B, if I do these these trees I will chain them at the split union, and most likely cinch heavy bull line across the top. I my opinion, chaining the lower end is good, but you still create pulling forces on that low area. Cinching the top of the tree together doesn't make me bullet proof, at all, but absorbs some of that energy before being transferred down to the naughty area. Ive been known in the past to tie off one bad side of a split tree with heavy bulline line, set a block on the opposing side of the tree and run that bull line across and through the block. The run from the block to a truck and snug up. Not tighten up recklessly, but just draw the line tight and take a little stretch out of the line. It tends to somewhat draw the 2 tops together (as much as I choose to draw them) and eliminates a lot of movement in the tree when rigging. Same effect as cabling a tree.
Of course, I chock the truck tires. On one of the trees I could bomb one side out whole into the yard but wont. I feel that just entirely too much activity to put on that tree at once. Plus, I like to rig split trees by lowering off of several redirects through both sides of the crown. Not just to spread the weight, but to keep all the weight off of one side of the split. The work side of the split is getting downward forces from the roping, but the opposing side of the canopy gets inward forces towards the center if rigged properly.
Im not justifying doing ugly work, but I am trying to make clear Im not haphazardly up there butt hitching big shots out of the tree with my head up my butt.