Kyles redneck builds/ ideas

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  • #126
Xx10 for just about everything, likely 7010 or 8010 because i mainly used 3/16 rods. Big rods is faster, so i try to use the biggest rod possible at all times, and cellulose is faster and will dig through paint and rust better. The flat welds on the bottom i used some 5/32 7028, which really dumps the steel in there. Since i like using free materials as much as possible, everything I'm welding has paint and rust on it, and there's a bunch of position welds too, I'm going to be stick welding almost exclusively. The 2 uprights that the base of the poles are sprung out a bit, and that's because I'm not going to rebuild the entire trailer. It won't affect operation at all.

Bob, i definitely need to fab up a spreader bar, and I'm also thinking of buying/ building some crane forks as well. Since this thing will pick roughly twice what my backhoe will I'm thinking forks would be super handy. I'm even entertaining the idea of making a clamshell for it, or maybe one with silage fork tines so i could pick up stump grindings and chips. I'm also going to need to make a plate clamp and tongs, beam clamp, pelican hooks, and all the other material handling tools needed once you get a crane you need. If you got any cool ways you've built any of that in the past i would love some input.

For handling logs i have log tongs, but was wondering about the kind that grab the ends which be easier to do in a pile. Since all logs will be about the same length i could splice them up permanently, but i need to figure out how to do the end hooks. I'm thinking that would probably be the best way to load and unload. Thoughts or pictures anyone?
 
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  • #128
It will be elevated, the base connection for the gin poles is about 5 feet from the floor of the trailer. I added the lower attachment too because it will be handy if I'm ever using a 2 part line with the same guylines (8k capacity, crane use only not loading/unloading). The gin poles will function as a simple high point rigging spot, and the gin pole tripod in the front of the trailer will act as the other high rigging point, so I'll be able to load and unload using drifting. Think of it more like 2 trees, one with a grcs and 1 with a portawrap, and you are moving logs back and forth. The two gin poles will basically be guyed in place, and will not move in use. I will be able to fold the rear ones up or down using the winch, so there will be no manual setup other than cleating off the guylines.

If you look on YouTube for some reason there's guys building a gin pole looking structure on the back of trailers, and then attaching a winch to them and using a strap to hook up to the log. While something like that is ok for simply dragging logs on, that's not what I'm wanting at all. I'm wanting something that will pick up a load and place it either in or out of the trailer completely in the air, under control. I could have also gotten a hoist and trolley on an i beam, but this will have far greater capacity, height, and weigh dramatically less. This will pick pretty substantial loads (about the same as a full size skid steer), and be able to place them with the control of a crane.
 
I'm hoping for a capacity of around 5k pounds, lift 1k with the crane at about 6 feet, to load 10 foot logs at a time or so. I can use the harbor freight crane i got to start, then build a better one later if needed. Eventually a hydraulic loader arm might be the way to go.
That's a nice set up but why not just get a mini with grapple which would be more versatile. get more things done and save your back a ton of wear and tear?
 
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  • #130
Well then i would also need a dump trailer which is another 7k, and a mini is gonna run 20k, and then a grapple, so I'm close to 1/30 of the price. With this all front yard trees will be cake, and if i can back this up to a fence i can winch and load backyard trees too. What does your full size skid lift, and at what radius? What did it cost? This thing will likely lift far more, and will require almost zero maintenence. All lifting machinery is rated by capacity at a set distance , which is a torque measurement. This will lift 4k pounds at 6 feet from the tailgate, or 4 ton meters. That's getting into small knuckleboom limits, and that's for loading and unloading. With using it simply as a crane not as a loader, it will pick twice that.

I would love to have a mini, or a wheel loader, or an actual crane. But this is something i can build that will do close to the same thing, and do more when you consider using it to fabricate stuff. I cut trees part time, but i need a loader. This will do double duty as a small mobile crane for me as well, which a mini could never do. I would love some fancy hydraulic machines, but i honestly think i can build tools based off of winches and achieve the same end result.
 
Very nice!
Are the pipe sections at the top of the A-frames just bollards?
Or might you mount the gin poles up there for some uses?

Edit: Oh!!, well, I just read the page I had missed and see that the main mounts are the upper ones.
 
