O.C.G.D. Thread, part two

What a good idea. Did you have to drill a hole for the pin?



Carl set up a gin pole sort of thing when he had a tree on a roof above an AC unit. I thought how good it would be to be able to make rigging point for some situations, such as a very long conifer limb over landscape plants. If the end of the limb can be secured, and the butt roped, it could mean being able to take that limb in one piece

I haven't needed it on the Boxer's grapple (yet), as the Gehl has enough lift for most situations. It was just a thought for your using the bags. I have a bag from Amazon...http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WAHFTA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage...that I have used a couple of times, but even with the Gehl, it's a challenge, as I'm usually loading it on top of brush/rakings, and so it's hard to "empty" the bag without it all falling off the sides of the trailer.



This is the BMG for my Boxer. It's the newer version. The opening is ~2-1/2" square, and there are two 3/8"(ish) holes on the sides that could be used to pin an extension "jib" in place. The tube is 18" deep, so a 4' bar would extend 30" if bottomed out in the grapple tube.

Carl lashed a tube (3" I think) to the vertical grapple mast for the job you mentioned. Since the Boxer does not have parallel lift, inserting a bar in the horizontal tube should work fine.
 
I'm envisioning a 90 degree elbow turning from horizontal to vertical as a rigging point. I can see that hole now, thought the house window.

A straight pole coming out would make a better pushing tool than the push-teeth/ spikes. More leverage.

Next trip the welder perhaps.

On my L-bracket for inserting a tow slug, I wonder why it has round tube instead of square. My holes egged out, giving a lot more slop when pushing the trailer. I hope to get square tube to replace the round, and shorter the existing square tube a bit, for less slop. The pintle ring/ hook already add a lot of slop. I'll also get the egged out hole on the grapple reinforced/ tightened up.
 
I've used the Bagster and tarps made into 'burritos', then grabbed in the grapple. I can slide it into my chip truck that way, or onto a trailer.
 
On the job you mentioned, (Carl's), he lashed the tube to the vertical mast, and I lashed a medium porty to the top of the tube, so that once the pieces were lifted clear of the building, we could lower the piece without having to lower the grapple/gin pole. And with two wraps, if tensioning was needed, he could lift a bit, then lower while I pulled slack. Once we had the tension we wanted, I'd hand the rope over to him (on the Gehl), to hold while I cut the piece loose. Then he could back up, rotate, or whatever was needed, then lower the piece while I guided it.
 
I'm envisioning a 90 degree elbow turning from horizontal to vertical as a rigging point. I can see that hole now, thought the house window.

A straight pole coming out would make a better pushing tool than the push-teeth/ spikes. More leverage.

Next trip the welder perhaps.

On my L-bracket for inserting a tow slug, I wonder why it has round tube instead of square. My holes egged out, giving a lot more slop when pushing the trailer. I hope to get square tube to replace the round, and shorter the existing square tube a bit, for less slop. The pintle ring/ hook already add a lot of slop. I'll also get the egged out hole on the grapple reinforced/ tightened up.

The Boxer, when rolled all the way back, has the upper tube pointing upward at 45* or better, I think. With 30" beyond that, you should have quite a bit of reach over what you have with the grapple.
 
Here's a pic of the job you mentioned. I don't have but a few snaps of it. Carl shot some video, but I can't remember how well it turned out as it started raining during the job.

 
The tube is 18" deep, so a 4' bar would extend 30" if bottomed out in the grapple tube.


How deep is deep enough on such an application? How much tube sleeved over tube maximizes strength, beyond which, and additional length is of no benefit? If I can use a 3' as effectively as a 4', I will.
 
I'm no expert on fabrication, etc, but I'd want at least a foot inside the tube for decent support. It's not like you'll be trying to lift at max capacity with it. I'd probably start with a 5' tube just to see how it works. And so long as you kept it rolled back to some degree, you wouldn't HAVE to pin it. If you don't pin it, you'll have to figure on losing 18" of length as it will bottom out in the grapple.

If you use 2-1/2" square tubing, you'll likely have to grind a bit so it will fit in. 2-1/4" or smaller and there will be a degree of slop, but for lifting, it should be negligible.
 
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I guess it was not video-worthy to film me crawling around up there patching the shingles once we got the tree down...:/:
 
Yep, monsta bags, they hold up well. I paid more to ship them than to buy them but we like em

Just to update this thought a bit. They said $135 plus $25 for the 'double strapped' which gives you heavier double straps stitched all the way around bag. Shipping is to be at cost, Fedex - somehow that got up to $88 for two bags.

Standard bags are 36 inches cubed. They can do custom sizes.
 
I like it!
Interesting the round knives.
Excellent crushing power for it's size it seems. 7" is nothing to laugh at ... That will get a lot of work done. Congrats!
 
Mick, we looked at that chipper at a trade show last year.
I think we'll get that when our current one bites the dust.
 
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