The Official Work Pictures Thread

3/4 inch chokers are like 10k.. and you can barrel them without the overlapping straps.

Looks ready for the stump grinder...

Hi Gary.
Heres some more shots of that slack line thing...
 

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That is an excellent excellent picture...re. Cory's stump.

Deva.. Great pictures of the slackline / trapeze contraption. They've got some good stuff going on there. Thanks for the detail.
 
Cory, I am an experiential learner. Years ago we were picking the butt log of a big oak and the crane op said lets bust out a brand new sling as this is going to be heavy! We just chocked the log through itself with no shackle and just one sling. As he cabled up and the log tilted the tension on the eye just melted straight through itself and dropped the log right beside me.

I like chains, so much superior in every regard IMO
 
How specifically does it help you?

Personally, I tend to undermine the COG, and use gravity, with or without a full/ partial hinge.
 
As he cabled up and the log tilted the tension on the eye just melted straight through itself

That is insane.

Imma ask about that.

The only problems with slings that I've heard of is they don't bite into the bark the way wire slings do so sometimes Ive heard of a log slipping completely out of its bark sleeve, especially in Spring when sap is running, and if it wasn't choked under a knob or rugosity

I've never tried nor seen chains used, I know you use em so they must be good. :drink:
 
My crane guy hasn't used chains but says they sound like a good idea although they'd be heavier and have a 4/1 safety factor vs 5/1 for slings.
 
Chains are cool, but are heavy as f. Side loading a hook is a huge no no as well. I know it's done all day every day, just saying tho. I've used a ton of nylon straps for heavy rigging, never had a problem but they were always fully tightened by hand on a smooth pipe surface or shackle rather than a tree which would grab like hell and likely make it choke up under tension. When the weights go up the tolerability of doing stuff wrong goes down, so proper rigging practices with shackles on loops, proper d sized stuff, no shock loading, etc can really make a huge difference. That being said, wire rope slings are about the best bang for the buck if the surface can tolerate it, and on trees you don't care so i would think that they would be ideal.

If you are having problems with them getting all kinked, maybe look into getting more flexible ones, with 7x36 construction rather than 7x19 if that's what you're getting, or maybe fiber core rather than wire, or maybe even some gator flex kind where they make them from really small wires so they're super flexible. The size of shackle/ connection can make a huge difference too, ever seen how they curl up ribbon when wrapping a present? They take a sharp edge of a knife and rub it on the ribbon, which stretches one side making it curl. The diameter of the connection (the d measurement) is what measures how sharp that is, so try to use more rounded (aka bigger) stuff. The choker eye connections are about the best, or maybe switch to an endless grommet so it uses a smaller diameter rope and you aren't choking it in the same place everytime.

Wire rope is safer than chain which is why it replaced it in the first place, 1 weak link in a chain and it fails but wire rope will show the condition far easier on inspection. Having said that tho, chain tolerates abuse, i spent all week rigging pipe down with chain falls and boiler hitches, the whole time cringing about the abuse it does to the hook but the stuff was slammed up against the roof and we're babying it way under wll (I'm talking like 1/3 of the wll, so 15 to 1 at most). The thing i really do like about chains is that you can get them with the adjustable grab hook master link thing, so you can have bridles that are adjustable so you can balance stuff, i even got some for my winch thing i like them so much lol.
 
I just put it out there, what people do with it is their call. I get some stuff is different, but rigging is rigging.
 
How specifically does it help you?

Personally, I tend to undermine the COG, and use gravity, with or without a full/ partial hinge.


Because it reduces the cuts, especially ones at an angle, which up a tree with a larger saw are tiring and difficult to execute.
Here I was putting the saw in, getting halfway, putting the lever in as a wedge to stop the saw pinching.
Feathering it all the way through, then pressing down on the lever to push the piece off, being careful to twist the saw (which was held by the log at the back of the cut) free as the piece left.

Admittedly this was a leaning tree so easier, but on a poker straight stem a snap cut will work just as well.
 
Did that mean catching the falling saw on one arm?




Pushing heavy, snap-cut pieces is too much work.

I generally use the smaller end saws for aerial tasks...and looking into lightweight bars.

Narrow faces cut faster than steep angle cuts.

Large dogs on my ms261 & 461.

A Dutchman on the compression side, allows more sideways action sideways to the lean.


Different strokes.
I don't want more steel to carry.
 
The saw? No

Option 1: A step cut using the lever, in which case the saw is free to be stowed (or hang in my case) then lever it off with the bar.

Option 2: As in this case, feather it all the way through, using the lever as a wedge to stop it pinching, the saw will jam at the last bit (but will have completely cut the lump) lever the piece off but, using your right hand, twist the saw to follow it off the spar to prevent damage to the bar/chain.
Best illustrated in the first short vid of that IG reel.
 
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Small felling lever would be nice to have in the truck. I have a pry bar. My go to for smaller wood is my wedge and hatchet on crabs. Tap a wedge in and slide the wood off on stuff up to about 18". When we did a large spar that we had to take rounds off one at a time, we used dowels I set up in throw line hooked to a crab. They just slide right off. 36" bar with an 066. With the lean on that stem you were on Mick, they were already wanting to go where they went. Nice job.
 
I use a wedge and pry bar when dealing with huge rounds
 
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