Wood stove heat

Beautiful stove Dave. I know from some of your other posts/advice from the past that you are quite a educated wood burner.

Cory thsose ecofans? Well. I hear a lot of mixed reviews about the. Some love them, a lot seem to not. I don't use one. But I don't use a fan at all.

Willie. Yes the shop install is a bit bogus. Should have a properly framed ceiling support box and some flashing on the roof side too from the looks of it. Otherwise. Let 'er rip!
 
What a lovely stove, Dave.
Nice doggies, too.

All I use for heat is wood, I just don't have a stove, but have gone the furnace/central heating way instead.

A modern, blower fed furnace with sensors all over to ensure clean burn,hooked up to a large buffer tank, is a wonderful thing.

Mine automatically adjust the amount of air to fit the water content of the wood, and the temperature of the smoke, to make sure we are running at max efficiency ( read, clean smoke) at all times.

Chimney cleaner absolutely loves it.
 
I don't have a basement, so no.

Be a bitch to drag all that wood down there anyway.

It lives in it's own little cozy and fireproof room in the back of my shop.

Fireproof because of insurance paranoia.
 
My stove is in the basement and I carry every stick down myself. No biggie to me. My basement stove heats my whole house(about 2400-2500 sq/ft). Finished and insulated basement otherwise you can lose a ton of your heat trying to heat from an uninsulated basement.

Stig if your sweep is happy you know you've got a good system and you're running it right. I get people talking to me about how dry their wood is and how well they burn. I jokingly usually stop them and tell them 'look, you can't fool the sweep by the time I've finished cleaning illl know exactly what you've been up to'. Lol.
 
Exactly.
Happy sweeper is the best indication.
Like a light brown spark plug in a saw:D
 
Just as the plug tells the tale of how the saws been ran. There's no fooling the sweep about what you've been putting in the stove.
 
squisher said:
Willie. Yes the shop install is a bit bogus. Should have a properly framed ceiling support box and some flashing on the roof side too from the looks of it. Otherwise. Let 'er rip!
Click to expand...

I'll Google the ceiling support, thanks.
Question, how would the double wall pipe in my exterior chimney put more heat in my house?
 
Squish, finally going to install new pe summit this weekend

Any advice on how to break her in, haven't found much info on that aspect
 
Start small and have progressively larger and hotter and longer fires for your first handful and you'll be good. If you didn't burn it off outside like you said be prepared for some rank off gassing when you first hit some hotter temps. Like 400+ stove top. A open window nearby and a fan sucking the fumes out is recommended. Once it's cured the paint you'll get some smell each new high temp you hit but nowhere near as bad as the initial baking of the paint.
 
I did burn a small fire outside but didn't really get it hot yet as I haven't put the fire bricks in yet so didn't know if that was ok
 
Let us know how it went Paul.

I redid my insert and lit the first fire in it today. I did a crazy insulated liner install on the chimney too. I got doors open and a fan running to suck out the new paint stench.

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Ive got a Vermont casting resolute acclaim and it sure put out some heat!

Burning some live oak and pacific Madrone ;)

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sotc said:
Question, how would the double wall pipe in my exterior chimney put more heat in my house?
Click to expand...

Bump.


Clean look to that insert.


We're talking about a remodel to that end of the house. Knocking that wall and chimney out. What would an ideal install look like?
 
Im using a single wall pipe, lots more interior heat for my set-up...my stove pipe is 20ft tall though!
 
sotc said:
Bump.


Clean look to that insert.


We're talking about a remodel to that end of the house. Knocking that wall and chimney out. What would an ideal install look like?
Click to expand...

Sorry Willie.

Double wall connecting pipe is different than double wall chimney pipe, which is again different from an insulated liner.

So double wall connecting pipe vs single wall connecting pipe. Double wall will always give superior performance, safety, and longevity.

It keeps exhaust gases and therefore your chimney as a whole hotter and the hotter it is the harder it draws. The harder your chimney draws on a modern appliance the more you can cut your air back and maintain strong secondary combustion which is the most efficient. So that's the performance part. Double wall pipe has reduced certified clearances generally of six inches whereas single wall connecting pipe is 18"s to combustibles. Also by keeping your exhaust and chimney warmer and pulling harder less creosote is deposited in your pipe or chimney. That's the safety part. Lastly double wall connecting pipe will last in definetly its stainless inside. Single wall connecting pipe 5-10years. Tops. That's the longevity part.

So. That should clear that up. Lol. Single wall pipe is fine to use, I use it as a connecting pipe on my downstairs stove, but when it is doneski I'll replace it with double wall.

Now to suggest to you the ultimate setup I'd need to know if you are for sure knocking down the old chimney or not? If you are I'd go freestanding stove, double wall connecting pipe straight up to the ceiling then to class a chimney pipe straight up and out, no offsets. If you're going to keep the masonry chimney then I'd look to reline it with a insulated rigid or flex liner. Once you insulate a liner your performance and safety go way up. Makes it zero clearance to combustibles on the outside of the masonry once you drop a insulated liner in.

Scott! Beauty stove and setup. I'm super jealous of that wood bro!
 
Willie I like your father in laws set up to. If there was room to with clearances I think a archway across the top that sort of hid the offset at the top of the pipe would look great. I know people do whatever works for them but the clearance to combustibles that is always on the data sticker on a certified stove is not just meant for the walls and stuff. Nothing combustible is meant to be kept within those minimum clearances. Safety lesson over. Lol.

Also on the roof, if that is more than five feet of unsupported chimney pipe it needs a brace to tie it to the roof to be to code. I'm meaning from where the one brace is at the roofline. If from that brace to the top of the chimney is 5' or more it needs another brace.
 
Great explanation, thanks.

If we do the remodel the chimney would go. First floor would get pushed out several feet.

I'd bet he's right at 5 feet up there. As to the combustibles.... I'll let you tell him :D though the wood storage under the firebox is factory...
 
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