compression - skip to :30






Thanks!
 
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On paper you are of course correct about the loss of leverage...but in my experience, it is almost always worth cutting some lean into a back leaner.
 
It's a trade-off hard to solve some times. With a serious back leaner, I make usually a small open face ( if I don't need a strong side to side control). I have been in trouble previously with a too deep face because I couldn't lift the tree at all, too much pressure on the wedges. I had to get a line and set a puller to help the wedges, all the time sweating bullets by fear of the loss of the tree.
But when I pull a backleaner with a rope, I gladly cut a deep notch and that helps really in this scenario.
 
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Here's a question and then my reply detailing methods for wedging back leaning trees. Might be interesting if you haven't seen it before, certainly it is an older thread.

 
Here's a question and then my reply detailing methods for wedging back leaning trees. Might be interesting if you haven't seen it before, certainly it is an older thread.

I read than one when I first joined, time for a refresh! Ah to be young again and have a strong memory and empty memory banks....
 
Well, I have observed that for some peeps notice from others, even really negative notice, is worth it to feel justified in breathing.

I dunno; I see it, but I don't understand it.
 
So, how bad was that mistake? Was it an "Only an idiot would do that" kind of thing, or was a typical screwup that sometimes happens?
 
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