bonner1040
Nick from Ohio
OP 10mm uSaver
bonner1040
Nick from Ohio
I rebuilt my rigging saver today. Originally I used 3 strand (6k MBS)and I have overloaded the hell out of it so I replaced it with handspliced 9/16's Husky Bull Rope (14k MBS). I am going to replace the Tenex (5k MBS) with 10mm TVP (10k mbs) which should give it a working load of over 1000lbs with a 10:1 safety factor.
By integrating the XRR it opens up all sorts of basket, equalized and other set-ups. The large ring is rated at over 25k MBS.
By integrating the XRR it opens up all sorts of basket, equalized and other set-ups. The large ring is rated at over 25k MBS.
flushcut
TreeHouser
Nice! How was it splicing in the Antal ring?
bonner1040
Nick from Ohio
Easy peazy. I had to tie a rope into the ring to pull and set the splice, cause sticking one finger in there was screaming 'tendon injury'.
The Husky braids are pretty easy it seems to me, however I havent spliced much else besides OP 10mm but its much harder to do.
The Husky braids are pretty easy it seems to me, however I havent spliced much else besides OP 10mm but its much harder to do.
flushcut
TreeHouser
Cool.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
Looks good. I think you'll like the 9/16ths SB better anyway 
bonner1040
Nick from Ohio
I replaced the 1/2" Tenex on the PintoRIG a 10mm TVP Prusik. THe MBS is 2x as high and its a harder material so less likely to pick.
It didnt come out as nice as I would have liked but it will work. It sucked cutting off the ABR splice but I just look at it as the last splice I ever paid to have done.
It didnt come out as nice as I would have liked but it will work. It sucked cutting off the ABR splice but I just look at it as the last splice I ever paid to have done.
rangerdanger
TreeHouser
Nice work man! Once you've been bit by the splicing bug it's hard too quit! I haven't done too much in awhile, kind of ran out of things we needed and money to make things I wanted haha. But it's about time to replace some things and I have a bit of money too indulge in a few small things, think its about time I called Luke up for an order!
bonner1040
Nick from Ohio
Dont call.. you start rambling then, "some of this, some of that, 10' of that..." without the "total" at the bottom its too easy to spend too much. Luke doesnt help by going, "Ok I will send that out to you!" without giving you a total...
rangerdanger
TreeHouser
Btw, how are you liking the rigging u saver? I've thought about one for awhile, I like how you can rig off the pulley, yet retrieve it from the ground. Those pinto rigs are bomber, I've got one spliced in a loopie and love it.
bonner1040
Nick from Ohio
I loved my old rigSAVER, made from the 3 strand. I pushed it way beyond its limits though and was starting to worry that I was going to break the body of it. Now that I have rebuilt it with heavier material I am psyched.
I have never needed to set it 'choked' and retrieve from the ground but I have set it in basket and retrieved it plenty of times, always with a simple overhand or figure 8 knot jamming the pulley. I was able to pull an overhand knot through the RIG once, in a test on the ground, which is why I added the XRR on the dead end. I figure hanging it in basket with the XRR tailing it will never slip the retrieval knot through both the RIG and the XRR. I also thought I could use all 3 pieces to equalize smaller rigging points above a 'big' crotch.
I will use basket configuration for most everything except blocking down wood, or rigging off the occasional piece where there isnt a crotch, which is when the choking config comes into play. I just blocked down an entire 20" black locust in 5-6' pieces on Saturday using the 3 strand body. THe hardware handled it fine but the tri-line looked haggard, which reinforced the decision to go to 9/16" Husky rope.
According to Tom a 7mm quicklink will slip the RIG but not the XRR, I though I had one that would work but if it flips screw part up it wont clear the RIG. I like the fact that retrieval is just with a knot, I dont need to carry anything extra etc and can deal with not retrieving from choked configuration. I might grab the QL that Tom has just so if I ever want to I can.
I have never needed to set it 'choked' and retrieve from the ground but I have set it in basket and retrieved it plenty of times, always with a simple overhand or figure 8 knot jamming the pulley. I was able to pull an overhand knot through the RIG once, in a test on the ground, which is why I added the XRR on the dead end. I figure hanging it in basket with the XRR tailing it will never slip the retrieval knot through both the RIG and the XRR. I also thought I could use all 3 pieces to equalize smaller rigging points above a 'big' crotch.
I will use basket configuration for most everything except blocking down wood, or rigging off the occasional piece where there isnt a crotch, which is when the choking config comes into play. I just blocked down an entire 20" black locust in 5-6' pieces on Saturday using the 3 strand body. THe hardware handled it fine but the tri-line looked haggard, which reinforced the decision to go to 9/16" Husky rope.
