bonner1040
Nick from Ohio
So I am planning a big rope swing for this year. The design involves pulling the user back and up to a high anchor where then they have to release themselves...I have been kicking around ideas for a quick release that meets a few criteria. The user shouldnt have to hold it, it should be easy to release, nothing can snap back at the user.... Well its been staring me in the face everyday...
I made up a short 'split tail' out of some 1/2" rigging line, tapered and melted the tail. Attached the HH to it and, in theory, once hoisted the user should just be able to slide right off the end. I made it long enough to have a stopper knot below the HH so there arent any mistakes. Nothing revolutionary by any means but it was a revelation for me!
I made up a short 'split tail' out of some 1/2" rigging line, tapered and melted the tail. Attached the HH to it and, in theory, once hoisted the user should just be able to slide right off the end. I made it long enough to have a stopper knot below the HH so there arent any mistakes. Nothing revolutionary by any means but it was a revelation for me!
NickfromWI
King of Splices
Why not just use a quick release snap shackle? We had one on our Giant Swing at the ropes course I used to work on and it worked perfect.
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nick
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nick
bonner1040
Nick from Ohio
You mean a panic snap? I put one on my BigShot, it recoiled with such force it snapped in half and it gave me a nasty blood blister...
The last time I was hoisted in the intended fasion,the force on the hardware/rigging was way higher then I normally encounter. By the time I was almost level with my anchor there was way more force than body weight on the lines. I am not an engineer so I cant quantify it for you but I was unable to take up even an 1" of slack with all my effort. I feel comfortable though that the HH can handle it.
The last time I was hoisted in the intended fasion,the force on the hardware/rigging was way higher then I normally encounter. By the time I was almost level with my anchor there was way more force than body weight on the lines. I am not an engineer so I cant quantify it for you but I was unable to take up even an 1" of slack with all my effort. I feel comfortable though that the HH can handle it.
NickfromWI
King of Splices
I can tell you with 100% confidence that the way we set it up, nothing would EVER snap back at the user. There isn't recoil. We have launched hundreds of kids with the same setup and people just simply don't get hurt with it. It is, dare I say, fool proof.
You have a carabiner on the haul rope, you have a carabiner on the swinger's harness. Clip the static eye of the snap shackle to the swinger's carabiner. Clip the opening eye of the shackle to the haul rope carabiner. Haul swinger in place, they pull the pull cord, let the fun ensue!
The HH is an amazing tool, but it's kinda hefty for this, no? Couldn't it slam down into someones knee or something like that?
Here's the snap shackle we used-
I swapped the pull cord for one that I made with a larger monkey's fist in it. Worked sharp.
Your system has the advantage of consisting of pieces you already have.
I use this snap shackle on my big shot, too. It's gentle- it doesn't recoil back at my hands.
You have a carabiner on the haul rope, you have a carabiner on the swinger's harness. Clip the static eye of the snap shackle to the swinger's carabiner. Clip the opening eye of the shackle to the haul rope carabiner. Haul swinger in place, they pull the pull cord, let the fun ensue!
The HH is an amazing tool, but it's kinda hefty for this, no? Couldn't it slam down into someones knee or something like that?
Here's the snap shackle we used-
I swapped the pull cord for one that I made with a larger monkey's fist in it. Worked sharp.
Your system has the advantage of consisting of pieces you already have.
I use this snap shackle on my big shot, too. It's gentle- it doesn't recoil back at my hands.
bonner1040
Nick from Ohio
Thats not the panic snap I used... That looks like the sherrill big shot release. We will see how the HH works out... I have two so atleast I will be cycle users through.
Jack
Treehouser
- Joined
- Sep 23, 2010
- Messages
- 2,537
Hey Nick, how'd you rig the panic snap that it hurt you? It would be good to share that as a safety alert for the rest of us.
NHlocal
TreeHouser
I use a Wichard snap shackle on my Bigshot with almost no recoil..... 
It's been working great for me, so far.
It's been working great for me, so far.
bonner1040
Nick from Ohio
I made up a new advancing tether for my HH a few weeks ago, but it was too short. Finally got around to making another. It is 8mm TVP and two layers of heat shrink.
I also worked up a hybrid adjustable eye thing I have been working on...I wanted to make a sling to hold an XRR, but have the ring be removable. The other objective was to eliminate the traditional tail seen on a whoopie or other adjustable splice. Its a traditional bury splice but it is lock stitched way down the tail so you can milk the eye bigger and smaller.
I also worked up a hybrid adjustable eye thing I have been working on...I wanted to make a sling to hold an XRR, but have the ring be removable. The other objective was to eliminate the traditional tail seen on a whoopie or other adjustable splice. Its a traditional bury splice but it is lock stitched way down the tail so you can milk the eye bigger and smaller.
rskybiz
TreeHouser
Nice!
NHlocal
TreeHouser
Nick,
that looks like another "multi use" custom piece of gear you made, very nice.
