milling thread
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HolmenTree
Banned
Ha who's the dickhead here
Deva take my advice.......don't use the rollers
Deva take my advice.......don't use the rollers
HolmenTree
Banned
Thanks Butch we all needed that
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
**** you, Willard
Time to go to work.
Time to go to work.
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MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
Damn, Jay.
HolmenTree
Banned
Butch this is all I have to say to Jay and I'm done with this..........I promise
Jay, I have held a lumber graders ticket for 13 yrs, 8-10 hrs a day 5 days a week manually grading lumber.
I probably cut more bf of lumber in my spare time with my Alaskan in 10 yrs then what you did in 40.
That's all I have to say
Jay, I have held a lumber graders ticket for 13 yrs, 8-10 hrs a day 5 days a week manually grading lumber.
I probably cut more bf of lumber in my spare time with my Alaskan in 10 yrs then what you did in 40.
That's all I have to say
Last edited by a moderator:
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
I apologize for inappropriate language. The forum here is great because so much discussion and sharing comes from honest personal experience. Usually that gets the respect it deserves, but this time it didn't, even after going into length to try to be clear on it, and it's been my business. Yeah, prideful! The man never said he had used the system in question himself to know, so an argument about something I guess he had heard. So it pissed me off, my lame excuse for using the objectionable terms.
I'll take the liberty of adding to it, and maybe someone else will chime in on this particular aspect of the subject. Deva can easily figure out what works for himself if he tries different systems, but I will just say that though I can easily remove the rollers off my mill and put on some aluminum box, it has never occurred to me that there is any inconvenience with the rollers carrying the mill carriage, as opposed to some strip of stationary metal dragging against the surface of a wide log, especially with the weight of two power heads attached on occasion. The first mill I used didn't have rollers. With the current one, any pieces of whatever that may get shot up on top gets easily removed as part of the way of doing things without it altering the cut or stopping, as a general rule. I haven't heard a law against stopping. The vibration usually has whatever bouncing around and easy to pick off if it isn't getting pushed along, and I would say that the convenience of rolling along relatively friction free, well makes up for some attention there. Even a square edge without rollers can ride up over something if there is an easing up on the pressure, and dust will get under it with the irregular surface from a chain cut. It's not like a planer cut. A few things or more can go wrong when chain milling, it isn't a perfect system. God forbid a piece of bark should get under a roller! :roll: If with rollers someone had a problem, it wouldn't be any sweat to put a stiff bristle brush out in front, maybe not a bad idea with any mill.
I run my mill with the sprocket covers off, a fairly small wood block with round metal washer inserts embedded around the holes that the nuts screw down on, holds on the bar. It allows the ripping shavings and dust to shoot out unencumbered by the limited space under the cover, instead of loading up. Maybe also helps with the operation running a tad cooler. Recommended In Malloff's book. Still, any amount of dust getting under the rollers hasn't been a concern. The downside is that more revolving chain is exposed underneath. "Probably" cutting more wood doesn't make another person an expert on what has worked well for me, that I thought possibly helpful enough to suggest to someone starting out, and seemingly what has also worked for a lot of other folks as well. Anyway, after some footage or thousands of them, it is a mute point who has cut more. I know Bob Sperber pretty well, the guy that designed and produced those mills with rollers. He'd send me some choice pieces of wood from time to time that he milled in the east himself. There was some talk about a wider mill with additional rollers for more stability, but I don't know if he ever produced it beyond a prototype. At one point he was working on a pneumatic mill of some sort. These days he seems to be into plastics.
If the mill is narrow I don't see rollers as being so helpful, but something like a 3 foot wide mill using it yourself, the rollers are a good idea in my opinion. Two people makes life easier for sure, with a helper handle or an additional engine. For pulling off wide thick planks, working with a buddy is good indeed.
I'll take the liberty of adding to it, and maybe someone else will chime in on this particular aspect of the subject. Deva can easily figure out what works for himself if he tries different systems, but I will just say that though I can easily remove the rollers off my mill and put on some aluminum box, it has never occurred to me that there is any inconvenience with the rollers carrying the mill carriage, as opposed to some strip of stationary metal dragging against the surface of a wide log, especially with the weight of two power heads attached on occasion. The first mill I used didn't have rollers. With the current one, any pieces of whatever that may get shot up on top gets easily removed as part of the way of doing things without it altering the cut or stopping, as a general rule. I haven't heard a law against stopping. The vibration usually has whatever bouncing around and easy to pick off if it isn't getting pushed along, and I would say that the convenience of rolling along relatively friction free, well makes up for some attention there. Even a square edge without rollers can ride up over something if there is an easing up on the pressure, and dust will get under it with the irregular surface from a chain cut. It's not like a planer cut. A few things or more can go wrong when chain milling, it isn't a perfect system. God forbid a piece of bark should get under a roller! :roll: If with rollers someone had a problem, it wouldn't be any sweat to put a stiff bristle brush out in front, maybe not a bad idea with any mill.