According to Tom a 7mm quicklink will slip the RIG but not the XRR, I though I had one that would work but if it flips screw part up it wont clear the RIG. I like the fact that retrieval is just with a knot, I dont need to carry anything extra etc and can deal with not retrieving from choked configuration. I might grab the QL that Tom has just so if I ever want to I can.
Maximalist
Treehouser
Cool! Nick, if I lived in the U.S., I would become your disciple ...
bonner1040
Nick from Ohio
I am not fit to teach splicing, I am just figuring it out.
Here is the rigSAVER set remotely from the ground
Here is the rigSAVER set remotely from the ground
bonner1040
Nick from Ohio
I rebuilt my PBRW (PorkBrick RopeWalker)... I had it done up with tied webbing but decided to reduce the bulk.
I had a scrapped 10mm OP splice so I did up the other side to make a foot loop. I didnt make any measurements or follow the directions, I just eye balled it all and it worked perfectly. It was actually kind of freeing to do the splice without measuring anything. I figured since it was just a footloop it didnt matter.
For the eye2eye connecting the Croll to the footloop I made sure to use spec splices incase it ever got used as a harness tether for life support or anything. As usual I forgot to insert the Croll into the eye until I was halfway through the tuck (everytime I have used a captive thimble or ring!!).
Overall it reduces the bulk and looks great. Two big advantages of using a small eye2eye as a footloop are it stows easier since it can hang flat and secondly you can remove it easily by just unclipping one side, you dont need to wrestle it on or off your boot yet it is tight as can be. I used a running lockstitch to group the cordura up and anchor it to the loop.
On a side note I also put some luxury touches on my climbing line. I dont prefer a large eye, but considering that a large eye is free and a tight eye wasnt available for some reason, beggars cant be choosers.
I had a scrapped 10mm OP splice so I did up the other side to make a foot loop. I didnt make any measurements or follow the directions, I just eye balled it all and it worked perfectly. It was actually kind of freeing to do the splice without measuring anything. I figured since it was just a footloop it didnt matter.
For the eye2eye connecting the Croll to the footloop I made sure to use spec splices incase it ever got used as a harness tether for life support or anything. As usual I forgot to insert the Croll into the eye until I was halfway through the tuck (everytime I have used a captive thimble or ring!!).
Overall it reduces the bulk and looks great. Two big advantages of using a small eye2eye as a footloop are it stows easier since it can hang flat and secondly you can remove it easily by just unclipping one side, you dont need to wrestle it on or off your boot yet it is tight as can be. I used a running lockstitch to group the cordura up and anchor it to the loop.
On a side note I also put some luxury touches on my climbing line. I dont prefer a large eye, but considering that a large eye is free and a tight eye wasnt available for some reason, beggars cant be choosers.
bonner1040
Nick from Ohio
mccauleytree
TreeHouser
Looks really good Nick!
bonner1040
Nick from Ohio
Thanks Mike!
flushcut
TreeHouser
Good stuff!
rangerdanger
TreeHouser
Part of the awesome fly eye and eye club now haha. Did these at Rich Hattier's place about a week ago, one of a few people with enough time on my hands too make something totally useless haha.
First time splicing fly, it's actually not that bad at all. People just make it out too be worse than it is.
First time splicing fly, it's actually not that bad at all. People just make it out too be worse than it is.
rangerdanger
TreeHouser
Nice job on that TVP btw Nick!
bonner1040
Nick from Ohio
Thanks
Adrian what are you using the Fly e2e's for? I read the instructions for that, it doesnt look fun. I like my fly but I wont be splicing any soon..
Looks good!
rangerdanger
TreeHouser
Thanks! There's really no use for them, I honestly did those just too say I did and join the unofficial 'fly eye and eye' club haha. I mean, you could use it as a bridge/hitch extender, but tenex works better for that. Really, there's not really a use for them.
And it's really not too bad, there are just some tricks Rich taught that make things go smoother.
And it's really not too bad, there are just some tricks Rich taught that make things go smoother.
Adam_P
TreeHouse WebMaster
The fly isn't hard just ugly. . Good job on those.
Here's a couple velocity eyes in a new lanyard.
. Good job on those. Here's a couple velocity eyes in a new lanyard.
NHlocal
TreeHouser
A little 10mm TVP... Got the consistent diameter the whole way through.
Nice pic.,
great job on that splice!
(THANKS! 
)Similar threads
