Wood stove heat

Raj said:
Do you have a source for fans Justin? I use Alltemp or Hickeys, if I can't repair the old one.
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My only source would be oem I think Peter. I haven't had a big demand for it. But I could've sold one so far I'm sure.

Jim. Where there's a will there's a way.

I painted the sucker and now I'm fingering out my liner and will have to order it up.

Jay. 'The chimney sweep online' is a great source for info.

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FireFighterZero said:
Does it have to be that far from the wall?
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No it doesn't have to be that far. That wall behind it is masonry with mortar on it. And that pipe setup is a little goofy too. I installed that stove and a liner and that's what set me into motion learning all about woodburning and eventually cleaning, code, and all that business.

I actually installed it that far away because that's about exactly where the old stove was. Lol. I do like the space around it though. But now I would go with two 45's and probably use double wall pipe instead of single wall. Anyone who's ever wondered, make no doubt about it. Double wall connecting pipe is far far superior in performance to single wall. It stays way cleaner.

Jim the style of an insert can have a lot to do with whether or not they can heat effectively at all without a blower. Obviously the ones that stick further out do a better job without a fan. Also whether it's an interior or exterior chimney. Interior chimneys are much better, espescially in masonry. A exterior masonry chimney can rob a ton of heat. Not much r-value in a masonry chimney.
 
Jim a insert without a fan will still be much more efficient than a open masonry fireplace. A open masonry fireplace is moving air out the flue at 200-600cfm. It is literally uncontrolled combustion, being fed copious amounts of your homes air. For most masonry fireplaces, espescially exterior ones, but interior ones too, there is a overall net loss of heat for the home. The room it's in will get warm, the masonry will absorb heat and give some of that back(or transfer it outdoors), but the far reaches of the home will be effectively cooled.

A modern EPA insert will reburn its own exhaust, not only burning much much cleaner but creating much more heat by burning off the nasty in the firebox as fuel, instead of belching them out as smoke and pollution.

Burning without re-burn technology is a fools errand. Such a huge waste of fuel. And pollution to boot.
 
You have no power even nearby your fireplace? A lot of people just tuck the cord down around the edge and run it to the nearest outlet.
 
Yeah, I could run the cord out front. The fire place is a huge affair, made out of field rocks grandpa hauled home.

It has a steel fire box and the sliding glass doors on the front....sorta looks like an insert.

Thanks for the info Justin.
 
Throw up a pic if you get a chance. Here's my fireplace that I'm going to put that insert into.

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And my little buddy Koda enjoying the fire. RIP little man.

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Squish, my PE Summit is finally getting here after filing a Paypal dispute.....

Would you advise burning a fire in it outside of the house before we instal it?? Seen some folks do that before with new stoves
 
If it's painted it might not be a bad idea. Nothing makes my wife crazy (er) than me stinking up the house.
 
Up to you. I burned mine off in the house. You can do it outside but each new high temp you hit will stink a bit for the first time. But atleast you'll get the brunt of it outside. You'll have to stick a bit of pipe on it I would think if you want to be able to get it up to temp.

PE's instructions are vague for giving actual running temps. I'd be looking to monitor flue temps and stove top temps if you can on the classic? If yOu can't use a magnet thermometer on the top a IR thermometer could be handy for shooting through the fins to the stovetop. You want to make sure yOu get that sucker up to temp, so you get good secondary combustion. Cruising around 500 stovetop will make good secondaries. You can push as high as 700 stovetop 750 if you dare when you're asking it for a little extra.

What sort of pipe/chimney are you hooking it up to?

My summits been burning for three days straight, and I'm just settling in it's bedtime load right now.
 
Also note your first couple of fires should be break in fires so not right up to temp. This is to drive moisture out of the bricks and to cure the paint.
 
I can certainly cook on mine if I ever wanted to. Paul's is fancier with porcelain enamel covers but it still has a trivet on top for cooking.
 
I wish I'd had my mason set my flue thimble at 6' instead of 30". Vertical venting with high thimble really puts off the heat. Mine's vented straight back into the wall, so little heat is gained from the pipe.
 
I know lots of people scavenge heat from the pipe but honestly the heat is meant to come from the appliance not the pipe. The more heat you take off the pipe. Ie single wall vs double wall or longer connecting pipe runs in general the more creosote there will be in the flue. Even if you don't see it in the connecting pipe it's causing more buildup further up the chimney/flue.
 
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