I run my mill with the sprocket covers off, a fairly small wood block with round metal washer inserts embedded around the holes that the nuts screw down on, holds on the bar. It allows the ripping shavings and dust to shoot out unencumbered by the limited space under the cover, instead of loading up. Maybe also helps with the operation running a tad cooler. Recommended In Malloff's book. Still, any amount of dust getting under the rollers hasn't been a concern. The downside is that more revolving chain is exposed underneath. "Probably" cutting more wood doesn't make another person an expert on what has worked well for me, that I thought possibly helpful enough to suggest to someone starting out, and seemingly what has also worked for a lot of other folks as well. Anyway, after some footage or thousands of them, it is a mute point who has cut more. I know Bob Sperber pretty well, the guy that designed and produced those mills with rollers. He'd send me some choice pieces of wood from time to time that he milled in the east himself. There was some talk about a wider mill with additional rollers for more stability, but I don't know if he ever produced it beyond a prototype. At one point he was working on a pneumatic mill of some sort. These days he seems to be into plastics.
If the mill is narrow I don't see rollers as being so helpful, but something like a 3 foot wide mill using it yourself, the rollers are a good idea in my opinion. Two people makes life easier for sure, with a helper handle or an additional engine. For pulling off wide thick planks, working with a buddy is good indeed.
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
All I can say is chainsaw milling is a lot of work .I tried it a little and formed that opinion some time back .
With any kind of luck perhaps I can get my partly finished bandsaw mill completed this summer .Too many things have hampered it's completion and the logs are stacking up .It would be a damned shame to have to cut them all into firewood at this point .
With any kind of luck perhaps I can get my partly finished bandsaw mill completed this summer .Too many things have hampered it's completion and the logs are stacking up .It would be a damned shame to have to cut them all into firewood at this point .
rskybiz
TreeHouser
+1 on all that Al.
Bodean
Cali dreamer
Jay, the rollers are not on the bottom of the jig against the milled slab,
but rather on the far side of the jig near the saw handle to allow the lap over of the jig to roll along the bracing rail that runs down the log.
I hope that makes sense.
I'll try to get pictures at some point.
but rather on the far side of the jig near the saw handle to allow the lap over of the jig to roll along the bracing rail that runs down the log.
I hope that makes sense.
I'll try to get pictures at some point.
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
I get what you mean, Deva. Some mills have rollers on the sides and some will roll the entire carriage over the top of the log, or ones like the Sperber mill have both. Did you get some ripping chain along with the mill?
Bodean
Cali dreamer
No, I will get some from work when I go back.
Reddog
TreeHouser
If any one else has an interest, I see Bailey's has the Logosol Timberjig mill on sale til 3/28.
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemde...m_term=Banner&utm_campaign=mar7_2013_mg_email
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemde...m_term=Banner&utm_campaign=mar7_2013_mg_email
Bodean
Cali dreamer
That's the one, then you buy two and an LG extension and you can cut a lot bigger.
Terrible, I got that same flyer, though it said 139.99
I was talking to the customer rep and said she had it for 89.99....and that the sale was to last 1 more day, lol. Yeah right.
I laughed at her and bought one anyway.
I'm such a valuable customer then. Anyway, I was happy.
Terrible, I got that same flyer, though it said 139.99
I was talking to the customer rep and said she had it for 89.99....and that the sale was to last 1 more day, lol. Yeah right.
I laughed at her and bought one anyway.
I'm such a valuable customer then. Anyway, I was happy.
Ax-Man
Don't make me chop you
I'll second that also, it is alot work and screwing around trying to mill lumber with chainsaw for what results it yields and it is a little on expensive side, but is is fun to do.
Is this attachment just for getting boards from a cant because it looks similar to that mini mill that can be used with a chainsaw that has a 20 inch bar or is this something totally different.
Is this attachment just for getting boards from a cant because it looks similar to that mini mill that can be used with a chainsaw that has a 20 inch bar or is this something totally different.
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
All I've ever used was a Granberg mini mill .I got some nice 4 by 12 by 8 foot white oak planks but it was a hell of a job getting them .That thing might work okay if a person had to chainsaw rip a log to get it down to size for a bandsaw or something .
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
Saw that logosol in my email today and gave Rob a heads up. He is probably going to spring for it at that price.
Dave Shepard
Square peg, round world.
I did a little milling this week too. 9 30' timbers for another timber framer. First time setting the extension up at my place. Went well, but I'm glad I finished before the frost went out.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
Sigh.... thing of beauty
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
Nice!
Cobleskill
Treehouser
I showed a hay customer that was interested in the old barn how the top plate (10x10) was a 60 foot hewed white oak beam. He was impressed, as I was the first time I realized it.
Dave Shepard
Square peg, round world.
Wow! That is impressive.
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
I've seen 60 foot oak beams in old dairy barns .Now that took a hellish big oak to get those beams .You'd have a tough time finding those giants any more .
Cobleskill
Treehouser
A lot of wood to take off the but end. You can see some round on the small end.
