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Kyles redneck builds/ ideas

Tree09

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I'm hoping it won't take too long, if that's the case I'll have to rig up something else like an actual hydraulic winch off the motor. I'm not trying to dump a bunch of money in this, something hopefully pretty quick using stuff i have here. On bigger jobs I'll likely have my winch trailer there so I'll have more power and speed if I'm planning on winching a bunch of stuff. I guess i could go see how many rpms the winch does with the drill in reverse and then measure the circumference of the drum, that should give me a rough idea of feet per min and see if this is even feasible. Basically my problem is right now I'll run my chipper and truck for every job, and then if i have logs to get that were too big to just toss in on top I'll go grab my trailer. I carry the arbor trolley and sometimes the log arch on the chipper, but something mechanical to help or do the grunt work is now needed. Baby steps lol
 

Bart

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Hey Kyle, this goes back a ways, but Reg got a buddy to fab a plate on a post (or on the chipper frame?) with a swivel bolt, then a second pivoting mount plate with a bollard winch I'm pretty sure gas, maybe two speed?, and it would drag stuff to the chipper from a point above the infeed, suggesting it might lift a bit at the end. Simple fab but he bought a winch. Pivot was to orient pull for bollard winch feed.

Using a drill for winching - think about them poor little weight optimized gears churning away vs the size of gears in a typical winch. Unless you keep drill loads low which equals slow. 2 cents for whatever it is worth :)
 

Marc-Antoine

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Using a drill for winching - think about them poor little weight optimized gears churning away vs the size of gears in a typical winch. Unless you keep drill loads low which equals slow. 2 cents for whatever it is worth :)
That wouldn't be as bad as it seems. The drill doesn't pull, the winch does. The drill stays out of the front line MA and "all" it has to do is to give a bit of torque with plenty of rpm. I guess that if the tiny gears become overloaded, the motor itself may have something to say first.
 

Tree09

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Yeah i had seen his winch mount vid. I'm not talking about a wimpy drill, I'm talking about a hole hawg right angle type, the kind that will damn break your arm if it gets bound up. They are designed for drilling large diameter holes all day everyday for construction, so the duty cycle isn't an issue. The winch i have is 6:1 on the low side and has a circumference of a foot, so using the drill in the most powerful slow setting should give a line speed of around 60 feet a min, which is more than fast enough for my purposes. The line pull is around 1k, so that will be fine too. Basically it's about the same winch as the one they use for a grcs, but mine isn't self tailing.

I have an idea i think will work for self tailing, but if it doesn't work i could always just lock the trigger on the drill and tail the rope like the portable winch thing. My idea is to use a wheelbarrow wheel, which will push the wraps against the capstan, which then increases friction to the point where the rope is tailed. A lever will be what engages/disengages the wheel. I think it will be super simple and work, but if not it's not a deal breaker.
 

ruel

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Honestly Kyle, that's a big hell no from me. Having sucked a throw line across my neck into a chipper with feed Wheels, don't f around with trying to winch while the c&d is running.

Winch many branch, hide rope, chip, repeat

Just my $.02
 

Tree09

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And i could do that too. I just thought with a swinging door that is locking out the chute completely and the only way to operate the chipper is to lockout and secure the rope. A drum winch rather than a capstan would be better, but i have a capstan for it for now. I will be operating the winch far past the feed chute, so far so that i could honestly build a plywood room around me to contain all rope. A hydraulic chipper isn't any safer as regards to rope in it, the only thing that makes osha say its safe with them is the feedwheels could be locked out. Doesn't mean they are always, plenty of people still winch or pull line while chipping. This thing would be performing the exact same function as the freewheel lockout, with the exception of locking out the unwanted function by simply using the other function. Or i could just winch a bunch for safety.

How did that happen btw? I'm very very very cautious with having anything that could be cordage in the work area. Just today i cut down several arbor vitae that were way overgrown, and took the time to pull away all the grapevines from the limbs. I'll often do drags farther than they should be to eliminate rope being even an issue. I'm also terrified of this scenario, so please share what happened.
 
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Tree09

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Yes, that's what I'm trying to say. The capstan part would be behind the chipper tray area
 

ruel

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Getting ahead of myself setting pull lines in trees I thought were well out of the way. Dragged a branch longer Than I was expecting, hooked the throwline and sent It through the chipper. 180 feet of throwline across my neck In maybe 2 seconds.

A series of avoidable circumstances for sure but I'm Really cautious about any time saving things that increase rope- chipper Exposure.
 

Bart

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Pantherba, that's the one. A dose of Reg can straighten out your day sometimes. Two plates, mount bar, two speeds via drums.

Marc, when I built my Arbscender I diddled around inside the gearbox on the 3 speed Dewalt. Tiny little gears and they make more sound under load. I tried to get a Hole Hawg gear drive but it didn't work out. I have an extra, bigger toothed gear reduction at my sheave but the drill will overload kick out if I accidentally bump into 2nd gear. One day I thought the Arbscender kaffed out because it gave these wimpy little pushes and would quit. Upon inspection a twig/nub had shifted gears on me. Relief! This Dewalt drill is a wrist breaker in low speed setting. Snapped a 1/2" bit on me one time. Gear teeth have cycles to failure, too.
 
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