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  • #132
Yup, the lower ones are gonna just be used for heavy picks, not for loading purposes. It'll make a lot more sense when i get the rest of the structure together, and maybe, just maybe, make a video of the thing in action :lol:
 
Make a video???!!! Please do! Man, you just made me remember I actually built something like you are making now...made mine from bamboo. Burnham, way back, about 9 years ago, left on a trip and his normally settling presence was being missed at the House. All kinds of crazy topics were getting bandied about, folks were restless, listless and just ornery...the kids were home alone without any grownups around. That led to this video...the first part was because I liked the song, I guess...and it has bamboo in it...and I don't really know why. When you get past the spear throwing you can see my gin pole rig.

 
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  • #136
I'm pretty sure you posted that in my redneck derricks and cranes thread, that's so awesome! You've experienced first hand the engineering issues with getting them to self load. Another trick I've come across is they will add chains from the back to the gin poles, which will stop them just after they past center. Then they add a wire clamp on the cable, winch up until the clamp jams in the block, which folds the poles back until it goes over center, is caught by the chains, and then lowered on the bed.
 
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Make a video???!!! Please do! Man, you just made me remember I actually built something like you are making now...made mine from bamboo. Burnham, way back, about 9 years ago, left on a trip and his normally settling presence was being missed at the House. All kinds of crazy topics were getting bandied about, folks were restless, listless and just ornery...the kids were home alone without any grownups around. That led to this video...the first part was because I liked the song, I guess...and it has bamboo in it...and I don't really know why. When you get past the spear throwing you can see my gin pole rig.


Jeez, Gary...I never knew. Being seen as the adult in the room is sorta scary :).
 
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  • #139
So I've been busy and haven't had a chance to do anything else on my trailer, but i have had time to think about stuff. I think I've got most of the trailer figured out, but I'm still left with the problem of backyard and harder to access material, and the fact that I'm still going to be left with feeding the brush by hand into a chipper. I've taken all suggestions to heart, and have been wondering why people always seem to choose the same things to accomplish this, namely minis then articulated loaders/ full size skids. Neither were developed for moving logs, the skids were designed to clean out turkey stalls and the articulated loaders for handing gravel. They have been adapted over the years to do almost everything, but i think the reason they are almost universally loved for tree work is the fact that they are maneuverable enough to use almost anywhere and can feed a chipper with long material, saving processing time. They also move and load logs, but honestly there are better machines to do either task, but it's very handy that it's a single machine that does everything. So although my cart with cable loader thing would be badass, I'm not sure it would be the best thing to really up production.

I'm sold on the idea of a forwarder type being likely absolutely ideal for a low impact "forwarding" tool but I'm starting to think that is likely only true if you have a full hydraulic loader on it so you can feed the chipper as well. Moving logs only, i think the ideal structure is a log arch until you get so big you can just move whole trees like a skidder, full size forwarder, etc. It uses the least material, lifts straight up, is super turf friendly, and balances everything on tires right by the balance point, and in doing so puts all the weight on those tires not the pulling implement. So for logs a log arch is likely best, but it can't feed a chipper.

A skid or wheel loader by itself isn't that good at moving tree debris, but when you add a grapple everything changes. The fork style grapples are the most efficient for carrying logs, but using mini skids didn't really take off until the dangle grapples came about, most notably the bmg. They were so ideal for handling brush that most people were recommending to buy the grapple before you even bought a mini, so you could use it on rentals until you were able to get financed for a mini. It's shortcomings of carrying logs were pretty much ignored because the brush was now effortless, and all it took was a few more cuts and the mini could do logs too, even loading them.

Carrying stuff longways is ideal for space, so any machine should ideally utilize that. Skidders, forwarders, log trucks, hell even cable logging all carry stuff longways. Loading is best achieved with a crane or excavator arm type loader, but lacking that a sideways forklift works very well too. Minis, skids, and wheel loaders all use a hydraulic loader arms, which while great for some applications like grading honestly suck for loading weight. Fork trucks rely on a mast setup, which is a much stronger and better design, as evidenced by the much higher lift capacity. The minis and the like are basically dangling the load in front, so the machine is always on its toes. This works, but their capacity is based exclusively on their weight and length, aka their torque.

