Tree felling vids

[gf beranek]

Run for your life! Great vid, Matt!

In open ground like that you can see everything.

Coastal redwood habitat, on the other hand, is full of brush. The best lay for a redwood, in second-growth select cuts, can not always be viewed from the stump. You got to walk the lay out several directions sometimes.

Most timber fallers I met in the Sierra told me, "You can have it." Referring to the brush on the coast.

Yeah the brush sucks, but on its good side coastal redwood habitat is generally cool and mild to spend a day working in falling trees, and running for your life. It's no different in that respect, but you got to cut a lot more brush to keep it all on the safe side.

Your'e in my neck of the woods. It'll be great to meet up with you.

 

[MatthewMMeckley]

Very solid advice and the brush part is all I’ve heard. I’ve known a few guys to throw in the towel because the brush is so bad. Love the advice and yes, once Katelyn and I are settled in I will be giving you a ring!

 

[MatthewMMeckley]

A lot of driving scenarios this year.

 

[flushcut]

Lol at your music choice.

 

[MatthewMMeckley]

Lol at your music choice.

I’m a big fan of that movie 😂

 

[davidwyby]

Like the music, haven’t really seen the movie

Reckon I should rectify that

 

[davidwyby]

@stig @Bermy I almost did it with a 2175 and 30”, but I didn’t…sorry. 😁 kinda wish I had
brought the 60” and just cut it.

Would you give some tips for lining up plunged back cuts? Waste of time cutting wood twice. I do have a magnetic bubbled level stuck to my bar back between the dogs ala Jed, kinda helps. I was thinking about it this morning and maybe if I had gutted the hinge and swept the middle of the tree until the bar poked out on either side, that would have gotten the cuts lined up better.

I wish I had another one to do and compare the coos bay.

 

[davidwyby]

🤔 coos bay vs. plunge and trigger, thoughts?

 

[stig]

The only tip I have for matching cuts is practise, practise, practise!

 

[davidwyby]

The only tip I have for matching cuts is practise, practise, practise!

I was afeered you’d say that! 😆

Easier on smaller stuff

 

[davidwyby]

@Bermy at the end of the time lapse of breaking down the top, I plunged (aggressive 23rsp is like having a pissed off bobcat by the tail for plunging 😆) swept the bottom from the middle, and then top cut it. Nice and clean and worked well.

Things don’t pinch as much when they are elevated and tips not touching the ground. I cut the lower limbs off, flipped the butts outward, repeated with the upper limbs, then dropped the firewood logs, when I go back I will just need to cut firewood…with a few little limbs under them to keep out of the dirt. 😁

 

[Burnham]

🤔 coos bay vs. plunge and trigger, thoughts?

Coos Bay is suitable for the really heavy leaners. Plunge and trigger is better for less extreme circumstances. Plus, Coos Bay can only go directly to the head lean, while the plunge and trigger does allow some directional choices.

 

[stig]

Couldn't have said that better myself.

 

[SeanKroll]

1. Face-cut
2. shave off bark on rear to know true location of wood.
3.If you plunge in around 2-3 o'clock, moving your bar down toward 6 o'clock, you can often get your nose to protrude from the 7 o'clock location, knowing accurately how much back-strap of wood you have.
4. stick your bar into the tree from the other side, at 7 o-clock.
5. cut toward your hinge.
6. I use a lower than plunge-cut level release-cut. Some people like the dog-tooth sloping release cut, seemingly Brits.
7. get away from the stump.

 

[davidwyby]

View attachment 131752


1. Face-cut
2. shave off bark on rear to know true location of wood.
3.If you plunge in around 2-3 o'clock, moving your bar down toward 6 o'clock, you can often get your nose to protrude from the 7 o'clock location, knowing accurately how much back-strap of wood you have.
4. stick your bar into the tree from the other side, at 7 o-clock.
5. cut toward your hinge.
6. I use a lower than plunge-cut level release-cut. Some people like the dog-tooth sloping release cut, seemingly Brits.
7. get away from the stump.

With this oval stump, I could have plunged from 4/5 to 7/8, but I was concerned about how much trigger wood I needed to keep. Turns out, not much. Also, plunging back there, I might not have ended up at the right height at the hinge. I almost gutted it but didn’t because it was already rotten…I wish I had if only for the reference.

 

[SeanKroll]

If your chain is cutting straight, and initial borecut is right, it seems to work that the return cut is correctly positioned.

 

[MatthewMMeckley]

When I got asked to come back out as a climber for the falling crew, a man named David Perkins really drilled the fundamentals of falling trees and making good stumps. He had everyone of use use levels with the magnets. We would play a game and see who could have the most level back cuts and face cuts.
View attachment 9906f0576cb94cccbe486f5adf98841e.mp4

 

[davidwyby]

When I got asked to come back out as a climber for the falling crew, a man named David Perkins really drilled the fundamentals of falling trees and making good stumps. He had everyone of use use levels with the magnets. We would play a game and see who could have the most level back cuts and face cuts.
View attachment 131757

Eye see…not just just stump snobbery…if they are all level, on a big tree, it’s easier to line them all up.

 

[davidwyby]

If your chain is cutting straight, and initial borecut is right, it seems to work that the return cut is correctly positioned.

I was saying, since the bar wouldn’t reach through behind the hinge, I’d plunge it across the back where the tree was narrower to get both sides on the same plane or connected, and then work that forward to the back of the hinge. Being a couple feet away from the hinge, it’d be tricky to have that cut hit the hinge level/even.

 

[Burnham]

Not really that tricky, in practice.

 

[davidwyby]

Practice it is…

 

[Burnham]

And remember, it's not all that critical to get the bores from opposite sides to line up exactly. A little bit of overlap between the two will usually break out fine when the tree commits as the rear strap is severed. And if it doesn't (which would likely mean you didn't really have that much head lean in the first place), you can then send it with a couple of wedges.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Good practice to.just set a couple wedges as you go just behind the hinge and follow your saw with some as you go if its a big stem.

 

[davidwyby]

Good practice to.just set a couple wedges as you go just behind the hinge and follow your saw with some as you go if its a big stem.

I need more trees 😁

I had that blue madsens wedge in there just in case it settled to that side, I’d hopefully be able to get the saw out…wedges always, but I don’t bother other than that since there was no question about which way the tree was going.

 

[davidwyby]

I was gonna start another thread but might as well continue here….limb weight vs. lean...?
I have plunge cut heavy leaners and had them pop quite a bit of trigger wood. I fully expected the same from this tree with all it’s limb weight, but there was only a hair of trigger wood left when it popped. Fast saw might have some thing to do with it, but I expected inches of popped trigger.