Welders? Any welders on this site?

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My new boiler has been delivered, so I took off the old one.
But as it was now free and empty of the sanitary water (separate internal reservoir for the hot water) I thought why not flip it on its back and make an other try at welding it. I was ashamed by the previous result. I still have some pride or I'm stubborn. Probably both.
I blew a new hole bigger than the first ones, used 19 rods total to weld my 1.5x5" patch (about the 2/3 converted to dust by the grinder) and I absolutely don't want to see what it looks like from the inside ! But the welds being horizontal instead of vertical made an huge difference in the outcome. It still took me three attempts, but finally I got it air tight. It looks awful and has a ton of unneeded metal, but at least it can hold 30 psi. No bubble with the foam spray. 8)

You may ask, why more trouble while I have already the replacement.
First, my pride gets in the way. Two, bolting the old one back in place solves an issue: I can try to clean the old pipes and radiators from all the accumulated mud and dirty stuff without contaminating the delicate high performance boiler. The system has to run for weeks with a cleaning product. I bet I can't get all the nasty out but the plan is to use the old bolier to collect the crap dislodged. Then, a rinse, an other cleaning, and now the exchange can be made with some chances of success. I just hope that the old one can hold that long. Will see.
 
I got my threader in the basement today. It might be a restoration project by itsellf. I did find the actual threading die. A Rigid 504. 1 1/4" to 2". I'll have to get my pipe vise from the farm down there, too. Does anyone know anything about the 504? Thanks.
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If you notice when you flip the lever the dies either open or close. Adjust to size if it's not there. Fill the thing with cutting oil, when the die is down it should rain on the pipe, completely covering the thread cutting, you need a ton of oil. Cut your threads, go one thread past the end of the dies, then open the dies with it still spinning. Don't stop the machine with the dies engaged. Spin a fitting on til it's hand tight, then count the turns as you spin it off. Adjust them til you get 3.5 turns ideally, 3 to 4 is usually close enough. Cut each wrong thread off, you need to set it cutting threads on just pipe, not chasing them deeper. Then you're ready to start cutting and threading your pieces once the die is correctly set.
 
I've got a die like that .The last I used it was to thread a 2" pipe for the exhaust of one of my dozers .It had been years since I threaded any pipe of that size by hand and it took a 4 foot cheater pipe to help it along . My skinny little 175 pounds these days just didn't have it any more . That style of die has a built in 3/4" taper per foot,standard pipe thread . .Before you clamp it down make sure it's backed off to the starting mark .Else not only will you get a short thread you won't be able to get it started .
The type manifold on that old 1954 Waukesha gasoline engine was 2". I had to borrow a 2" pipe tap to chase the rusty threads .Largest I have is 11/2" pipe .
 
I recommend daily stretching, it also helps improve arterial bloodflow, which adds size. Don't get to ambitious at first, lots of little steps, slowly increasing your range of motion. YMMV.
 
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