So my idea is this, my 3 wheel cart idea is on the right path. The bell loaders, while also being a tip over style loader just like a skid steer, are highly maneuverable and are as turf friendly as a zero turn mower. But rather than doing a cart, I'm now thinking a self propelled log arch thing, with a loader arm reaching ahead of the tires giving clearance like a mini would. The drive wheels need to be like a bell loader or skid, where they steer by the forward/ reverse action. I'm thinking this is needed to feed a chipper. The arch would be much higher than normal, 6 or 7 feet high, which would give a sweet lead to lift the boom from, rather than having a heavy complicated loader arm setup. It would be powered by a winch, tension is far better than a cantilever loader arm, and is the most power per weight design there is. I could also use it for winch work too. The loader boom would stick a few feet past the wheels, and would be super simple, likely a shearleg thing just like the trailer with a heel. A dangle grapple would be at the end of it, and combined with the heel, would be able to pick up brush or logs, drop it on the chipper tray, and feed the chipper just like a mini skid would do.

This is all fine and dandy, it's basically a redneck version of a mini at this point, longer and taller but lighter. But the log arch design for the main part of it gives me something a mini can't do, lift a bunch more weight and skid it out with a turf friendly tire setup. So i can set the grapple on the end of the loader swing arm thing for handling brush and feeding the chipper, but when i get in the big wood i can simply move the grapple in between the tires and act like a giant self propelled log arch. For loading logs I'll have my loader on the trailer (and grapple truck if i ever get my cdl), but i can also turn the log sideways just like a mini or other loader, but will have the better structural lifting arrangement like a fork truck because it's a couple sets of shearlegs, no bending forces at all. The machine still acts as a cantilever as far the the lifting goes when loading or using the father out grapple attachment spot, but all the structural members are just like a lattice boom, in simple tension or compression. When using it like a log arch the limiting factor would become the tires and axle stubs, because the cog of the log would be inside the tires, which are in the most stable possible 3 point setup.

Thoughts anyone who has read this far? While this log arch thing would suck for grading (too high cog, no down pressure, and relying on weight distribution for traction), that's not my goal, i need to process tree debris and feed a chipper. I'm just now thinking through this basic geometry, obviously haven't ironed out the details of everything. I could do the grapple and the lift function both with winches if i wanted, which would also allow me to set this up as a baby mobile yarder (seeing a pattern yet? :lol:). Here's a vid of a super old log loader, and how it's using a heel to manipulate logs, just like a bmg does. It is ridgid in this example, but i could fab up a simple cable style grapple like the picture. This would allow it to be a knockaround type like a bmg, run by a winch, and be pretty much bulletproof. I could do a hydraulic grapple too, but I'm really wanting a winch for the lifting function for the weight and power. Thanks for the feedback, and enjoy my continued excellence in artwork!

Screenshot_20210506-214323_Samsung Notes.jpg



t-mar-yarding-grapple.jpg
 
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So I've been busy and haven't had a chance to do anything else on my trailer, but i have had time to think about stuff. I think I've got most of the trailer figured out, but I'm still left with the problem of backyard and harder to access material, and the fact that I'm still going to be left with feeding the brush by hand into a chipper. I've taken all suggestions to heart, and have been wondering why people always seem to choose the same things to accomplish this, namely minis then articulated loaders/ full size skids. Neither were developed for moving logs, the skids were designed to clean out turkey stalls and the articulated loaders for handing gravel. They have been adapted over the years to do almost everything, but i think the reason they are almost universally loved for tree work is the fact that they are maneuverable enough to use almost anywhere and can feed a chipper with long material, saving processing time. They also move and load logs, but honestly there are better machines to do either task, but it's very handy that it's a single machine that does everything. So although my cart with cable loader thing would be badass, I'm not sure it would be the best thing to really up production.

I'm sold on the idea of a forwarder type being likely absolutely ideal for a low impact "forwarding" tool but I'm starting to think that is likely only true if you have a full hydraulic loader on it so you can feed the chipper as well. Moving logs only, i think the ideal structure is a log arch until you get so big you can just move whole trees like a skidder, full size forwarder, etc. It uses the least material, lifts straight up, is super turf friendly, and balances everything on tires right by the balance point, and in doing so puts all the weight on those tires not the pulling implement. So for logs a log arch is likely best, but it can't feed a chipper.

A skid or wheel loader by itself isn't that good at moving tree debris, but when you add a grapple everything changes. The fork style grapples are the most efficient for carrying logs, but using mini skids didn't really take off until the dangle grapples came about, most notably the bmg. They were so ideal for handling brush that most people were recommending to buy the grapple before you even bought a mini, so you could use it on rentals until you were able to get financed for a mini. It's shortcomings of carrying logs were pretty much ignored because the brush was now effortless, and all it took was a few more cuts and the mini could do logs too, even loading them.

