Wood stove heat

Presumably three, but "facecord" is a meaningless term. It can mean anything you want. Cord or ft^3 is the only terminology I use.
 
Interesting. I don't think we have that in MD, and I never heard the term til I got into this stuff on the internet.
 
16" is standard, here, overall. A face-cord would be one row, 4x8', so 1/3 cord.

Only $200-$250/ cord of doug-fir.
 
I have no idea what the going price even is here. "Ricks" seem popular along the roadsides. That's $20-$25 for 2'x4'x16"? Never bought any, but that's the eyeball measure at 50mph.
 
unit of sale here is most commonly a face cord. a face cord is also very close to what you can comfortably load unstacked in the bed of a pickup.
 
Patrick A said:
Whenever I sold or bought firewood, made sure the stacked pile measured 4 by 4 by 8. Then I paid or got paid for a cord.
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I have my wood stacked in 4x8 (1 face) and 6x8 (1.5face) and 8x8 (2face)racks so the customer can see exactly what he’s getting ...
 
Around here to the best of my knowledge (since I don't buy it, I get my own) hardwood is $80-120 per face cord depending on delivery and stacking and who you get it from.

My stove has a powerful centrifugal blower on it, well it only uses 200W, but its output seems a lot higher than those stove top fans and other internal blowers. I still think the heat extraction efficiency of the stove is terrible as are probably most stove designs no matter how much pride you have in your stove.
 
Firewood sells by the tonne here...it's confusing...
We burn whatever we bring home from work, but this last winter our woodheap was a bit thin...too much still needed to dry so we got a couple loads from some friends who do firewood, nice dried eucalypt, man that stuff is nice!
 
You can put clear or black visueen over split and stacked wood, and it'll dry out much much much faster. I've had buddy's that have messed up and not had enough and were above to dry a few load in a couple months to finish up winter. Even in the dead of winter you would have sheets of ice rolling out from under the tarp. I know it's not correct and you risk creosote buildup, but if you are broke and heating solely with wood it'll do.
 
Make a Holz Hausen to speed dry wood ... DO NOT burn wet unseasoned wood ! You’ll get nada heat and risk creosote buildup and a fire... Ash and shagbark hickory are about the only wood indigenous to my are that you can burn slightly unseasoned ! Plan ahead ! Stay 2 (or more preferably 3 seasons )AHEAD of the game and you will always have enough dry firewood to keep your fanny toasty warm !
 
shagbark does pretty well with only a few days of dry time, but it will be a cold fire. I got a stainless pipe put in my chimney, so no worry about creosote. I just build a hot fire at the end of the year and leave the door open for full draft, and it's all clean or ash at the top of the pipe. ACS helps too.
 
Nutball said:
shagbark does pretty well with only a few days of dry time, but it will be a cold fire. I got a stainless pipe put in my chimney, so no worry about creosote. I just build a hot fire at the end of the year and leave the door open for full draft, and it's all clean or ash at the top of the pipe. ACS helps too.
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I’ve got triple wall stainless - the best available... Even still I’d be loathe to burn unseasoned wood - creosote will stick / accumulate and eventually a chimney fire will occur ... believe it or not rock salt or better yet potato peels tossed on the burning coals can mitigate the risk somewhat if you absolutely MUST burn unseasoned wood (not recommended) ... I’ll burn 24/7 once it gets cold - burning seasoned wood all thru the winter will result in maybe a 1/2 12oz cup of spooge when sweeping the chimney with 99% of it at the top of the pipe
 
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