lumberjack
Young man on the go
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The Official Work Pictures Thread
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Frankie
I Build and Run Ported Saws !
That’s a heckuva machine ya got there! Looks like some feature an 85hp ford engine , others 80hp (?) . Approx how many hours run-time do ya get on a set of fangs ?
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
That thing is a loverly beast Carl. 
A few peeps including me. This season I'm burning 90% locust with the rest being oak n ash.
Mad respect for Jed and the others who heat exclusively with wood
Crazy how little ashes fir creates. One season I collected a huge pile of D fir 2x4 studs to burn up, I figured Oooo, I have kiln dried wood here, both the kindling and the bulk wood all in one!! Um I was sorta amazed that is was not good. Yes, very little ash but the heat produced seemed weak. I honestly was confused. Not throwing any shade whatsoever on you folks who use it and love it. It's just different wood for different regions as noted several times above.
Im digging your stump pics, Carl
Carl, I like the machine sounds way better than music. Er, it is music.
Who is going to clean up those mountains of grindings?
Crazy to me you would grind with only safety glasses on. I use swing out controls. My grinder once threw a rock about 60 feet and put a nice dent in the door of my new bucket truck. Another time a smaller grinder threw a rock and broke a sliding glass door. I would say generally that I'm acutely aware of rocks while grinding but both of those escaped stealthily.
Who is going to clean up those mountains of grindings?
Crazy to me you would grind with only safety glasses on. I use swing out controls. My grinder once threw a rock about 60 feet and put a nice dent in the door of my new bucket truck. Another time a smaller grinder threw a rock and broke a sliding glass door. I would say generally that I'm acutely aware of rocks while grinding but both of those escaped stealthily.
Burnham
Woods walker
That is an amazing machine, Carl.
I'm just wondering...I think (not know
) that one could have taken a significant bit of that oak stump down ALAP style, say 18 inches maybe, in 10 minutes or less with a big saw. Would that not have saved much more time grinding than that?
I'm just wondering...I think (not know
) that one could have taken a significant bit of that oak stump down ALAP style, say 18 inches maybe, in 10 minutes or less with a big saw. Would that not have saved much more time grinding than that?
Frankie
I Build and Run Ported Saws !
By ALAP I’m assuming you mean “as low as possible” Or something else ?
Burnham
Woods walker
Fer crimminy's sakes...on this website you have to ask a question like that? Darn firewooder....
Sorry...yes. Some would offer "practical" or "practicable" as an alternative.
.Sorry...yes. Some would offer "practical" or "practicable" as an alternative.
Not sure what it cost, Stig. The crane company and myself donated our time.
Cory, yes the crane had to assist the flatbed on the turn out. The flatbed was extendable from 50’-80’, so we built that out before we did the tree.
lumberjack
Young man on the go
The RG80s are all 85hp Fords, as far as I’ve seen.
Used to get around 20 hours out of a set of teeth, but like any cutting edge, that can be cut short in a hurry.
The pines will have a landscaper come through in the spring to establish grass, I’m not sure what will happen with the oak.
I assume you’re talking about a face shield? Not much rock here aside from gravel and concrete. I normally stand perpendicular to the wheel’s rotation.
lumberjack
Young man on the go
That is an amazing machine, Carl.
I'm just wondering...I think (not know
So 18” would have cut the exposed wood in half, roughly.
This was 32 minutes after I started, between the axles I’d ground into the dirt and the stump was roughly ground level where the tires were (easier to climb).
This was an hour into the grinding... the stump was 9’ in diameter where it touched the grass, and the grass was mounded roughly a foot higher than common grade.
Filled up the fuel tanks and grinder after the fun.
PCTREE
Treehouser
I wonder if folks realize when you pull up to the pump with that that it is worth way more than their car
flushcut
TreeHouser
Probably not Paul.
So Carl do you often drive your stumper to the gas station?
So Carl do you often drive your stumper to the gas station?
lumberjack
Young man on the go
Reckon it depends on the car, but folks are usually friendly/not stuck up. When I was getting gas the first time that day, a woman at another pump warned me that the side door was open on the enclosed trailer.
Second time that day 😂.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
A modern 2x4 may have been cut out of its own, 3-year old tree (well, 4x4"s seen to all be with/ near pith).A few peeps including me. This season I'm burning 90% locust with the rest being oak n ash.
