The Official Work Pictures Thread

I'm gonna give some thought into making my own. I can print it out on mylar at the office. Probably won't be as fancy showing a chain graphic, but a tick mark and count number for each drive link would be easy.
 
Can break a rivet on an old chain before throwing it away, stretch it out on workbench or a 2x4 and spray paint it, leaving behind a stencil.
 
I have the woodland pro chain measuring gizmo and it does help . Nice to be able to spin the various gauge (3/8lopro ; .325, 3/8 .05 and .404 chains) although I just use 3/8 lopro and 3/8 .050 ... That being said you could make a jig using a piece of lumber and a few nails - once measured and correct distance for that chain obtained (say a STIHL 20” 3/8 .05 with 72drivers) center to center just place the driver hole in the nail , unroll some chain until the other link is lined up with the other nail and mark that rivet with a marker (I like using paint pens) ... break the chain and spin it ... Lotsa ways to skin a cat
 
I like the idea of spraying an old chain. I'd do it on a 2x4 or something like that, cause I don't really use a work bench. I sit on the floor, and use a piece of oak as my "bench". I don't have bench gear. I use an anvil, punch, and ball peen hammer. I don't go through enough chain to justify expensive gear for it, and I like the portability of the simple tools.
 
That's exactly what I use. I file the rivet down first. That's essential on Stihl chain cause of the hardness, but is somewhat optional on Oregon chain.
 
I broke the tip off my punch trying to break a Stihl chain. I imagine pressing with mechanical advnatage is easier.
 
lxskllr said:
I need to make a gauge for spinning chain, or at least record the length. Every time, I count out each drive link; twice. If it doesn't match, I count it two more times. Not the most fun use of time, especially when the cat helps.
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There are bench top stickers, or take an old chain and break it open, lay out straight, and spray paint it on the bench top, leaving a reverse image, marks for different lengths..
 
Another vote for hardheads.

Frankie said:
These are the wedges I was using ; maybe a more robust style is available... the center one is the welded “super-wedge” ... come in handy when splitting large rounds that are knotty/stringy , sometimes even with the 2 metal wedges it just ain’t enuff - the “super-wedge” is undefeated in man vs round combat ! They do need to be hit with angle grinder though - you can see the mushrooming View attachment 97500
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If you are felling with the steel splitting wedges shown, you are making a big mistake. The taper is too steep, not even beginning to address the welded up monstrosity :). You run serious risk of breaking out your hinge from near straight lift power before you get tipping movement towards the face.

But your comment re splitting rounds in the post I quoted makes me think maybe I misunderstood that you are felling with these, so I may be out of line.

There are some threads one could find by search that talk about stacking wedges, and stacking plates with wedges for high lift situations. Also consider jacks, if you need that much lift. Search for those threads, too. Lots of good info here.

If you have trouble finding them and want to see what's there, give a shout. I'll help you look.
 
I primarily use the steel wedges for splitting rounds but have used them for extra lift on large diameter trees ... might be better off with aluminum though ... several companies , including STIHL make aluminum wedges , iirc they are wider at the business end and provide more lift than the plastic ones do
 
I read (from Sean I think) about cutting stacking plates out of plastic cutting boards, useful I’m sure, and I should do up a few on the bandsaw at work.
I’d like to get a couple double thick wedges if such a thing exists, and I tried searching a while ago, but can only find the plates and stackable wedges. I’d buy a plastic one piece wedge that is 1.5” or maybe 2” thick at the head.
 
Serious wood, Deva!!

Jonny, that's Stig's technique, and I still have a cutting board in my truck, yet to be cut up.

Another high-lift technique is a triple wedge stack. Bore through the face-cut at the height of the horizontal cut, straight through the middle of the hinge, wide enough for a wedge. Go to the back, and bore-in slightly below that, 3/8-5/8", and again below the second. Stack three new-ish wedges without them slipping around, set them, then alternatingly drive them. LOTTA lift, no spit out. Need a wide-enough tree to be able to cut the hinge a few inches.

Guys I worked with would beat over trees with single/ single stack of hard-heads. I'm a fan of spreading the force over some width of the back-cut, when needing a good bit of lift, especially with decayed trees. During the time until the tree comes light on the wedges, from tipping over, it will support the weight of the entire tree on more than just the hinge...when hollow and/or rotten, I believe this can Help avoid the rare failure of a terrible tree crumpling under its own concentrated weight.
Once we were cutting a 5'-ish cottonwood, my co-worker climbed into the stump afterward for a picture that I posted a long time ago. 4-6" rind, nothing else. I kept slamming in wedges as he cut from one corner to the other, spreading the force on the stump, until we pulled it over with the winch.
 
Jonny said:
Can break a rivet on an old chain before throwing it away, stretch it out on workbench or a 2x4 and spray paint it, leaving behind a stencil.
Click to expand...
It's better to take a new chain and count it before spraying, because the old one is already stretched by wear, so the new spinned on that will be off by at least one or two drive links.

Burnham said:
The taper is too steep, not even beginning to address the welded up monstrosity
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Yes, plus the monstrosity is almost no longer welded together and will soon fall apart.
 
Last edited:
Weld is cracking for sure ; it’s been in use for quite awhile ... could reweld it or better yet pin/bolt it together near top and bottom ... it’s a valuable tool for stubborn big wood that doesn’t want to split , there’s been instances where both single metal wedges were buried in knotted 30” rounds and I’d be up the creek without it
 
I think having them separate would be better, more mechanical advantage moving a "half" wedge at a time rather than a fat one. Plus the wedges can, if textured properly, reduce the friction, so instead of wood friction on both sides, each has lower metal friction on one side. Friction is also a major enemy of a hydraulic splitter. Only once has my 35 ton ever gotten stuck on the way down. I had to back it out and oil the wedge. In the past I have chainsawed a shallow cut in the chunk needing splitting, so I can easily place 2-3 metal wedges in along the cut, and hammer each individually. It makes splitting huge chunks by hand possible for a toothpick like me.
 
The wedges are run o the mill tractor supply $8 specials ; the reason they were welded together was to give a business - end of 3inches ... I feel it’s safer and easier to hit one big wedge rather than stack individual ones for my application
 
I always struggle stacking hard heads, even with some sawdust between them they still spit out too easily for my liking. I have migrated over to K&H as a result
 
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