Matt Cornell Rope Saddle thread

You need to let the newness wear off the bridge rope. When mine was new it bugged me for the same reasons you describe. After some use and grit and grim the knots stay put.
I also changed how the side rings were set by flipping them so they lay down and forward instead of up and out and think they are much better.
 
Take the bridge off and rough it up by running it back and forth over a log. We chose that cordage for its overall strength and durability it just takes some wear-in time..
 
Thanks for the advice! I climbed again last night (ended up coming down with the last limb in the dark :(), and the bridge seems to be getting better each time, so I'll stick with the original. Still thinking about swapping out the d's for larger steel rigging rings -
 
And that's the beauty of this Saddle. I say if you want bigger steel rings, go for it! Want a longer bridge with scaffold knots? Go for it.
 
Still love the MCRS. I wish your friend had edited out that cut near the end of the video were he was one handing and reached over the top of the running bar with his left to guide the branch. Just a statistic waiting to happen.
 
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  • #32
Yep:...at 7:10...lots of one handing in the video. He looks very comfortable and smooth in what he does but 1 handing is the exception for me, not the norm.

Good points on the saddle...it is a very good system...helps make work positioning simpler.
 
Just to be clear, it was not that he was one-handing that bothered me but how he was doing it.
 
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  • #34
Yep, I understood that. I threw the one hand stuff out there because it has been drilled in to me to keep it to a minimum. I can see where it is quicker than changing work positioning to be able to use two hands. I don't do production tree work so I try to take time to get into the best work position to minimize risk.

More power to those who have the experience and skills to understand how to do it all safely.
 
My days of one-handing a 026/260 are about over.
Used to come in handy sometimes for limbs that were just a little bit out of reach!
 
I just clip to an existing d ring, or my gear loop rope that runs between the gray webbing up-rights/ sorta 'belt loops'.

I wonder if that will make a little pressure point. Maybe not noticeable, but could aggravate something.

An expensive clip-in point.
 
yeah, I was going to use it on my lanyard, I bought brass saw snaps and everything as a clip in, but there was nowhere to attach them, and I didn't like the lanyard setup. Haven't noticed any pressure points, but now I might try and incorporate a saw snap. . .
 
I've clipped a Black Diamond Neutrino carabiner through the bottom loop on the front, right 'belt-loop', along with the cord for the gear look . It holds in place tightly, but wish it was oriented 90 degrees. I can flip and unclip single-handedly, by slightly tossing the saw up, and grabbing the lanyard ring to clip, and in reverse, to unclip.

I like a taped-open gate on a hook or carabiner for hanging my saw, which is probably much better turned 90 degrees. I can lower the ring onto the open hook, and retrieve it by the top-handle. My guess is with a stiff saw-hanging ring seen on some new saws, the saw can be hung and retrieved from the hook easier, without the intermediary lanyard-grab step.
 
Seems like some people tape a biner in place, when clipped on the lanyard ring of a 200t.

I haven't tried that yet.

Tips/ pics?
 
I'll get some pics when I open the truck next, I use the paddle biners behind the rope, and under the second channel just behind the rings. I double wrapped with zip ties on the top and bottom so that the biner is held diagonally between the top and bottomweebing loops. They're pretty stiff, no problems and I've had the saddle in use for close to since it came out (took an extra week or two after release to arrive, but I had preordered it).
 
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