Welders? Any welders on this site?

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it was the mounting of the hitch receiver on the truck that failed. It was not an issue of breakage, but rather that the receiver folded over to the side, rotating a bit and bending the mount points it was welded to.

The winch mount, a slide-in unit for a 2 inch receiver, manufactured by Warn, was undamaged. All the bending/folding/twisting was in the receiver mount on the truck.

Good deal, thx sir, that makes me feel better about it all. I was wondering on that since most hitches don't have any cross bracing or side to side stiffening at all, and even change elevation so there's even more of a twisting load on the single side plates. With that in mind i will likely will beef up the frame now on my log trailer so that twisting is prevented better, and probably check my rear hitch on my truck if i ever want to do a winch there (unlikely since i plan on one on the front of the bed i hope to build someday). I got the idea from the grcs mount thing, but as the loads go up with bigger winches its gotta have better design to account for it. I'll still likely do a hitch swap design for my different projects since it's so handy, but I'll make sure that there's minimal torque on it and account for that load better now.

If Dave went so far as to build a custom front bumper, i would think that since it comes straight out and basically boxes the frame in the front that a hitch mounted winch wouldn't be an issue, especially on that light of truck, as there would be no twisting moment. It would have to be substantial enough to handle the torque of course, but it wouldn't be 2 flat plates being bent sideways like a rear hitch, the plates simply attach the tube/ pipe bumper section to the frame rather than welding them. The rear hitches that you bolt on are very flimsy in the side to side direction since it's only a plate (thx again, i never even considered that before, learn something every day!).

If one would weld some angle or flat to the bottom of the hitch plates that would stiffen them immensely, as would adding some cross braces. On a front bumper you could possibly also add a skid plate going back further to the frame which would stiffen it even further if desired, I'll look into that if/when i get ready to do mine. I definitely agree a dedicated winch mount is superior since it's not sticking out further than needed tho, but i think a front bumper has a far better design to handle the load of a hitch mounted one. Building it so it has 2 receiver tubes rather than 1 would also be a decent idea, and i think i might do that on my log trailer to help spread the load of the large hand winch since the line angle is horrible. Thx again.
 
I'm just replacing the rusty chrome part. Ordered last night, arriving tomorrow. $161. Right now I don't have time or money for projects. I'll run this thing for a while, then maybe think about modding it.
 
Operation FrankenBoiler is underway. My neighbors must love me. :/:
I'm stripping all the tin and electrical bs off. The tin because it's smashed and in the way of structural repairs, and the electrical stuff to increase reliability from questionable, to 99.9% bulletproof. There will still be two electrical parts, the factory draft door solenoid, ($30 anywhere online, and I have at least one in stock) and a Honeywell aquastat. $125 at the Depot, also have maybe ten high limit aquastats in stock that should work. I will build a building over it in place of the tin. Luckily there was another spot to put the aquastat well next to the original temp sensor. I will probably hook the digital display up for easy monitoring, but not to control the draft, as it is another of those fail points that can shut you down for days.

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I'm completely amazed that you can weld on that. My boiler is in a way better shape than this one and I failed miserably my welding attempts.
 
I came to the conclusion that it's some kind of magical stuff and I'm clearly no wizard at all. On my boiler, I've lost my time. My confidence too.
Maybe if I bolt it off and put it on its back to weld horizontally, I may be able to get some results, but vertically seems a forbidden territory for me. Even with the help of the net LOL. A thing I learned: my rod 6013 commonly available around here is actually almost never used by the welders, just in school to teach the apprentices, like if you perform well with this crap, you can use anything else ! :D
I know, it's just a poor excuse.
My brother gave me an other one: the metal of the bikes's exhaust can be welded quite nicely when new, but not anymore after some use. I don't know if the changes in the metal are similar, but I take this excuse too:lol:

Now about the chemical version. I haven't seen the JBweld on the market here. I guess that there are some epoxy blends of the same quality, but some others worth nothing. I can't test them to find out the best for me.
So I officially threw the towel and a new boiler will come in soon. I hope, because the temps are finally lowering noticeably.
 
“6013 commonly available around here is actually almost never used by the welders”

I can’t think of anything anyone would weld using 6013.
 
6010, 6011. Use it, learn it, watch yourself succeed. 7018 for high strength stuff, after the cellulose rods it'll be child's play, still use them for the first pass tho. I would only use 6013 if the apocalypse happened and i had already used all the other rods on earth :lol: It does work fine tho, just is very slow comparitively, I've seen stuff from Europe where they use it on pipe even.

Good job Dave for taking that on, that would intimidate most people!
 
Any pics? Maybe chisel off the insulation and see what you got? Get some more plate and replace whole sides?
 
I've got a contact for a guy that might repair the other boiler. I think there is going to be about 60 feet of weld to plate the bottom of the firebox. Not sure I can get in there to do it on account of being claustrophobic. :|:
 
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