Splicing A Triangular Thimble

lxskllr

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I just ordered some tenex to splice the triangular thimble I got. How tight should the splice be started? Should I pull it tight, and skim the top of the thimble groove for the first bury, or should I lead it a little bit, and kind of force it into place if you know what I mean?
 

WoodCutr

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same as an X ring, I do mine as tight as I can get them, although I can still pop them out if I work them out with a screwdriver
 

lxskllr

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Ok, so what do y'all think; maybe lead it by 0.5-1 picks at the thimble? IOW, pull the rope tight around the thimble, then select a bury just a bit below the groove to allow it to stretch in place.
 

WoodCutr

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Ok, so what do y'all think; maybe lead it by 0.5-1 picks at the thimble? IOW, pull the rope tight around the thimble, then select a bury just a bit below the groove to allow it to stretch in place.
as in go 1 pick tighter or looser?
I always jam mine in as tight as itll go
 

lxskllr

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One pick tighter. See where it hits the bottom of the groove and go ≤ 1 pick below that.
 

WoodCutr

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One pick tighter. See where it hits the bottom of the groove and go ≤ 1 pick below that.
now it makes sense to me (smooth brain over here)
seems like itll work, nice thing with tenex is you can re splice it in seconds if you decide its too loose
 

lxskllr

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Friction aloft for lowering by myself. What I'm hoping for is a catch and lower that doesn't require much from me. I want something that's somewhere between a freefall and a complete lock.
 

lxskllr

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Got it! I hope... Guess we'll see if I got it tight enough...

IMG_20230320_184542722_HDR.jpg

The video I was following said several times that the tail isn't important for strength, which I get, but it then says to lockstitch the tail. Is that necessary? Everything looks tight and together. I'm not sure what would happen to it. It's basically just a handle, right?
 

lxskllr

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Piggybacking on this thread cause it's somewhat related...

I got 50' of tenex and used ~20' on the thimble. What's next? The two items I'm really considering are a deadeye, or an ultra. I'm leaning towards the deadeye, and thinking of a porty mount. The remaining length would allow attaching the porty to just about anything I'd run into around here. An ultra would likely come up short. I'm open to other ideas. I already have a purchased loopie. I bought it mainly to see how it goes together. Forget what size I got. The loopies/whoopies don't seem as versatile as an ultra or deadeye though.
 

lxskllr

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Cool. That's two votes for the choice I kind of wanted anyway. The ones wesspur sells have an 18" eye. Before I looked it up, I was thinking 12" eye. Y'all think 18" is the way to go?
 

SeanKroll

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I like a dead eye for the port a wrap sling and an ultra for blocks. I just prefer the porty to be snug
Rather than splicing, would a bight through the porty, tied with a cow hitch, making a basket configuration, make a stronger sling?

It would have 2 legs, equally loaded.
 

lxskllr

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I have a piece of treemaster I snapped, and that was my intention for it. It's kind of a general purpose sling. I put a small eye in one end, mainly for the practice, but I've also used it. Sometimes I make it a loop, and though it's never been on a porty, I was gonna girth/timber hitch it up.
 

treebilly

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Not sure Sean. The bite should be the weak link in either set up. Not sure if the spliced dead eye would change that.
That did get me thinking about the 18” inch eye though. That might be the length needed to keep the splice out of the choke of the girth hitch and which ever hitch you use to attach to the tree.
 

Tree09

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Am i the only guy who loves loopies? The adjustable splice thing is about the coolest thing ever, and its the strongest setup you can do with that size rope.
 

CurSedVoyce

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I use loopies as well. I have several Ive spliced. Mostly for when I have a block I am leaving in a certain rigging point for a while. Or my pinto that follows me more..
I still find a dead eye faster with the larger blocks on larger stems. Loopies shine under 18" dia.
 
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