Is that also 8mm TVP?
that looks like another "multi use" custom piece of gear you made, very nice.
Is that also 8mm TVP?
bonner1040
Nick from Ohio
The XRR thing is 10mm TVP. Thanks BTW, for both pieces of cord Randy!
I can actually, after about a minute of fighting, wiggle a large 28/20 XRR into the big eye.
I can actually, after about a minute of fighting, wiggle a large 28/20 XRR into the big eye.
NHlocal
TreeHouser
It's all good Nick, you earned it.....
NHlocal
TreeHouser
Nick,
when we talked on the phone a short while ago you mentioned something about a longer Rigsaver, remind me again please the lengths you suggested???
I'm at the beginning stages of pulling together the materials for my next splicing project, possibly a longer Rigsaver.....
when we talked on the phone a short while ago you mentioned something about a longer Rigsaver, remind me again please the lengths you suggested???
I'm at the beginning stages of pulling together the materials for my next splicing project, possibly a longer Rigsaver.....
bonner1040
Nick from Ohio
The thing a long one would be good for would be equalizing two rigging points, like in the uSAVER videos... so maybe 15'?
NHlocal
TreeHouser
Thanks. 
Either that or replacing the body on my Rigsaver back to the length it "should" be.....
I've also been thinking of splicing myself a long climbing lanyard, I'm thinkin' 15' or more.....
Either that or replacing the body on my Rigsaver back to the length it "should" be.....
I've also been thinking of splicing myself a long climbing lanyard, I'm thinkin' 15' or more.....
NickfromWI
King of Splices
Mines over 20' and I love it
Kiwi
TreeHouser
This is a rope choice question, mainly as it relates to splicing.
As a new climber, I'm gathering 'tools', etc, as I realize I need them. I want to order a custom 2-eye lanyard that is long enough to go around the relatively small trees I'll be climbing, and use it with a pulley-attended friction knot to adjust slack as needed.
I'm thinking about 15-ft overall length should do it, but I have no idea what the best rope type might be for this lanyard - something with a fairly tough cover, and not necessarily super light-weight or high-tech?
I gather I have to allow an extra 3 ft of rope for each eye splice - does that sound right?
Should my first lanyard be made from 7/16" or 1/2" rope?
When adding eye-splices, are there any significant pros and cons for 16-strand vs. 24-strand rope?
Dumb question: I'm thinking of making this thing as multi-purpose as possible - is there anything dumb or disadvantageous about having different eye splice sizes at each end (small eye at one end and regular (5" ?) eye at the end tended by the friction knot)?
Thanks, Neil
As a new climber, I'm gathering 'tools', etc, as I realize I need them. I want to order a custom 2-eye lanyard that is long enough to go around the relatively small trees I'll be climbing, and use it with a pulley-attended friction knot to adjust slack as needed.
I'm thinking about 15-ft overall length should do it, but I have no idea what the best rope type might be for this lanyard - something with a fairly tough cover, and not necessarily super light-weight or high-tech?
I gather I have to allow an extra 3 ft of rope for each eye splice - does that sound right?
Should my first lanyard be made from 7/16" or 1/2" rope?
When adding eye-splices, are there any significant pros and cons for 16-strand vs. 24-strand rope?
Dumb question: I'm thinking of making this thing as multi-purpose as possible - is there anything dumb or disadvantageous about having different eye splice sizes at each end (small eye at one end and regular (5" ?) eye at the end tended by the friction knot)?
Thanks, Neil
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
Dunno about your other questions, but I use 1/2" rope and a Gibbs ascender.
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NickfromWI
King of Splices
For a lanyard I'd start with a 15' x 1/2". If you're doing 16 strand rope, yes- it's 2-3' extra per splice
love
nick
love
nick
bonner1040
Nick from Ohio
I think 12' is a good length, 1/2" rope is too big for my preference.
My understanding is that 16 strand is much more difficult to splice than 24 strand double braid.
My understanding is that 16 strand is much more difficult to splice than 24 strand double braid.
bonner1040
Nick from Ohio
I banged this out after lunch. 1/2" line, 36" overall.
NHlocal
TreeHouser
You're making some nice looking gear Nick! 
bonner1040
Nick from Ohio
Thanks Randy!
I was thinking of how to make an eyesplice that I could remove an XRR from... Last week I made this, it is a standard bury splice but I lockstitched it down the tail aways. You can milk the throat back enlarging the eye then milk it forward to close it up. Havent 'tested' it yet, dont really plan to use it but it was an interesting experiment.
I was thinking of how to make an eyesplice that I could remove an XRR from... Last week I made this, it is a standard bury splice but I lockstitched it down the tail aways. You can milk the throat back enlarging the eye then milk it forward to close it up. Havent 'tested' it yet, dont really plan to use it but it was an interesting experiment.
NHlocal
TreeHouser
That's a pretty good idea, post an update on how it works.
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