Tree felling vids

[cory]

Good one, weird soundtrack.

 

[Burnham]

Nice video of oldtimer skills. Hein-Werner for the win! Or maybe it's a Duff-Norton .

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Great find Pete.

 

[gf beranek]

A goody for sure. Thanks for posting, Pete!

 

[davidwyby]

One for @Burnham 😁

 

[davidwyby]

I think this was a good candidate for plunge and trigger

 

[gf beranek]

That deep, open face was a good choice for that tree.

 

[davidwyby]

That deep, open face was a good choice for that tree.

I thought the hinge being thick was a ‘chair risk.

 

[SeanKroll]

How often are you seeing barber chairs?

 

[SeanKroll]

Better to protect against it and not needed to, compared to having needed to, and not done so.

 

[davidwyby]

How often are you seeing barber chairs?

Me never cuz @Burnham learned me not to leave thick hinges… 😁

 

[davidwyby]

Better to protect against it and not needed to, compared to having needed to, and not done so.

Yeah, anything with lean I plunge and trigger although I don’t cut much that is chair prone species wise. Watching a few vids of chairs will scare a guy straight.

 

[gf beranek]

Speaking of head leaners... and heavy limbs.

A deep face-cut puts the hinge aft on the stump, and that significantly reduces the chance of barber-chair when executing the back cut. It breaks a thick hinge because the tension in the remaining wood is increased so much.

Similar to undercutting a heavy limb. the deeper the undercut is the less chance there is of a limb splitting out when executing the top cut.

In either scenario a shallow undercut is more conducive to splitting and barberchairing the stem.

If you use shallow undercuts in heavy leaners you better bore the backcut,

For demonstration purposes I worked the undercut in some leaners so deep the tree collapses towards the lay without even putting in a backcut.

 

[davidwyby]

Speaking of head leaners... and heavy limbs.

A deep face-cut puts the hinge aft on the stump, and that significantly reduces the chance of barber-chair when executing the back cut. It breaks a thick hinge because the tension in the remaining wood is increased so much.

Similar to undercutting a heavy limb. the deeper the undercut is the less chance there is of a limb splitting out when executing the top cut.

In either scenario a shallow undercut is more conducive to splitting and barberchairing the stem.

If you use shallow undercuts in heavy leaners you better bore the backcut,

For demonstration purposes I worked the undercut in some leaners so deep the tree collapses towards the lay without even putting in a backcut.

What’s the technique for avoiding pinch?

 

[Burnham]

Ream; be watchful to notice the bar beginning to feel bound and be quick as lightning to pull out when it does. Then ream some more .

 

[SeanKroll]

Speaking of head leaners... and heavy limbs.

A deep face-cut puts the hinge aft on the stump, and that significantly reduces the chance of barber-chair when executing the back cut. It breaks a thick hinge because the tension in the remaining wood is increased so much.

Similar to undercutting a heavy limb. the deeper the undercut is the less chance there is of a limb splitting out when executing the top cut.

In either scenario a shallow undercut is more conducive to splitting and barberchairing the stem.

If you use shallow undercuts in heavy leaners you better bore the backcut,

For demonstration purposes I worked the undercut in some leaners so deep the tree collapses towards the lay without even putting in a backcut.

Did you keep the bar from being bound so deep into the facecut by reaming?

 

[gf beranek]

Yes, of course, Sean, you always risk getting the bar and chain stuck when sawing an undercut that deep into a head-leaner or heavy limb. But like B said. "When it starts getting tight.... power-up and ream!

Then open up the undercut nice and wide, then saw the face in deeper, open it up some more, keeping the power to the chain and reamin!

Keep at it. You can work a face-cut so deep into a head leaner it'll collapse over without even a backcut.

But under normal circumstances if you can work a face-cut over halfway into a head leaner... after that it only takes a scratch on the back to launch it. Using this technique I never had a head leaner barber-chair.

Though I will admit, the method is unconventional and quite limited in its everyday practicality, but dealing with head leaners isn't an everyday thing for a urban treeman anyway.

Caveats? You bet, there's a million. first and foremost you need a sharp chain, strong saw and you need to be quick on the draw. Plus, a sound tree is definitely in your favor. If you lack or have neither you'll probably get stuck.

Super great for alders. Barber-chairing bastards anyway. I'm sure you about alders.

 

[SeanKroll]

I'll give it a go!

 

[davidwyby]

Likewise.

Keep yer scrench handy 😆

 

[davidwyby]

@gf beranek what might make you choose deep face over coos bay? Some Directional control with deep face? Speed of the coos?

 

[gf beranek]

With the deep undercut you still have some degree of directional control. Depending on the tree of course

The Coos' Bay is a lot faster with less chance of getting stuck, but no directional control. So...

 

[flushcut]

Send it!

 

[davidwyby]

 

[gf beranek]

Death pop. Time to bug out.

Nice vid.

 

[davidwyby]

My splitting was interrupted by a removal request. Yawner…