Mad respect for Jed and the others who heat exclusively with wood
Crazy how little ashes fir creates. One season I collected a huge pile of D fir 2x4 studs to burn up, I figured Oooo, I have kiln dried wood here, both the kindling and the bulk wood all in one!! Um I was sorta amazed that is was not good. Yes, very little ash but the heat produced seemed weak. I honestly was confused. Not throwing any shade whatsoever on you folks who use it and love it. It's just different wood for different regions as noted several times above.
Im digging your stump pics, Carl
Low surface area (planed is low surface area) to volume ratio isn't helping.
I've had fir stubs sink in water once, at a tree-in-lake job.
Frankie
I Build and Run Ported Saws !
Just finished the mods on the STIHL bar to allow use on the 572xp ... little more work than simply milling the bar slot (or grinding/filing) as the 572xp chain adjustment pin is larger than the 395xp and you need to open up the holes on the bar also ... I find the STIHL bar to be more “robust” - it is thicker belly to belly than the Husqvarna
pantheraba
More biners!!!
Wait a minute...I thought you were mainly a "fix/mod saws and cut firewood guy"...why is there some cool rope peeking over the right edge of the picture?
fine pic there. I have a brand new unused 572 sitting under my bench, wanted to exchange it for a 576, dealer finally says they aren't available anymore, so I guess I'll fire up the 572. Pita that the outside dogs from a 576 don't fit a 572.
Frankie
I Build and Run Ported Saws !
Ive been doing a lot of dead ash trees and have a maasdam rope puller to assist felling/ for safety. @Jonny has given assistance with gear (he seems to favor mech adv pulleys and rope) and climbing/setting rope topping when necessary ... The ash (when alive) can be felled using wedges however when they are dying/dead a lot of times if ya wedge bang dead limbs can come hurtling down from movement / vibration ... The rope puller gives added security if the tree is rotted / hollow to aid in directional falling ... Once on the ground the ported saws / mauls / axes and (if enough wood to warrant use) the SuperSplit come out and the tree converted to useable product on the spot.
Frankie
I Build and Run Ported Saws !
The 576xp is still available. I’d say you cant go wrong with either one - both very smooth cutting saws however the 572xp has a 39mm stroke vs a 36mm for the 576xp. With the right “flow - enhancements” and muffler modifications the 572xp can produce a lotta torque - with 25” bar it’s just a fuzz behind the ported 395xp in that size wood ... Even with 32” it doesn’t lag behind as much as a guy wood think ... I can tighten the squish and easily gain about .5-.8hp but they run a bit “warmer” ... There’s a west coast kit available for the 572xp that upgrades the saw considerably for not much coin ... OEM Husqvarna 572 XP/XPG Front Handle Wrap Kit - https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwj-x766wuztAhVBnLMKHR0JAZkYABAEGgJxbg&ae=2&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESP-D2T-5yBX6hBr93V_BOdiP16cY3S3CwjxWQ-qc90cgQfn1oriMgCqKVpPDmvedpp3D90KKt51DpsBtV9u0pPQ&sig=AOD64_1_HrfciKaHiPbzmLlpPifiaDaEsQ&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjJrLG6wuztAhXFEVkFHR6KDGEQwg96BAgBEA8&adurl=
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I have not. I ran 372s for ages when they were legendary till near their end when they got chitty and hard to start, imo. I switched to 576 and have been very happy with them. You?
Frankie
I Build and Run Ported Saws !
You have a brand new 572xp and haven’t fired it up / made some cuts?
Jed
TreeHouser
OK five gauge 3/8 pitch, and 84 drivers, but what chisel sequence do you think would be best for your 572?
(Sorry brothers... this is all voice-texted In haste over my phone and therefore Nauseating to read, but perhaps better than nothing.)
recently I have been trying to make my way through some scrap chain, and definitely ain’t guaranteeing nothing... also… I would never dream of charging you for a single chain, because I just hate the idea of charging for something that isn’t sustainable: I.E. You hit the dirt, and you’re done.
I think it is very important for everyone who uses round chain to know that if one is merely cutting by feel, then very often if not always, round chain will generally have much better “feel,” e.g. “pull” than square. This is because the “hook,” (on round chisel) and almost more importantly, the flat spot on the side plate that the hook produces, Is what is responsible for producing the “pull” that is generally attributed to round ground. Think Buckin Billy Ray’s stand up and buck stuff.The round chain, with the same raker height, generally pulls the user into the wood harder, because of the mechanical operation of the hook of the round side plate. The hook on a round filed side plate is approximately 30°. The hook on a square filed side plate is, believe it or not, about 40°, Even though the top plate angle comes out at only 19 or 20°. and therefore, although it’s severs the wood more expediently, does not pull as hard as the lesser angled round filed side plate. This is really useful for loggers who are working on the landing, who are trying to buck smaller diameter logs to spec with 70 cc motor heads on 32 inch, skip tooth guide bars. They don’t have to be bending over, and they don’t have to physically push the bar into the wood Because the hook of the round chisel is so advantageous for pulling the chain down through the wood. Of course, a guy is sacrificing a lot of Motörhead power for this, but in certain applications, it’s like, who cares?