Carrying stuff longways is ideal for space, so any machine should ideally utilize that. Skidders, forwarders, log trucks, hell even cable logging all carry stuff longways. Loading is best achieved with a crane or excavator arm type loader, but lacking that a sideways forklift works very well too. Minis, skids, and wheel loaders all use a hydraulic loader arms, which while great for some applications like grading honestly suck for loading weight. Fork trucks rely on a mast setup, which is a much stronger and better design, as evidenced by the much higher lift capacity. The minis and the like are basically dangling the load in front, so the machine is always on its toes. This works, but their capacity is based exclusively on their weight and length, aka their torque.

So my idea is this, my 3 wheel cart idea is on the right path. The bell loaders, while also being a tip over style loader just like a skid steer, are highly maneuverable and are as turf friendly as a zero turn mower. But rather than doing a cart, I'm now thinking a self propelled log arch thing, with a loader arm reaching ahead of the tires giving clearance like a mini would. The drive wheels need to be like a bell loader or skid, where they steer by the forward/ reverse action. I'm thinking this is needed to feed a chipper. The arch would be much higher than normal, 6 or 7 feet high, which would give a sweet lead to lift the boom from, rather than having a heavy complicated loader arm setup. It would be powered by a winch, tension is far better than a cantilever loader arm, and is the most power per weight design there is. I could also use it for winch work too. The loader boom would stick a few feet past the wheels, and would be super simple, likely a shearleg thing just like the trailer with a heel. A dangle grapple would be at the end of it, and combined with the heel, would be able to pick up brush or logs, drop it on the chipper tray, and feed the chipper just like a mini skid would do.

This is all fine and dandy, it's basically a redneck version of a mini at this point, longer and taller but lighter. But the log arch design for the main part of it gives me something a mini can't do, lift a bunch more weight and skid it out with a turf friendly tire setup. So i can set the grapple on the end of the loader swing arm thing for handling brush and feeding the chipper, but when i get in the big wood i can simply move the grapple in between the tires and act like a giant self propelled log arch. For loading logs I'll have my loader on the trailer (and grapple truck if i ever get my cdl), but i can also turn the log sideways just like a mini or other loader, but will have the better structural lifting arrangement like a fork truck because it's a couple sets of shearlegs, no bending forces at all. The machine still acts as a cantilever as far the the lifting goes when loading or using the father out grapple attachment spot, but all the structural members are just like a lattice boom, in simple tension or compression. When using it like a log arch the limiting factor would become the tires and axle stubs, because the cog of the log would be inside the tires, which are in the most stable possible 3 point setup.

Thoughts anyone who has read this far? While this log arch thing would suck for grading (too high cog, no down pressure, and relying on weight distribution for traction), that's not my goal, i need to process tree debris and feed a chipper. I'm just now thinking through this basic geometry, obviously haven't ironed out the details of everything. I could do the grapple and the lift function both with winches if i wanted, which would also allow me to set this up as a baby mobile yarder (seeing a pattern yet? :lol:). Here's a vid of a super old log loader, and how it's using a heel to manipulate logs, just like a bmg does. It is ridgid in this example, but i could fab up a simple cable style grapple like the picture. This would allow it to be a knockaround type like a bmg, run by a winch, and be pretty much bulletproof. I could do a hydraulic grapple too, but I'm really wanting a winch for the lifting function for the weight and power. Thanks for the feedback, and enjoy my continued excellence in artwork!

View attachment 110814



View attachment 110813

That looked like Jerry B. sitting on that stump! Cool video....awesome leverage at work.
 
I got the "light but strong" advantage of cable/mast setup. But the downside I see is that's bulky and likely to catch/grab the cables every so often in the limbs. That's a concern when working with and between the trees. Sorting the limbs from a rat nest can lead easily to popping the cables out of their sheaves. Maybe I see it wrong, but I'd prefer the compactness of hydraulic.
 
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  • #143
I'll examine the idea more as i get there, I'm hoping to work on the trailer this weekend some and maybe get that close to finished. I'll be posting pics if i get to work on it, so that will be cool to have that done if possible.
 
