milling thread

Actually you can find what's left of circle mills for about scrap price . Smaller ones like 48" blade . Fact my buddy had one given to him he just hasn't figured out what to do with yet .I didn't offer any advice either .Been down that road too many times in my life time .Damned circle mills are some rough cutting old contraptions .With a good sawyer and a crew they can put out the lumber though .
 
Ha I'd love to expand the empire but it's a hard market to break into. Got some oregon ripping chain today, all my shop said they carry/order for ripping chain. A couple more boards in the pile.

Killed a beauty maple this morning that will be milled by some lucky bugger, but not me. It was a leave the large wood in 8' lengths or longer job.
 
Squish, I have more power for you. A local burl carver has a near brand new Stihl 090AV with a 36 or 42" Alaskan . Last fall he was asking $1500 for the lot. I think he still has it. The guy came down with a bad case of cancer and I haven't seen him for a while. I know he's still alive though.
 
Squish, I have more power for you. A local burl carver has a near brand new Stihl 090AV with a 36 or 42" Alaskan . Last fall he was asking $1500 for the lot. I think he still has it. The guy came down with a bad case of cancer and I haven't seen him for a while. I know he's still alive though.

Ohhhhhhh, that sounds nice. Any chance you think he'd sell it without the Alaskan? I'd almost kill for a 090, I think Willie must sleep with one eye open he has so many of them.
 
An 076 is another option. Almost equally as good as it's larger brother, but not quite the mystique, so somewhat less demand when they do show up. A very reliable and hard working saw.
 
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Not now that I have guard chickens in the shop
 

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Thanks for the info Willard.

I've been a milling fool still. On Tuesday I milled three pines on the job-site, brought the wood home as boards. It took awhile longer for certain but it would've been damn tough to cut it all up and pack it out, no machine access. I milled it on a fairly good slope, it was easier to mill with gravity pulling, but I found the mill 'chattered' more for whatever reason.
 
One little trick that I found out back in my "milling fool" days.

Tie a bungee cord to the mill and have someone keep it tight as you run the mill through the log.

Not having to push the mill makes it a lot easier to make a smooth cut and is way less fatiguing.

Using a bungee cord instead of a rope means that even a non chainsaw savvy person can do the pulling.
 
So who knows a thing or three about wood moisture?

1. What's the best way to measure it or is it nescessary?

2. Best way to cure wood, ie as a cant, or as lumber, edged or not?

3. What sort of time frames might I be looking at when drying in different forms, I know this would be affected by the particular climate one lives in but what have your experiences been?
 
Purchase a good moisture meter, not the kind that you just pass over the wood, but with longer prongs that you jab or pound in. Some meters have a pounder set up in the handle.

If you want to dry wood quickly, turn it into slabs or lumber that has enough thickness to cover warp after it dries and you want to use it. If you want the most stable material, initially dry it in cants or very thick slabs, then resaw after losing some moisture, say after a year or so, depends on thickness, and time of year when cut, etc. Edges or not, I don't think it makes much difference, as long as the bark is removed to not attract bugs. Wood looses almost all it's moisture through the end grain.

One year per inch of thickness is a good rule of thumb, but it varies somewhat with species and location. Figure not to look at it for the year per thickness, then take it from there.

Some woods are easy to dry, like Black Walnut, dries rather quickly and free of warp. Other woods move around more, say like Sycamore or a lot of the fruit woods. Something to take into consideration when deciding thickness to mill.
 
Like Jay says a hand held moisture meter with prongs but a good quality non prong are very good too.

I only have experience as a once ticketed lumber grader with SPF [Spruce, pine, fir]. CFPA grading rules state 19% moisture content is dry.
Softwood is dryer then most hardwoods to begin with so it drys alot quicker. Pile your lumber with "stickers" [ we used 1"x4"x 52"] or just lath between the layers and your good to go.
To help prevent the lumber ends from drying too quickly make sure the end stickers are directly to the end of the lumber [no overhang]
 
The non prong meters are pretty good, but the amount of error increase with thicker material, often there being more water deeper down where the scan doesn't reach. There are also short prong meters and meters where you can change the prongs to suit the thickness, which is what I use. You can also get prongs that you sink into the wood and attached to a wire from the drying stack and left in, then you can plug into your meter to see the amount of drying, rather than pulling out boards. Often what gets used in kilns, but not so practical if you have a lot of stacks going, due to cost.
 
What about iron tubbing instead of the aluminum one for the rails in the Granberg's design?

I suppose that the weight could be an issue, but the strength, sag, ...?
 
Ya know what for me I'm quite happy with my boards(for rails) so far. Lately though I've been making more logs than lumber. I don't know if I mentioned it anywhere but I made myself a skookum picnic table out of some of my pine boards. Pretty cool to have something that you've taken from a standing tree to a finished product.
 
I'm cutting six sappy pines down tomorrow. Unfortunately there will be no time to mill them on-site and so the big ones will more than likely have to be bucked to short to do much of anything useful with them just so the mini can load them out. I'm always watching to save a millable log though now whenever I can.

I had to look deep into myself when a homeowner asked me about two weeks or so ago if they should hire me to cut down their big ole black walnut. Damn! Through clenched teeth I told them their tree was fine and they should keep it. Oh my trigger finger was just a itching but it would've destroyed their yard. They had a big walnut in the front and a big ash in the back, not very common trees around here. I convinced them to keep them as without them it would just be another boiling hot house on a little lot with no shade or privacy. It was hard though I sat in my truck out front for a few minutes just staring at that black walnut, milling it in my mind.
 
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