I remember years ago, when a guy came out from Philadelphia, who is still to this day one of the best overall tree men I personally know Tried out my saw with the square edge… He was like, this chain is lame. I was like, oh yeah, well then let’s go partner. My chain on the same size motorhead beat him through 24 inch wood with about fourSeconds to spare.
if anyone actually reads all of this, I will be totally amazed, but, this is also why a guys raker height is so terribly critical, for the application that he is desiring his chain for, is he crosscutting? Is he ripping? is he making bias cuts, i.e. diagonal cuts? Ie face cuts. I can think of many a round chain guy, who’s saw it was just cracking until he tries to make the diagonal cut on the face. Now he just stalls the motor, and cannot even feather the guide bar with no use of the dogs at all through the stupid diagonal.
in other words Frankie, I now know what pitch gauge and driver count you want, but I would also like to know what chisel sequence and raker height you want.
I will PM you for your address if I can scare up some five gauge, (for some reason our shop only uses 63 gauge) with the type of chisel sequence, and raker height which you might want.
Wow, this was super annoying to read…Sorry boys I will try to get on the laptop next time LOL.
(Sorry brothers... this is all voice-texted In haste over my phone and therefore Nauseating to read, but perhaps better than nothing.)
recently I have been trying to make my way through some scrap chain, and definitely ain’t guaranteeing nothing... also… I would never dream of charging you for a single chain, because I just hate the idea of charging for something that isn’t sustainable: I.E. You hit the dirt, and you’re done.
I think it is very important for everyone who uses round chain to know that if one is merely cutting by feel, then very often if not always, round chain will generally have much better “feel,” e.g. “pull” than square. This is because the “hook,” (on round chisel) and almost more importantly, the flat spot on the side plate that the hook produces, Is what is responsible for producing the “pull” that is generally attributed to round ground. Think Buckin Billy Ray’s stand up and buck stuff.The round chain, with the same raker height, generally pulls the user into the wood harder, because of the mechanical operation of the hook of the round side plate. The hook on a round filed side plate is approximately 30°. The hook on a square filed side plate is, believe it or not, about 40°, Even though the top plate angle comes out at only 19 or 20°. and therefore, although it’s severs the wood more expediently, does not pull as hard as the lesser angled round filed side plate. This is really useful for loggers who are working on the landing, who are trying to buck smaller diameter logs to spec with 70 cc motor heads on 32 inch, skip tooth guide bars. They don’t have to be bending over, and they don’t have to physically push the bar into the wood Because the hook of the round chisel is so advantageous for pulling the chain down through the wood. Of course, a guy is sacrificing a lot of Motörhead power for this, but in certain applications, it’s like, who cares?
I remember years ago, when a guy came out from Philadelphia, who is still to this day one of the best overall tree men I personally know Tried out my saw with the square edge… He was like, this chain is lame. I was like, oh yeah, well then let’s go partner. My chain on the same size motorhead beat him through 24 inch wood with about fourSeconds to spare.
if anyone actually reads all of this, I will be totally amazed, but, this is also why a guys raker height is so terribly critical, for the application that he is desiring his chain for, is he crosscutting? Is he ripping? is he making bias cuts, i.e. diagonal cuts? Ie face cuts. I can think of many a round chain guy, who’s saw it was just cracking until he tries to make the diagonal cut on the face. Now he just stalls the motor, and cannot even feather the guide bar with no use of the dogs at all through the stupid diagonal.
in other words Frankie, I now know what pitch gauge and driver count you want, but I would also like to know what chisel sequence and raker height you want.
I will PM you for your address if I can scare up some five gauge, (for some reason our shop only uses 63 gauge) with the type of chisel sequence, and raker height which you might want.
Wow, this was super annoying to read…Sorry boys I will try to get on the laptop next time LOL.
True.
I just reached out on the Husky website to see if indeed 576s are still available.
Your link- $48 for a full wrap bar, 2 dogs, side plate, and hardware??? That seems ultra cheap.
