O.C.G.D. Thread, part two
- Thread starter Paul B
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flushcut
TreeHouser
RnR?
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
Nice.
I liked my Shembiner till it lost itself off my saddle. Shem sold it to me back when.
I prefer the Transporter. Bomb proof. Locks too. Less grabby on the little frass
Rock Exotica
I liked my Shembiner till it lost itself off my saddle. Shem sold it to me back when.
I prefer the Transporter. Bomb proof. Locks too. Less grabby on the little frass
Rock Exotica
I've come || close to getting a Transporter several times. The cost keeps putting my off. Probably some day. I doubt I'd pay full price for a Shembiner, but for $13, it's cheap enough to try. Just dropping a saw on a hook has a lot of appeal, but what you mentioned getting hooked on wood has always concerned me about an open hook.
This is what I've been using. Pretty cheap, and it works well, but a locking gate like the Transporter has would be nice.
This is what I've been using. Pretty cheap, and it works well, but a locking gate like the Transporter has would be nice.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
Yeah, that was the downside of the hook..
Even a wire gate can be bothersome.
Funny story. I was out of the tree shedding gear and leaned up against a chain link fence . Pretty much had handed the saw off for a refuel and was removing my foot loop/ankle strap and foot ascender and left the Transporter unlocked
Oh yeah. Like slap stick. I did not get far....
Even a wire gate can be bothersome.
Funny story. I was out of the tree shedding gear and leaned up against a chain link fence . Pretty much had handed the saw off for a refuel and was removing my foot loop/ankle strap and foot ascender and left the Transporter unlocked
Oh yeah. Like slap stick. I did not get far....
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TreeHouser
I’d say about 15-20 minutes a side in the shop, it’s not that difficult. Probably the hardest part is getting the new track over the front idler but that’s like five minutes with two pry bars.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
I don't use pry bars.
My Boxer suggests recommends removing about 6 bolts on the drive gear after slacking the tracks.
20 minutes each, in the shop sounds about right.
My Boxer suggests recommends removing about 6 bolts on the drive gear after slacking the tracks.
20 minutes each, in the shop sounds about right.
flushcut
TreeHouser
On Vermeer’s you back the front idler all the way in, get the tracks over the rear drive sprocket first, then over the front idler. You just fight the new tracks “want” to be round nothing major, pops on fairly easily. Older tracks go on much easier than new as they are broken in and worked.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Is it also a spring-loaded idler? Maybe all mini loaders are spring- loaded.
Sagging track weight is an impediment to installation.
I used to try to avoid taking the sprocket off of mine.
The tightening mechanism sucks to adjust...a provided 1 5/8" open-end wrench that needs to be flipped from a straight slot to an angled slot every 1/8 turn is used.
I'm needing to buy a 1 5/8" speed wrench.
Sagging track weight is an impediment to installation.
I used to try to avoid taking the sprocket off of mine.
The tightening mechanism sucks to adjust...a provided 1 5/8" open-end wrench that needs to be flipped from a straight slot to an angled slot every 1/8 turn is used.
I'm needing to buy a 1 5/8" speed wrench.
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1 5/8" socket, 1/2" wobble, about 3-6" of extension and a battery impact, ask me how I know this works lol
ratchet also works till theres dirt in the threads, last time I lost a track was right over a yellow jacket next and all I had was the wrench, other time I bought a ratchet and socket to keep in the truck and some PB blaster to clean/oil the threads some
at this point I go till it wont tighten more, havent stretched or lost a track since!
for those that havent gotten the joyful experience of using a shitty boxer track tensioner, Sean is 100% correct in the 1/8 turn and flipping the wrench, also you must do around 50-75 turns to reach a zero tension state to put the track back on, worse is tightening, I have to stand on the wrench and jump to make the 1/8 turn, repeat for 20 minutes
flushcut
TreeHouser
Yep spring loaded. I bought a long handle snap on ratchet just for the tracks it has a lot of teeth so it grabs well in a short/ narrow swing. Then I found my air impact and Milwaukee 1/2” compact impact fit in the undercarriage.
Knotorious
That Guy With The Face
I, too, wish I had a pair of Transporters on my harness. They are, in my humble opinion, the epitome of gear hangers. I currently have a set of Petzl Caritools on my harness. They're very inexpensive and actually hold a ton of shit. I wouldn't recommend them for a saw, though. But for storing literally anything else, they're exceptional. And if one breaks, just drop another $20 (or less) for one on Amazon or wherever else and you're golden.
Maybe Santa will get me a pair of Transporters for Christmas...heh heh (I wish)
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
Ive had 4 other saw holders in the same time frame as I have this one Transporter.
So yeah, it paid for itself and will probably out last me.
Why 2?
So yeah, it paid for itself and will probably out last me.
Why 2?
I'll answer why I got 4 shembiners(2 for my main saddle, two for work). I'm thinking a hook on my left side will be useful for keeping my rope/lanyard out from under my feet. Drop it in the hook, and send it behind me. The other is for my saw.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
Too much shat on a harness will, inevitably, take efficiency away from you. Just my .02
You may be right. It's a $13 gamble. I figure it's cheap enough to try. I also have an idea for gate on these if the open hook is a hassle. A gravity wire bale that fits in the top hole, and just lays over the hook. It could still get flipped out of the way, and caught on branches, but it may not in practice. A plastic keeper could retain it in the open position to use as an open hook.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
I think breakaway hooks are a reasonable way to go.