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  • #146
I'll have to check that out, and honestly what I'm thinking of building would be a fairly straightforward fabrication. I did see they did an open source concrete lathe, which is how they rapidly set up shops to machine parts for ww1 which is amazingly cool. Iron castings needed heat treatment or what they called seasoning to be stable enough to build machine bases, but with a few parts and a jig they could cast them in concrete which didn't require any of that. Like most really cool things developed during wartime they were scrapped and pretty much completely forgotten about, much like ferrocement ships, gasification for engines, etc.
 
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  • #147
Alright since i pretty much have full on add even when i take some time i can't stop thinking about stuff. I'm very excited to finish up my log trailer, I've set aside some time coming up for working on it so i can use it on some upcoming jobs. I've also been thinking of what slows me down on my existing jobs and how to improve. Ever since i got my chipper tuned up I'm amazed at how large of pieces it will now eat. I'm still loving the arbor trolley, but the ability to let the chipper eat as big of pieces as possible without cutting it small enough to fit nicely would speed me up greatly. Without a mini the best option i think would be a winch, I've never used one but everything i read about chipper winches makes them sound like they are pretty close to amazing.

Obviously with a chuck and duck they really aren't set up to add a nice one (no hydraulics) and the fact that there is no safety device to block the rope has until now made me never really consider it. To really be handy i would ideally winch a whole lead 5 inches on down in, cut it a few times if needed, and shove the pieces in. I finally realized if i welded a simple plate that blocks the feed chute on a couple hinges up top, that would safely block the chute until the hook clipped it to hold it up, acting as a safety. So I'm thinking of welding an attachment for my capstan winch (homemade grcs thing), with a self tailer thing I've been thinking on, and a garbage can i use for rakings to catch the tail so i would have an easy winch setup. I have a corded heavy right angle drill i use with it, and if it works right i will likely break down and get the makita double battery monster one so i won't need a cord. That would also give me more batteries for my new battery chainsaws.

Any thoughts? Think that would be worth it and be fast enough? I got some stuff to cut tomorrow so i might set it up on a tree to see if I'm happy with the speeds and stuff like that. I've been dragging many by hand lately rather than cutting it to fit the trolley so the line pull shouldn't be too bad (not like whole sections like you would with an 18 inch monster or something), but having something get things right to the chipper would be eliminating 90 percent of the grunt work. And I'm thinking a 600 pound limb would only need maybe 200 pounds to drag it, so i might even be able to use the forward gear. Worth messing with?
 
My chipper has a winch but it hardly ever gets used with the mini being around. On jobs without the mini the winch is REAL handy and a labor saver. I like your idea of the chute flap as a safety.
 
I'm more of a watcher than a figure-it-outer...but it sounds to me like you have some good solutions to issues. I like that the hook you don't want in the feed chute will be what holds the plate that blocks the chute...sounds like a fail-safe solution. And a garbage can to catch the rope tail is great...gravity auto-flaking. Right angle drill to run the capstan gizmo...cool.
 
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  • #150
That's the thing, i have no mini right now but i need to do less physical grunt work :lol: I've used the drill with it many times, but usually only for tree limb lifting type setups. I used to use it on occasion as a redneck ascent winch off a rigging line as you simply tailed your climbline to protect your fall. But I've never used it to drag stuff so I'm curious how it would work. I'm sure it's far slower than a mini, but it would use existing tools i already have, always be right there ready to go, and be very simple to fab i think. Basically if it could drag a limb to the chipper in a couple minutes that would be fine, because you could simply go set a choker, walk back maybe setting a redirect half block, engage and lock the trigger, and then relax and get a drink while the tools do all the work of moving the weight. I think that would be far faster than i could do by hand, because i would need to make 3 to 5 trips depending on the size and since my illness i just can't go like i used to. Couple quick cuts all in a small area (and likely hard surface) to speed up cleanup of chips and twigs, and just standing there watching the brush just float in the truck.

The swing gate will act like a manual foolproof lockout, just like the locked feed wheels do on a hydraulic machine. With this you would just clip a ring and then cleat it on a jam cleat (only takes a single wrap with no knots) or something like that. Otherwise spooling up the chipper and then down, waiting on the knives to stop spinning isn't a realistic way to chip every branch. By simply making sure the rope is complety in the can and the door is not bypassed up with a bungee or something you would have to go get a different rope and feed that in there to be able to mess that up.
 
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