O.C.G.D. Thread, part two

Paul B said:
I suppose the costs of tools are relative to the business at hand. If you need Silky blades, let me know if I can quote a price for you. :)
Click to expand...

Will canadian mail still ship stuff to europe by sea?

When class 4 mail ( seaward) disappeared in the US, I mostly stopped bying smaller items from there. The cost of airfreight got too high.

an example: about 5 years ago we ran out of Hardhead wedges in the middle of logging season. We had a shipment on the way from bailey's, but decided to order a siingle box, just to keep us going untill the pallet arrived.

The wedges cost $130, shipping was $150:cry:
 
You're gonna like that Silky handsaw I spy in there Stig, I won one at TCIA and its a great little saw. Been using it in place of my Zubat since I won it.
 
Nowhere near Stig's haul but a couple things showed up today. Some gel fuel, Trioxane tablets and my new little Trangia camp stove :D
 

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Paul you're going to love that Trangia! Had one for almost 10 yrs, simple and very effective!
I guess you have the holder and all as well as the burner you showed...I love how the whole caboodle fits together in one neat package, pot, pan, kettle, handle, windguard...

Stig, that's an great price on your shipping, how long did it take to get to you?
 
Next time you need a quote on 23 dozen hardhead wedges..... 3,312 minutes plus materials and shipping.

Stig, regarding Bailey's shipping on smaller items. I had asome good communications with Sam Bailey recently, trying to get them to use DHL rather than the post office. The post office express rates are nuts, and that is currently the only way they will ship. Sam said he was going to definitely look into it. Hopefully the costs will decrease for the air service.
 
Sam is the man, for us overseas guys and girls.

Fiona, it took about 2½ months.
That gets us every time. We ALWAYS order too late and come close to running out.

As for Chain. I don't like Stihl Chain , so I run Oregon 75 Xpl.......whatever, on all my saws ( except the little tiny ones!)

And Adrian ,that saw was for my apprentice, alas!

I have had a couple of the old ones, great saws, but they ate their way through the scabbard.
When I saw the new scabbard, I almost kept it for myself:lol:
 
stig said:
There is a set of Klein spurs and a wire core lanyard for him as well, that should see him fully equipped to start working in the tree tops.
Once the logging season is over, that is.I require them to have a full season of logging under their belts, before they get to use a chainsaw aloft.
Seen too many examples of bad saw handling in trees.
Click to expand...

:thumbup:

Think they 'll be very thankful for the rest of their life.
It's this kind of things that makes you a professional or not.
 
We got snowed out today so how did I fill my time? Yep, bought some gear. I bought a 5/8"x150' All Gear Husky line, some 3/4" All Gear Husky line to make a new eye slings, a block, some ear muffs for my Pacific, an eye lag spinner, some rope and a snap for a new lanyard, a Marvin bull pruner and some red head wedges. It should be hear early next week. I am kind of excited since I didn't really get anything from Santa this year.
 
Thanks, I've been looking into different wedges recently, the variation in resiliency, and what works best with steel inserts that you can do yourself. Not that it makes a heck of a lot of difference, but just interested. I do like the K an H brand. Wondering why some of the brands make their longer wedges so thin, the 'Woodsman Pro' for example. Got the length, so why not go with a thicker taper? The 7 1/2" has the same max thickness as the 10", just a longer taper.
 
I believe that the steeper the wedge, the more likely they will be to split out.

A longer wedge will fit the changing shape of the backcut better in a larger tree.

You will get an easier lift with a lower angled wedge.
 
P1080645.jpg This is a "Tongue" that we use on big trees, which I mentioned in the Bottle Jack discussion, back a bit ago. Better than double stacking, and if its not enough, you can stack two of them in a big tree.

The small wedge is a 5 1/2" with a little re-sharpening done on it, so its a hair shorter.
 
The lift power of a wedge (output) is determined by length divided by height. A wedge that is 10" long and 1" high [= 10], will lift a lot more weight than a wedge that is 5" long and 1" high [= 5]; with the same power (work or input). Thus longer wedges with a more gentle taper will provide more lifting power than shorter wedges with steeper taper.

However with small trees where the weight is not significant, ie well within the lifting power of the wedge, a shorter wedge with steeper taper can lift it faster with fewer hits and less force.

Not a scientist, but this is my understanding.
 
I think that Bonner's got the correct jist of the physics.

I don't know about needing less force to lift the same mass, though. Faster, maybe. It could be that you will drive a less tapered wedge deeper with the same input force than a steeper tapered wedge. In the end, you are changing the kinetic energy of the swung hammer into increased potential energy of the tree getting lifted (while its getting tilted) and potential energy of the bending hinge fibers that want to rebound to 'straight', and some energy is lost to heat.

From my armchair, I think that having good contact between the wedge and backcut (upper and lower surfaces) will help it drive well and not spit out. This contact is achieved I believe with matching wedge size/ taper with the tree size and geometry of the backcut (geometry will change depending on how deeply the facecut is made). I think I already mentioned this, though, so pardon any redundancy.
 
Bonner got it right, longer wedge requires less force. However it will require less force for a longer duration. Same amount of energy in total but less force......
 
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