Goes along with breakaway rope- hanging points.
Goes along with breakaway rope- hanging points.
ive got an edelrid SM hook, large carritool, transporter and the camp kilo
transporter is great for a saw, kilo holds more stuff, carritool is the way to go if you want to carry lots of gear, I kinda don't like the edelrid one, feels flimsy, doesn't stay in place and snags on anything with a loose braid like tenex
that being said, I have witnessed a transporter get broken, sending a massive limb into the woods and it laid into a tree, flipped backwards on the rigging line and smacked my climber, sending my 200t out from about ~70ft onto gravel and snapped off the brake handle, shattered the transporter, and tore the loop off the saddle that the saw lanyard was hooked to, Notch Sentinel rear loop (the long low one)
I use the green ring on the back of my treemotion, last time I dropped a saw the ring withstood it perfectly fine and the lanyard broke as intended (with minimal shock to me, I didnt feel much)
I figured maybe someone scrolling through might be interested to hear a comparison of the most common hooks
transporter is a 9/10, kilo is also a 9/10 due to being a torx bit to install, need a special wrench, carritool is a 6/10 due to the hook on the nose that catches the wire gate
transporter is for a saw only IMO, carritool will carry like 12 saws, 8 ground guys, and the crane up the tree, the kilo is super lightweight and tough, doesn't snag ropes, but is a PITA to install, and no locking gate
transporter is great for a saw, kilo holds more stuff, carritool is the way to go if you want to carry lots of gear, I kinda don't like the edelrid one, feels flimsy, doesn't stay in place and snags on anything with a loose braid like tenex
that being said, I have witnessed a transporter get broken, sending a massive limb into the woods and it laid into a tree, flipped backwards on the rigging line and smacked my climber, sending my 200t out from about ~70ft onto gravel and snapped off the brake handle, shattered the transporter, and tore the loop off the saddle that the saw lanyard was hooked to, Notch Sentinel rear loop (the long low one)
I use the green ring on the back of my treemotion, last time I dropped a saw the ring withstood it perfectly fine and the lanyard broke as intended (with minimal shock to me, I didnt feel much)
I figured maybe someone scrolling through might be interested to hear a comparison of the most common hooks
transporter is a 9/10, kilo is also a 9/10 due to being a torx bit to install, need a special wrench, carritool is a 6/10 due to the hook on the nose that catches the wire gate
transporter is for a saw only IMO, carritool will carry like 12 saws, 8 ground guys, and the crane up the tree, the kilo is super lightweight and tough, doesn't snag ropes, but is a PITA to install, and no locking gate
SeanKroll
Treehouser
This has come to mind since a heavily loaded rigging line caught my aluminum biner saw-hook. The rope ran through it, with minimum pull on me.
Knotorious
That Guy With The Face
Because that's how I roll. I'm a huge fan of symmetry and I find that balancing out all the crap I carry on my harness helps me flow through the canopy and prevents my gear holders from becoming congested. In my opinion, the weight of an aluminum gear hook is effectively negligible for a man of the age of 35. In fact, I'd argue that it's negligible for pretty much anyone. You aren't going to lose efficiency because you choose to stow the same amount of equipment on two gear hooks versus one. However, your general statement about avoiding carrying too much shit on your saddle is 100% pure wisdom and impossible to contest.
Here's a look at my Treemotion and my gear holder setup. The arrow on the left is the large Caritool. As @WoodCutr accurately pointed out, you can hang a boat load of gear on these economical gear hooks. They also have a racking bar at the top, which allows you to select something that's all the way in the back without opening the gate on the hook. Finally, they are made out of some kind of synthetic polymer plastic type material and weigh next to nothing. Finally (again), they lock onto my harness super firmly and there is no play in them whatsoever. I have a second Caritool situated on the opposite side of my harness, in the same exact location.
Next, you'll notice that I have some ultra inexpensive, but highly efficient, MacGyver-style gear hook, also known as an-HMS-carabiner-that-I-shoved-through-the-connection-material-on-my-Treemotion. Very simple, with a screw gate and I use these all the time for stowing carabiners, rings, my Quickie, etc. I have one of these, once again, also on the opposite side of my harness and in the exact same position. Only downside to these is that they are semi-liable to move from side to side since there's really nothing keeping them from doing so. But they work for me.
Finally (not shown), when I do get the opportunity to climb with a saw, I have a Petzl Ring Open on the rated strap in the center, rear of my harness that I'll connect my lanyard to. After pulling a saw off and on between multiple cuts, however, it can sometimes become less-than-ergonomic to have to clip it directly behind me. But I don't trust the plastic Caritool and I definitely not going to use the HMS biner ghetto hooks either. If I were to someday own a Transporter, I'd immediately switch to stowing the saw closer to my right side.
I put my lanyard on the ring (treemo evo, same setup except my ring is permanent (I think its the same anyhow), and clip the saw onto the transporter on my right hip, I used to use my PLA 3D Printer hooks even, saw lanyard saved my 194 a bunch of times when those things broke lol
the saw will be fine to hang on a carritool or the jankified screwgate deal so long as the other end of the lanyard is on a solid rated point (which isnt the included elastic gear loop stuff, all I use that for it to mount my silky saw buckle to)
SeanKroll
Treehouser
My paddle biner ghetto hook has been doing the deal for over a decade, since before hooks became designer.
I don't think I'm missing out that much.
Marketing departments would have me believe otherwise.
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