Jameson and Marvin?

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Widow Shooter

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Are these pruning heads and poles compatible?

Can you for instance put a Marvin quick release head on Jameson poles? I'm assuming the ferrules are the same:?
 
They are made approximately the same size but they are not always interchangeable. Sometimes they will and sometimes they won't. Sometimes you can get them connected and then can't separate them because they are jammed. I suggest picking one brand or the other and sticking with it if possible.

You can adapt various brand tools to either brand of pole by using the appropriate ferrule adapter. I've used the Marvin polesaw head for years with the Jameson poles. I prefer the wooden adapter since I can shave it to fit tightly. Some of the aluminum ones are stuck together with rivets and they can wobble loose after a short period.
 
Maybe I got lucky but all of my poles and heads interchange without problems. I like the core filled Jameson poles.
 
I don't buy the quick lockers, just buy long poles and as the end gets messed up, it gets trimmed down. I end up with a few differnt lengths and none of the slop
 
I own both. Go Jameson on the poles. Not only do the ferrules sometimes jam when mixed the Marvin ferrules are a softer alloy that wears quicker and galls more. The poles themselves are fine and Marvin tool heads are good but, long term, the Jameson ferrules are worth the small additional initial cost.
 
i tell ya this
jameson made a copy of the marvin p4 pruner head
the only difference i saw was these stupid retainer rings on either side of the spring on the lower portion of the pin
once you lose them, its a pita
im sticking with jameson poles and marvin heads

i just got a complete marvin kit, with 2 poles and the pruner head and the saw head on seperate adapters,
i'll see how it does when i break it out
 
I got a Marvin 1 1/4" bypass pruner and a Corona 1 3/4" Bull bypass mounted solid on 8' Jameson yellow poles. I even have a brand new Silky 1 3/4" bypass pruner [remember those??] that I bought 2 yrs ago which I never used yet. What a piece of crap. I quess you get what you pay for when you order by snail mail.
I see Marvin has a new 1 3/4" bypass pruner out now, might be a good heavy pruner but I think its hard to beat the Corona.
The Jameson yellow poles are tough. I've had 32 feet verticle a few times with a Silky Hay. saw on top. Kinda like doing the Scottish highland games caber toss.

Willard :D
 
i dont cover pruners, but i sure as heck do the pole saw sections
only took 1 kid walking round too close to my truck to teach me a lesson
way not cool way to learn that leson
scabbards are good even for cheap guys like me
 
Is there anyone out there who doesn't scabbard their polesaw? I can't imagine an exposed blade - that's just asking to dull it or cut something/someone.
 
I don't, but I have a separate compartment for mine and the blade teeth aren't touching anything.
I scabbard all my chainsaws though, and nobody else around here does that.
 
I guy that I used to work with got cut once by his pole saw while using it up in the tree. He had hung it on a branch next to him, then bumped the branch by accident. It cut his forearm really badly as it fell past him. By the time he got to the ground, his whole shirt was soaked in blood. I think he got 20 or 30 stitches out of it. Ever since, I've always used a scabbard for my pole saw.
 
About 5 years ago I started turning the blade around backwards so the polesaw hook is on the same side as the blade teeth. This way you have the hook to help deflect the blade if it falls against you.
 
I remember a post you made about that before. I tried it on my pole saw, but kept finding that the hook would run into the branch and stop a push stroke about half way so I could never make a very long pull stroke. I meant to ask you what kind of pole saw head you use Brian. Maybe yours is shaped a little differently than mine to avoid this problem?
 
Just a standard Marvin polesaw head, Sean. I was looking through my old pictures and only found one of the polesaw, and that was from 2002 which is before I started turning the blade around. I think I picked it up from Nate or somebody else who mentioned it here.
 
I have been Jameson poles for years now and have the "adapted" corona bypass head. Always been a great combination until I then tried a marvin blade in place of the more expensive jameson.

Waste of money that was, wont cut anything bigger than 2" without jamming the blade. The supplier said the marvin stuff should be "fine, but its cheaper made".

Perhaps they just dont know how to make a blade, but I wont be buying any more of the stuff.
 
MasterBlaster said:
And that would not be someone's face!
Click to expand...
Exactly, and fingers too.
I remember one time pulling the Corona bypass out of the truck bed by the anvil, the rope handle caught on the tailgate and the knife squeezed my finger hard [luckily had gloves on]. Could have lost my finger there, that sure made me stand there for a moment and count my blessings .

Willard
 
Every single time that I've grabbed a pole pruner by the anvil I couldn't help but think just how stupid I was and how easily I could seriously injure myself.
 
Reading this thread, I see some blanket statements in favor of a certain brand or against another. But I disagree with these generalized sort of comments. It just isn't true that all Fred Marvin/Jameson/Fanno/whoever pruners are crap, or that they're all terrific either. Whenever a manufacturer makes more than 1 pruner head, it is usually because they're trying to pander to different audiences. Within a single brand, some are better than others. It's just not true that all Marvin pruner heads suck, or that all Jameson pruner heads are terrific.
 
I concur on scabbards, on everything. I don't use my pruner head (Corona) that often so it doesn't have a scabbard, but I have several scabbards for my pole saws, which are Jameson. I recently snapped two Marvin fiberglass poles; they are not that stiff. The foam-filled jamesons are great, but pricey. Never broken one. I scabbard my chainsaws and religiously guard my handsaws in their own scabbards, clean them often and even learned to file the Tri-edge saws to a somewhat near approximation of a reasonable facsimile' of a close guess of sharpness. Better than another $25!
 
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