Obviously I'm rocking gloves working as a fitter, and I've kinda found the ones i prefer so that's what i run for tree work too. Leather drivers are awesome work gloves, once broken in you can feel as well as if you were bare handed. Some guys even smear them with oil as needed to make them softer or to help preserve them. This allows you to work with hot stuff and still feel the tools so you can work. They work great for rigging, allowing you to safely work with wire and chain, and work wonderfully for ground stuff on trees. In the air running a saw i like the grippy palm gloves, but everything else leather.
I've also found that Tillman is worth the price. I will get months out of a pair of their drivers, I'll get 6 months out of a pair of welding gloves at it pretty much full time. I try to take care of them and they last and last, what more can you ask for? This time a year I'll run 2 pairs of welding gloves at once, so you can switch out to dry gloves before you start getting shocked. Just tossed pair number 2 in the truck, got lit up earlier this week thru my lower back from the damn wire lanyard for extraction from yet another vault. They have different thickness gloves for different types of work, the tig gloves are super thin for the most minimal coverage possible for feel and dexterity while their mig gloves are a good general thickness and make absolutely wonderful work gloves. Stick gloves come in different types too.
The 1350s are their mig gloves that i love, when i was welding production i actually requested them from safety after i had a pair of the cotton Munk style gloves everyone used simply burst into flames from the heat. They looked into it and saw they were happy with the prices so they got a few pairs. It wasn't a month later and everyone in the whole plant had them for all tasks from pushing a broom to welding
Safety even went so far as pushing them for fork trucks because of the propane bottles and the freezing skin risk. The cuffs can be annoying if you aren't used to cuffs so some people cut or roll them down, and scraps of old gloves are still handy for random stuff. They make excellent softeners when rigging, biting better on steel than even wood. This keeps steel chokers and chain in place by increasing the friction so they don't slide, a huge advantage when rigging steel with steel rigging.
Stick welding I'm completely sold on their 850s, the smooth elk hide stays flexible even from heat, and the berries just bounce off. Long cuffs keep the sparks out and with my padded arm pad from outlaw leather I'm decked in leather all the way to my left elbow. Only comfortable way you can do position work imo, the ability to anchor your off arm comfortably on hot surfaces is huge, not to mention the greatly reduced risk of shocking yourself from a drenched jacket grounding your arm. The gloves are thick enough it takes awhile to sweat thru them, and are so effective at resisting heat I'll run the first part of the rod with my left hand fingertips holding the rod like I'm shooting pool. This gives me tons of control and feeling when lighting up and doing the tie in, and then dropping my hand back to support once it's shorter and easier to control.
In tough overhead and jammed in places this makes it much easier to control the rod even if forced to hold it wierd or do it with your off hand, and helps to keep your fingers pointed towards the fire to protect your arms from berries bouncing in a cuff. The fitter cap and pancake hood completes the gear, being light and small but also perfect for deflecting fire with its simple shield shape, the brim of the fitter hat covering the ear as a last defense to the dreaded ear berry. The pancake being basically goggles keeps everything away from your eyes, and is minimally there to help you breathe fresh air away from the work. It all adds up to an exoskeleton of leather allowing you to safely crawl under and anchor your arm, lay on your back on a mud board and use your gear to keep the fire off you while you simply work.