How'd it go today?

FireFighterZero said:
Looks normal to me.

Hard to believe you would catch hell for that south of the Mason Dixon.
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That was literally the first time. If I'm at work, I'm outfitted with knives. Off duty I just carry the pocket knives, and a smaller fixed blade. That light green Mora or a small Marttinni puukko.
 
FireFighterZero said:
Everybody go buy a bag of organic lentils.
Click to expand...

Done, sir.

Yo, I was at the dump with chips today after a hard rain, the truck chose not to dump. So I went back to my yard with a full truck, got under there with the tool bag and a head lamp and reading glasses, had the Mrs cycle the pto several times so I could see what was what. I tinkered for a while and eventually got it to work by making a small adjustment to the pto cable doohickey. I do all my own PM and oil changes etc but don't do much mechanic work. As I was under there lying on the wet pavement and reaching up into the ubiquitous area of poor accessibility, @FireFighterZero sage words came rushing into my addled, time-pressured brain:

FireFighterZero said:
We just like doing things ourselves......AKA....the hard way.
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:headbang: :dancin: :boogie: ;)
 
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Yo, re the 42" bar cutting issues, you folks with the 32" bars got me to thinking: We handle 99% of all the trees with 24" and 28" bars, no problemo. I bought the 42 inch years ago for the fatty that comes up every couple of years. Yeah well fook that stupidly long, unwieldy, shitty cutting piece of junk. Imma buy a 32' bar and then I should be good on those rare occasions when the 28'' comes up just shy. I'll bust out the 42 once every 7 years now, and charge an extra $2k if the tree is actually going to require the 42". Fook that bar.

Edit- Yes Rich, I flipped the bar, did not help
 
I run a 32" bar on my biggest saw. Have for years, never been an issue. Had to circle a few big hosses but still easier than trying to cut with a bigger bar. My ported 395 absolutely rips with a 32" bar and sharp skip chain.

I owned a Stihl 088 with a 42" bar for about a year. Sold it to someone here on the forum because it didn't cut any faster than my 395 with a 32". Think I used it on two jobs in that year I owned it.
 
Is it possible the bar needs to be dressed? A couple people mentioned sensitivity to burrs and stuff. I use an Oregon bar dresser(plastic jig with a file in it), but I'm 90% certain it's made by Pferd. They're ~$25 online. Pretty easy to use.

edit:
Code: 
https://www.amazon.com/OREGON-111439-Bar-Rail-Dresser/dp/B001SCRY1C/ref=sr_1_11?dchild=1&keywords=bar+dresser+chainsaw&qid=1597878856&sr=8-11&tag=duc0c-20

You can get Chinese made a good bit cheaper, but...
 
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I have one of those, never used it much. I could try it but I'd be more inclined, if going the dressing route, to use a dedicated rail grinder machine and something else to make sure the groove is sized correctly
 
Cory...you are royally pissed off at that 42" bar...store that sucker like you posited above...and charge that extra $2k when someone is stupid enough to have a tree that needs a 42" bar (I laughed a lot at that one!!).

Loved this:
Yeah well fook that stupidly long, unwieldy, shitty cutting piece of junk. Imma buy a 32' bar and then I should be good on those rare occasions when the 28'' comes up just shy. I'll bust out the 42 once every 7 years now, and charge an extra $2k if the tree is actually going to require the 42". Fook that bar.
Click to expand...
 
cory said:
Yo, re the 42" bar cutting issues, you folks with the 32" bars got me to thinking: We handle 99% of all the trees with 24" and 28" bars, no problemo. I bought the 42 inch years ago for the fatty that comes up every couple of years. Yeah well fook that stupidly long, unwieldy, shitty cutting piece of junk. Imma buy a 32' bar and then I should be good on those rare occasions when the 28'' comes up just shy. I'll bust out the 42 once every 7 years now, and charge an extra $2k if the tree is actually going to require the 42". Fook that bar.

Edit- Yes Rich, I flipped the bar, did not help
Click to expand...
Did you ever try full skip though? That would seem to be the only variable different than everyone else. If all else fails, keep some new loops of Stihl square skip handy with a few passes of a flat file on the depth gauges. And a new bar, they're only $130, and $40 per chain.
 
My favourite event today was watching the ROW crew across the street. First they topped a row of sticky nasty Cypress. Then it looked like HO there talked them into chipping some old piles. Must have had a newb start up the chipper and squeal the belt engaging the clutch.
I use the term "watched" figuratively, since the cloud of dust was of epic porportion, almost drowing out the sunlight.
I think a few ground squirrels were evicted today.
 
Did you try checking for visible warp with a straight edge?

Flush cutting big stumps can generate some real heat. I use extra oil dumped on the bar for that task. Being the helpful sort of guy I am, I interrupted a coworker’s ALAP cut to dump some oil on the bar. It legit sizzled.
Sometimes I’m a little rough on equipment, but any bar longer than 20” gets babied.
 
I had a hard time finishing a stump cut on a maple with a 32" aggressive full skip. The chain was still sharp afterward, but I think the problem was the rip style cut at the root flare coupled with 32" of bar meant that I had to really torque on the saw to make it cut through that spot.
 
Yeah I'm thinking full skip is going to be a bit too grabby in hard wood. But we'll see, full skip is on the new 572 i bought, just waiting on an outside dog for it
 
Should’ve stopped when I saw my throw out bearing was bad. I didn’t though. Pulled the pressure plate and friction plate. Those were fine according to the place that specializes in selling them. Put everything back together without the special piece of plastic, aka alignment tool. Finger feel and eyeball gauge works fine. Only had to swear a bunch while trying to hold the pressure plate in place trying to start the first bolt. Might have caught a quick nap while eyeballing things.
 
cory said:
Yeah I'm thinking full skip is going to be a bit too grabby in hard wood. But we'll see, full skip is on the new 572 i bought, just waiting on an outside dog for it
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I've been surprised with how aggressive of full skip I can bore cut with. I wouldn't worry about it. A light 2 strokes of a file in the DGs should still bore well. As for grabby stalling the saw, my stock 395 easily runs 32" full skip, and a stock 390 could run 42" full skip well enough if it had enough oil.

Oregon does make various reduced kick full skip, but only for .050
 
Jim, being the vegetarian nitwit that I am, I eat a shitload of lentils.
I'd love to munch on some of yours.
But, honestly, I doubt I can find them around here.

I just wanted you to know, it is not for lack of trying.
 
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