Yeah, the mig welder or stick welder dont do as good of a job at soaking the stud with heat. Sometimes you just train your torch on the stud a while before you add metal, help release the stud.
Machine shop will do fine.
Often times when an engine sits for a few years the condensation will rust up a valve in the guide and stick it. The rod will sometimes bend as a result when you try and start it.
Did you change the oil that sat in the engine or did the owner start and run the truck before you bought it? Did he change the oil?
I have seen water enter a cylinder and cause a hydro lock and bend rods, as well.
Did it run good and then suddenly start running poorly for you guys? Or did it always run this way?
The guy who tried to weld it for us practiced a bunch on a 5.4L Ford engine that he's replacing manifolds on, apparently he has gotten pretty good at it! Seems the heat in the stud you mentioned is the key.
It was started/moved around the lot by the seller, it ran with a bit of a miss but fine otherwise for us. It was driven home (2.5 hrs) on the oil that was in it, plus some running around locally to get things squared away on it, then we changed the oil. It ran fine for me saturday, went to crap on sunday. We cranked it over today with all the pushrods back in and everything seems ok. We still have a lack on compression in 1 cylinder, and 1 more stud to finish drilling/taping.
In other news, I finally wedged over a tree yesterday. We had this blue spruce in our front yard
which would have been just fine except for this little oak tree that sprouted itself underneath it.
So I trimmed the rest of the lower branches off to minimize its back lean, grabbed my wedges and maul and started cutting. I tried to keep the notch shallow to allow room for the bar and wedges, which just barely worked. When it sat back on the saw I had just enough room to get the wedges started, tapped them enough to get the saw released and gave it a few good whacks and over she went!
I left the hinge alone, in hindsight I probably should have thinned it a bit more but I was afraid of snapping the hinge. It was a low consequence scenario, which is why I wedged it over in the first place, but having it go over backward because the hinge snapped was a bit too scary for me to mess with. As you can see (pointed out by my foreman), the far side of the hinge held all the way to the ground. That was kinda cool as it held the trunk while I quartered it to fit into my burn barrel. My foreman then climbed up the stump, crawled across the trunk, stood up and walked back like it was the easiest balance beam ever.